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Author Topic: Steering Stem Bearings and Tool  (Read 1401 times)
ptgb
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Posts: 1144


Youngstown, OH


« on: November 18, 2013, 08:42:16 PM »


Pulled the 2001 Standard (w/hardbags) apart last weekend.





Going to do a total "chrome out" of this Valk, with triple tree, forks, brakes, controls, master cylinders, etc, etc, etc. But I digress...

First, a tip. For pulling the races out of the neck. I used a long flat screwdriver to tap out the top one. Pretty easy. Had much more difficulty with the lower one, as there is not enough "lip" to get at it from the top of the neck.

Found this $10, "seal puller" at O'Reilly's



Just finagle it up above the race from the bottom and tap the handle of it with a rubber mallet. Worked perfect; the race came right out.


Anyway, ordered new bearings for the chrome triple tree. I am looking for the Steering Stem Socket to borrow, or instructions on making my own out of a regular socket. Any assistance with this would be appreciated, thanks.
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Bruce J.
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Posts: 26


Cleveland, OH


« Reply #1 on: November 19, 2013, 06:50:38 AM »

Read down in this link to see a photo of the home made socket, http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,12397.0.html%20%28http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,12397.0.html%29
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15238


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2013, 08:08:55 AM »

Yep, the picture in the link shows my homemade socket. Just don't try cutting that socket with a hacksaw, you won't even scratch it....that's a socket for an impact wrench. I had to use my die grinder to make the cuts. I just set the socket on the notched nut it's to be used on, marked where I needed the cuts and went with it. Make the vertical cuts first, then to remove the portion between the teeth you come in horizontally. When most is removed, use a grinder to dress it up better. I didn't spend much time "dressing" as you can tell by the pic, but it works fine. Got the socket at Harbor Freight.  cooldude

Additional thought: Daryl from Xf6 clued me in on this to remove the bottom neck race. It's an adjustable pry bar, you adjust the angle of the curved neck by loosening a nut on the back side. Set it to almost straight and slip into the neck from above. It will catch on the top edge of the bottom race and all you have to do is give it a couple good whacks 180 degrees apart and it falls out. The bar is hardened steel and the moveable part locks in place via teeth in the mating surfaces. You're not going to hurt it.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-8-in-locking-flex-pry-bar/p-00943295000P?prdNo=26&blockNo=26&blockType=G26
« Last Edit: November 19, 2013, 08:16:47 AM by John Schmidt » Logged

Novavalker
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Posts: 625


99 Interstate/2017 Goldwing


« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2013, 07:58:25 PM »



I have the OEM socket. The problem is removing the lower race.
 
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“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
John Schmidt
Member
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Posts: 15238


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2013, 08:47:20 AM »



I have the OEM socket. The problem is removing the lower race.
 

Nova, see my link in the post just above yours. Took at least 90 seconds to remove the lower race with the tool mentioned.
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olddog1946
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Posts: 1830


Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2013, 09:46:36 AM »

I have a socket and if you still need one, send me a note/IM with your address and I'll send it out to ya.
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mmurffy03
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Posts: 791


03 standard

toms river new jersey


« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2013, 02:45:39 PM »

I just had a stock set of trees polished by a pro polish shop look like chrome now was going to do a chrome but had worries about cracking when tightening the pinch bolts hope you don't have that issue I sold my bike and im waiting for the transport company to pick it up and ship to Poland this week I still have the trees and a new set of all balls bearings if anybody wants them they are in the classified page
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