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Author Topic: truck stacks  (Read 2244 times)
valkdogg
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Posts: 8

Conneaut,OH


« on: July 16, 2009, 06:13:10 AM »

Could anyone that has installed the stacks give me some info on the experience? I really, really want to put a pair on my I/S. But a little nervous about  getting in over my head. How difficult to remove exhaust and put back on bike.
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Bruce J.
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Posts: 26


Cleveland, OH


« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2009, 08:27:21 AM »

I installed a set of the shorter extensions in place of the standard covers. They give the same look except for the joint in the middle. You don't have to remove the exhaust to install them.

If you're interested, I have a spare pair that I got cheap for a tryout. They have a worn spot from rubbing on the hard bag mount. I have a Standard so the worn spot wasn't hidden by my bags.
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Udo
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Posts: 105


Germany, Krefeld


« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2009, 11:28:45 AM »

It´s not too hard...removing the exhaust is no problem, i unbolt the headers, then remove the nuts under the rear footpegs, and the side is off, carefully, of course, nobody wants parts with scratches. Before or after that (i do it after removing the exhaust from the bike), you have to remove the chrome parts for the truck stacks. Next step is a bit tricky. You have to cut a slot in the truck stack with a angle grinder, or a jigsaw, sable saw, what ever. This slot is necessary for the holder at the exhaust, which connects under the rear footpegs. I use masking tape (a lot) and a few rags. I measure twice.....a second pair hands is helpful, to hold the stacks (that´s why we hafe a wife, i guess). A bit rust prevention on the edges of the slot, silver would be a nice colour. Next, you have to press the stack over the exhaust, slot in the right position. I use a ratchet tie down strap and a piece of wood. I found, using the airflo stacks, that i don´t need securing screws. The stacks fit tight enough. Now, you only have to mount the exhaust again, first under the footpeg (loose). I would use new copper gaskets (are the old gaskets really out of the head?). The bolts in the head need very little torque, 10 Nm is the limit. At last, the nuts under the footpeg.

You should be done....no, wait, the other side.....

After the first rides, you should retorque the header nuts, again, trust me, not more than 10 Nm (don´t ask).
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Spirited-6
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Posts: 2214


Nicholasville, Ky.


« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2009, 01:02:57 PM »

It´s not too hard...removing the exhaust is no problem, i unbolt the headers, then remove the nuts under the rear footpegs, and the side is off, carefully, of course, nobody wants parts with scratches. Before or after that (i do it after removing the exhaust from the bike), you have to remove the chrome parts for the truck stacks. Next step is a bit tricky. You have to cut a slot in the truck stack with a angle grinder, or a jigsaw, sable saw, what ever. This slot is necessary for the holder at the exhaust, which connects under the rear footpegs. I use masking tape (a lot) and a few rags. I measure twice.....a second pair hands is helpful, to hold the stacks (that´s why we hafe a wife, i guess). A bit rust prevention on the edges of the slot, silver would be a nice colour. Next, you have to press the stack over the exhaust, slot in the right position. I use a ratchet tie down strap and a piece of wood. I found, using the airflo stacks, that i don´t need securing screws. The stacks fit tight enough. Now, you only have to mount the exhaust again, first under the footpeg (loose). I would use new copper gaskets (are the old gaskets really out of the head?). The bolts in the head need very little torque, 10 Nm is the limit. At last, the nuts under the footpeg.

You should be done....no, wait, the other side.....

After the first rides, you should retorque the header nuts, again, trust me, not more than 10 Nm (don´t ask).
I read your POST with great intrest and was following the "dis- structions" and then relized , I don`t speak GERMAN. Damn it I`m KIDDING. Great post. cooldude
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Spirited-6
Six Packer
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Posts: 38


« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2009, 03:31:29 AM »

I'll add one thing to the instructions given.  That is to use some liquid soap on the muffler cans so that you get some slideability to the stacks.  The soap doesn't hurt a thing.  Believe me I found out about this the hard way
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Udo
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Posts: 105


Germany, Krefeld


« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2009, 04:11:50 AM »


[/quote] I read your POST with great intrest and was following the "dis- structions" and then relized , I don`t speak GERMAN. Damn it I`m KIDDING. Great post. cooldude
[/quote]

Umm....my friends tell me, my English is as good as my German....now, what do they mean... :-)
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fudgie
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2009, 01:26:06 PM »

Use a grinder to get all the old ruff welds off. If your gonna drill the baffles, now is a time to do it. Mine are drilled and then I also cut 3" off the length of muffler of. Nice sound now. I used vasoline and pile drived the exhaust on. It really didn't take much to drive it onto the stacks. Don't use to much vasoline, it smelled for 1,000 miles and ran onto the pipes.
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BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2009, 01:44:09 PM »

Is there anything else besides soap or vasoline that'll work?  Would an anti-seaze grease work....or would it burn, smoke and stink too? 

There must be something that won't smoke and stink for mile after mile. 
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Trynt
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Posts: 694


So. Cen. Minnesota


« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2009, 02:16:53 PM »

As per MarkT's advice I used WD40.
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Larry
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Posts: 263


Northeastern BC, Canada


« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2009, 04:15:55 PM »

I've been thinking about stacks too but also thinking down the road to do the glass pack mod. The problem is with this mod you have to cut a slot in this nice beautiful stack for those exhaust hanger brackets. For the glass pack mod you don't cut a slot, you just drill a couple holes so you can put in bolts to hang the new glass pack modded system. Why not grind off those hangers and hammer a dent in the unmodded exhaust back to the place where the hangers were so can so you can slide the truck stack on with bolts in it. Then you don't have this big slot in the truck stack to contend with and when your ready for the glass pack your stacks are already to go.  coolsmiley
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PharmBoy
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Posts: 1058


Lawton, Ok


« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2009, 06:28:50 PM »

About 25-30% Dawn Concentrate dish washing liquid in water applied liberally to both the inside of the stack and the outside of the muffler with a sponge will let the stack slide down over the muffler without much of a fuss.  That stuff is really slick and there is no smell when you fire the engine up...JTL   cooldude
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