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Author Topic: Acts just like switch is turned off.  (Read 1199 times)
snakemeister
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Posts: 90

Alabama


« on: October 06, 2013, 05:54:53 PM »

  My 1997 Valkyrie went totally dead while accelerating in fourth gear. When it went dead the lights nor anything else works like there's no battery in it.It acts just like the switch is turned off. Any ideas?
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salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2013, 06:17:59 PM »

I would start by looking at the ignition fuse. You may have lost your ground. As you eliminate things it will be easier to drill down on your issue. It's a bummer!  tickedoff
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

snakemeister
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Posts: 90

Alabama


« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2013, 06:49:37 PM »

 Is there a master relay that turns EVERYTHING off and on?
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Rio Wil
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Posts: 1357



« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2013, 06:54:23 PM »

Under the right side cover is a big relay with a 30A fuse mounted on it......
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2013, 07:18:00 PM »

Devils advocate here-Kill switch-the orange rocker thing?-just sayin. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5493


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2013, 07:44:59 PM »

Devils advocate here-Kill switch-the orange rocker thing?-just sayin. RIDE SAFE.

Kill switch won't kill the lights... :/

Perhaps the starter relay set or the main fuse?

Would pay to look at the battery cable connections (both ends of both) too.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
PhredValk
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2013, 09:52:08 PM »

If the main fusible link from the alternator went the lights etc would still pull from the battery. If it's the starter relay, the lights may not work, but the dash lights should still get power. I'd check the battery ground connection and the cable. If it's broken or corroded out all power would be cut out of the system.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2013, 01:18:13 PM »

Things that affect everything controlled by the ignition switch:

  Battery negative to chassis - wire/connections.
  Battery positive to starter relay - wire/connections.
  30A fuse at starter relay.
  Starter relay to ignition switch - red wire/connections.

Power starts to get divided into various circuits at the ignition switch, then again at the fuse block.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2013, 04:48:47 PM by Gryphon Rider » Logged
Thunderbolt
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Posts: 3726


Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2013, 04:19:05 PM »

30A main fuse and the connectors in which it is inserted.  If the fuse is not blown, the connector could be melted.
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snakemeister
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Posts: 90

Alabama


« Reply #9 on: October 07, 2013, 09:35:49 PM »

  Well;I went to pull the 30a fuse out of the starter relay and the fuse came apart leaving the fuse prongs in the holder.I tried to pull the prongs out and part of the holder came out with them.I got a new fuse and pushed everything back in as best I could.It started but after I rode it about 15 miles went dead again.I pulled the cover and pressed on the holder. It started just fine  and I rode on home.I'll looked at that holder tomorrow as it was dark when I got home.Looks like a loose connection that needs to be tightened up.
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Thunderbolt
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Posts: 3726


Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2013, 04:10:15 AM »

order this part and replace the connector.  Move the wire in the connector as mentioned to match the OEM configuration. 
Wire loom repair kit - Part # 32110-ML8-305

This repair kit is actually for a 84-87 Gold Wing.

In the kit you get the following parts.
 Connector Assy. Not like original but will work
 Solder
 Shrink tubing
 Switch cover. - MUCH larger than the original.

The old one covered up the 30 amp fuse for protection from the elements.

This repair kit has a much larger boot that covers almost all of the starter relay and the connector.

You have to move 1 wire in the connector to the correct slot. It is the big red one, main wire. Move it to the empty slot and everything plugs in as before..........
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Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2013, 05:22:23 AM »

Thunderbolt I just did a search at 2 parts sites for that part and get "number not found".

Maybe the number has changed I'll keep looking.
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Thunderbolt
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Posts: 3726


Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2013, 03:56:07 PM »

Hey Bone, had me worried when you posted your results.  I pasted the numbers in my search box and came up with some on Ebay etc.  Here is a link to a Gold Wing thread on that issue with the part no. in the posting.  I think it is the same part #.  I got it from Jeff Kozloski's generic parts page.  RJ has pictures.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/292030-starter-solenoid-repair-kit-gl1200.html
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Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2013, 04:33:55 PM »

Just got home. Thanks. Jeff K's page might be where I had seen the conversion post.
I had tried it on HDL's site and a local shop with a parts site with no luck.
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Karen
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Posts: 2786


Boston MA


« Reply #14 on: October 09, 2013, 08:42:47 AM »

Just for laughs, check/clean your battery terminal connections while you're in there...
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