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Author Topic: Rear brake Caliper  (Read 825 times)
Roadog
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Posts: 325


« on: October 07, 2013, 06:17:10 PM »

 '98 Tourer , Having difficulty pushing the rear caliper in to gain clearance for new pads.   The service manual says to push them toward the inside, but the pistons wont budge and there isnt much room for leverage.  no room for clamps, that's what I use on the car.  Short of cracking open the bleeder valve.  I have changed the rear pads before but I dont remember having this issue. Any advise would be helpful and thanks.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2013, 06:19:22 PM by Roadog » Logged
old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2013, 06:21:54 PM »

The pistons might need a good cleaning. Seems like a good deal of the "stuff" stirred up by the rear wheel finds its way to the brake caliper pistons. If you find out you do need to clean them up new O-rings are a VERY good idea. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2013, 06:58:55 PM »

Pull the top off the rear reservoir and remove a bit of the brake fluid. Leave the cover off and slip a screwdriver into the area between the rotor and pads to press the brakes open. I use an old brake shoe adjustment tool with that crooked end on it...works great. By spreading the brakes open at the pads, it will cause back pressure in the system and the reservoir level will rise so keep an eye on it so it doesn't run over. That way you won't have a plastic tube getting in the way running from the bleeder and allowing air into the system.
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Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2013, 07:06:17 PM »

Pull the top off the rear reservoir and remove a bit of the brake fluid. Leave the cover off and slip a screwdriver into the area between the rotor and pads to press the brakes open. I use an old brake shoe adjustment tool with that crooked end on it...works great. By spreading the brakes open at the pads, it will cause back pressure in the system and the reservoir level will rise so keep an eye on it so it doesn't run over. That way you won't have a plastic tube getting in the way running from the bleeder and allowing air into the system.

I highly recommend cleaning the pistons first.  Brake solvent and a small brush or shoelace (use it like dental floss) will take care of all the grunge that you don't want to push back in to the caliper body.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
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Bugslayer
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Lubbock, Texas


« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2013, 08:38:31 PM »

Pull the top off the rear reservoir and remove a bit of the brake fluid. Leave the cover off and slip a screwdriver into the area between the rotor and pads to press the brakes open. I use an old brake shoe adjustment tool with that crooked end on it...works great. By spreading the brakes open at the pads, it will cause back pressure in the system and the reservoir level will rise so keep an eye on it so it doesn't run over. That way you won't have a plastic tube getting in the way running from the bleeder and allowing air into the system.

I highly recommend cleaning the pistons first.  Brake solvent and a small brush or shoelace (use it like dental floss) will take care of all the grunge that you don't want to push back in to the caliper body.

I like the shoelace idea.... Good thinking.  cooldude
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2013, 04:32:20 AM »


Here's some pistons I cleaned, and then pushed out some more:



-Mike
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Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2013, 03:33:58 PM »

Pull the top off the rear reservoir and remove a bit of the brake fluid. Leave the cover off and slip a screwdriver into the area between the rotor and pads to press the brakes open. I use an old brake shoe adjustment tool with that crooked end on it...works great. By spreading the brakes open at the pads, it will cause back pressure in the system and the reservoir level will rise so keep an eye on it so it doesn't run over. That way you won't have a plastic tube getting in the way running from the bleeder and allowing air into the system.

I highly recommend cleaning the pistons first.  Brake solvent and a small brush or shoelace (use it like dental floss) will take care of all the grunge that you don't want to push back in to the caliper body.

I like the shoelace idea.... Good thinking.  cooldude

I can't take credit for it.  Someone else once mentioned it and it's such a good idea it just needs passing on!
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
Roadog
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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2013, 03:54:41 AM »

EXCELLENT suggestions,...Exactly what I was needing !  Thank you all !

Terry
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SpidyJ
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Murrells Inlet


« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2013, 06:11:02 AM »

I would remove the caliper and pull out the pistons.  If you can clean the pistons up then just replace the O rings.

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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
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