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Author Topic: idle adjust fell out  (Read 2308 times)
Jim Pittsburgh
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Posts: 9


« on: July 19, 2009, 06:10:12 PM »

reassembling the bike after the "small" accident. Finally got the tank back and the new petcock :-) (see previous post)...
I crank it over... once I got gas through the system, it would start fine with the choke on and rev perfectly (even with choke off)
BUT it would not hold an idle....it would just die once the trottle was released. Of course I thought   ahhhh idle adjustment ...
I reach down and I touched the idle adjustment knob and the whole plastic knob, spring etc fell out...  gee
glad I had it all buttoned up :-)  Yanked the freshly mounted new pod .. and I've found the knob, screw, spring and a little washer.... but despite
looking at every 'fishe" I could find... I can not tell where the darn thing goes.. nor if the washer is a part of it, or goes on
top or the bottom of the spring...

sorry, I've looked and looked and can not tell where the darn thing goes nor its proper assembly order....  THis is
just a "re-insert" and go type of thing isn't it?

Bike ran perfect before the accident, so a real mystery how this happened... a picture would really help, or if you know of a web address
with detail directions... it would be appreciated.... thankss 
Jim
really appreciate the help, esp since I've not been around in a while!
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2009, 08:17:14 PM »

I've an Interstate and it's very difficult to see what's going on in there, but I can say after looking, that the washer is part of the assembly and it goes between the spring and the thumb nut (screw). That thingy screws upon a threaded shaft but that's all I could see. Ought not be to difficult to find the threaded shaft. it's there between the #1 and #3 carburetors and is pointed downward. It's in there quite a way so you have to look in there pretty good.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Kingbee
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Posts: 486


VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2009, 08:41:36 PM »

Darn Interstate pods, I tried to get a PIC, but this is all I could get.  Between the first & 2nd carbs on the right side



It screws into a threaded hole in a flat piece.  It's hard to get started (don't ask)

It needs to be perfectly aligned & enough upward pressure to overcome the spring.

Number 8 in link below

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148594&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2000&fveh=3474




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1999 Interstate
2000 Interstate
2004 Rune
2012 Goldwing w/airbag (and I don't mean Queenbee)
http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/weathersticker/bigwx_cond/language/www/US/IL/Glenview.gif
Jim Pittsburgh
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Posts: 9


« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2009, 05:32:24 AM »

I'm having a hard time seeing exactly where it threads in... I thought it was on the top ...  thanks so much for taking the time to take that pic and answer my email. sincerley appreciated...

Can anyone please provide a diagram or something ...
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2009, 08:30:48 AM »

Kingbee cleared up one thing. It's the complete screw assembly. Not as  thought (a nut)

Get a small mirror and flashlight and look carefully. You should be able to find where it threads in.  It's not going to be like a nut but rather a hole with threads that you probably will not be able to see.

Mirror and flashlight. That will be the way.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Jim Pittsburgh
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Posts: 9


« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2009, 01:52:06 PM »

Thanks to all...   washer between knob and spring

and as I understand it, it goes UP .....I just wish I knew exactly where it screws in.. I'll find it... mirror is a good idea!

As you screw it in, does that increase or decrease the idle?
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BlueValk
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Posts: 108


Albuquerque, NM


WWW
« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2009, 03:15:00 PM »

Here are a couple more pictures.  Maybe they will help.  On the second picture, the screw is just above and left of the "eng3" spark plug wire.  Idle is increased when the screw is turned in further. Good Luck!

P.S.  I think that you can right click and hit "view image" and then blow it up for a more clear view.



« Last Edit: July 20, 2009, 03:16:43 PM by BlueValk » Logged
ricoman
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Posts: 1888


Sarasota, FL


« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2009, 01:17:14 AM »

2nd week I owned my Valk, I unscrewed the idle and out she fell.
The screw goes in at a bit of an angle (not vertical) so take the time (with mirror) to find the hole.
The screw assembly has the washer on the nut end next to the plastic knob and the spring goes over the screw.
The hex head of the screw fits into the hex inside the plastic knob. The screw will not go into the threaded  part of the adjustment with the linkage to the carbs just by holding the knob. The screw will fall out of the plastic knob every time you try to get it started. Every time-and you will not be pleased with the language you use when it happens the 3rd or 4th time! You will also look all over for the washer and spring, only to find them just out of finger reach behind the intake somewhere.
You can apply a dab of glue inside the plastic knob to hold the screw in place (that idea from a local Valk owner who was as dumb as I) or you can balance the plastic knob with the screw in place on the end of a long pair of 90 degree bent needle nose pliers (as I did), hold it up to the piece it threads into and gently get it started being very careful so as not to strip the threads. Once started remove the pliers and finish by turning the knob. When you are through you will have earned a cold one. Set the idle at 900 +/-100 rpm.
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take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
Kingbee
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Posts: 486


VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2009, 05:22:55 AM »

Pulling that center intake & spark plug lead also makes it a lot easier....

When you do get it in, screwing in increases the idle
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1999 Interstate
2000 Interstate
2004 Rune
2012 Goldwing w/airbag (and I don't mean Queenbee)
http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/weathersticker/bigwx_cond/language/www/US/IL/Glenview.gif
Jim Pittsburgh
Member
*****
Posts: 9


« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2009, 05:57:52 AM »

Any type of seal needed at the bottom if I pull the runner? I checked the fiche and was relieved to see that they are bolts holding it are not studs up from the cylinder head...

Thanks for all of your help and ideas....   just need longer, more nimble fingers ... the old beat up ones I have arn't cutting it:-)  My wife came out the garage last night to see what I was doing... she took one look and started laughing so hard she had tears in her eyes..  Since I'm still recovering from the accident /broken leg, there's no possiblility of kneeling or squating... so the best positions are either laying over the seat/ tank  head up side down or hunched up left leg straight out , head and shoulders kinda parallel to the ground ... hahahahahahahaahahah
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Udo
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Posts: 105


Germany, Krefeld


« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2009, 11:00:39 AM »

Yup, there are o-rings between the intakes and the head.

Edit: The size is #123. Viton-B would be a good material, it´s gas and heat resistant. You can get the o-rings from redeye-tech (E-Bay), he´s a good guy....
« Last Edit: July 21, 2009, 11:06:33 AM by Udo » Logged

Jim Pittsburgh
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Posts: 9


« Reply #11 on: July 23, 2009, 08:58:13 AM »

all back together and running perfectly, at least it did in the garage until the sun comes out later this week here in " the City of Champions". Leg should be strong enough to get it up off the kick stand by then :-)

THANK YOU to everyone for your assistance. Could not have done it without you...
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