Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 23, 2025, 05:33:57 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Exhaust or Oil Blowby at Intake Tube  (Read 1893 times)
atxvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 12


« on: December 29, 2013, 06:00:27 PM »

During a nice ride yesterday thru the Texas Hill Country, I noticed a dark brown and sticky residue below the intake tube above the head. My suspicion is a blown gasket in that joint, right/ wrong? But I wouldn't have thought that there was enough pressure there to cause this result?

Anybody got any advice for me about this issue? What is the cause?

As always, everyone out there offering assistance,thank you very much. This is a tremendous resource for us wrencher wanna be's.

ps- How do you I post a picture?
Logged
Disco
Member
*****
Posts: 4899


Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

Republic of Texas


« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2013, 06:16:17 PM »

Almost certainly the intake o-rings - an easy repair.  Part 4 in the picture below.



Part number and shopping cart here:  http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2552020&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2000&fveh=132670

Or, get replacements from Red Eye here:  http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/414983/carb-intake-seal-kits
Logged

2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT
78 CB550K
71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper


VRCC 27,916                   IBA 44,783
IamGCW
Member
*****
Posts: 1115


727 hood


« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2013, 06:20:30 PM »

+1 Intake O rings.  Easy repair.  Be sure to clean off the residue when you change them.

Gil
Logged

Gil
uıɐƃɐ ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu ןן,ı
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2013, 06:26:06 PM »


I just changed out my intake runner o-rings for the same reason...

I had my gas tank off anyway: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,63259.0.html

With the gas tank off, you can remove the one bolt that holds the airbox in place,
and remove all the intake runner bolts, then the whole airbox/carburetor/intake-runner assembly
is just free floating there above the motor. It is easy to move it around, raise it a little, and
the runners come out easy... I remove one at a time... its also a good time to check the vacuum
caps on the backs of the runners, I just changed all mine... five in all if you're de-smogged...

-Mike
Logged

John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15238


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2013, 07:44:20 PM »

Easy fix as stated. To do it, just remove all six bolts on one side holding down the chromed intake runners, and loosen them on the other side of the engine. That lets you raise the carb ass'y. enough to work on it without removing anything else. At the top of those runners you'll see the hose clamp, loosen that enough to raise it above its mounting point. Then simply grab the bottom of the intake runner and pull out on the bottom. It will pop out of the tube. Remove the old o-ring, clean out the groove, then I use a couple dabs of grease to hold the new one in place and press it in the groove, I only remove/replace one runner at a time. When it comes to replacing the runners, I spray a bit of regular alcohol on the top and it will slip right in with a little pressure at the bottom. Sort of a pushing motion inward. Do this when reinstalling the intakes: Whenever you're trying to move rubber and metal against each other, spray it with some alky. It makes it real slick and evaporates without leaving any residue. And it's cheaper than WD40, especially if you swipe it from your wife's makeup cabinet.

When done with one side, start each of the six bolts about halfway and do the same procedure to the other side. Don't torque them down when done, just real snug. Good luck.
Logged

atxvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 12


« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2013, 08:03:55 AM »

Thank you for the great feedback, that is a tremendous help. Is this something needing immediate attention, i.e., is it hurting anything like this? I am checking to see if my local shop has things rings, if not i will pursue the web. Thanks for the links!

How do I post photos on this site? I see the photo link above, is this  a copy and paste thing?
Logged
0leman
Member
*****
Posts: 2304


Klamath Falls, Or


« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2013, 08:47:21 AM »

ATX, not sure about how others, but you probably can wait till you get the new O-Rings from the web if you don't want to deal with local shops (like most of us).   This seems to happen to most of the Valks as they get more miles on them.  As John says above you don't have to remove the tank.  I did all 6 of mine in about an hour (I am kind of slow).  And don't over tighten the lower bolts.
Logged

2006 Shadow Spirit 1100 gone but not forgotten
1999 Valkryie  I/S  Green/Silver
Daniel Meyer
Member
*****
Posts: 5493


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2013, 08:49:38 AM »

Thank you for the great feedback, that is a tremendous help. Is this something needing immediate attention, i.e., is it hurting anything like this? I am checking to see if my local shop has things rings, if not i will pursue the web. Thanks for the links!

How do I post photos on this site? I see the photo link above, is this  a copy and paste thing?

Immediate attention? No....mines been doing it for 50,000 miles (on my third set of o-rings).
Logged

CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2013, 08:52:21 AM »


you don't have to remove the tank.

You absolutely don't have to remove the tank. I think it is handy how the whole carb/airbox/intake-runner
assembly comes loose if you remove that one airbox bolt in addition to the intake runner bolts...

-Mike
Logged

Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2013, 09:04:09 AM »

The biggest danger is letting something drop down into the intake port.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2013, 09:21:46 AM »

The biggest danger is letting something drop down into the intake port.

***

I backed out one of the screws on one of the clamps all the way without meaning to.

When I went to put it back on, I noticed... no nut on the back  Shocked ...

But it was lying there on the top of the motor.

I stuffed a wad of Bounty in each intake port for most of the duration that I had the
runners off, but the clamps were down around the runners when I popped the runners off...
anywho... it was a scary thought...

-Mike
Logged

John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15238


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2013, 09:23:47 AM »

The biggest danger is letting something drop down into the intake port.

***
Absolutely. Before I start any job that involves removing the intakes, I have a half dozen paper towels handy to stuff in the intakes in the head. Usually takes only a half sheet. Reminds me of a friend once that used a skimpy piece of paper towel and for some insane reason decided he needed to turn the engine over. Guess where two of the paper towels went. Wasn't on a Valk engine, and he was able to fish the majority of it out. It was then I decided to let him do his own work, by himself.  crazy2
Logged

Bighead
Member
*****
Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #12 on: December 30, 2013, 09:30:25 AM »

 tickedoff tickedoff tickedoff tickedoff
 2funny 2funny 2funny 2funny
Logged

1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #13 on: December 30, 2013, 01:02:36 PM »

As Disco pointed out above, Rich at Redeyevwill take good care of you.
http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/414983/carb-intake-seal-kits
Replace the intake Orings is an easy job. Don't over torque those bolts.  Smiley
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

IamGCW
Member
*****
Posts: 1115


727 hood


« Reply #14 on: December 30, 2013, 01:39:22 PM »

As Disco pointed out above, Rich at Redeyevwill take good care of you.
http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/414983/carb-intake-seal-kits
Replace the intake Orings is an easy job. Don't over torque those bolts.  Smiley


+1 on Redeye.  You can also find posts in this forum of the correct size/type O ring if you want to find them locally. 

Gil
Logged

Gil
uıɐƃɐ ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu ןן,ı
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2013, 01:45:29 PM »

As Disco pointed out above, Rich at Redeyevwill take good care of you.
http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/414983/carb-intake-seal-kits
Replace the intake Orings is an easy job. Don't over torque those bolts.  Smiley


+1 on Redeye.  You can also find posts in this forum of the correct size/type O ring if you want to find them locally. 

Gil


I just got the OEM ones again from HDL... I did it once before, about 50,000 miles ago...

-Mike
Logged

Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: