Bent Connecting Rods

[svocarl]

I recently removed my valkyrie engine for replacement of the idle gear because of missing teeth.  It previously had a hydraulic lock before I purchased the bike. Is it necessary/beneficial to check the connecting rods? If so, how should this be done.  I only have 5 hours on the bike since I purchased it and that was to bring the bike home.  It seemed to run fine, but with lack of experience I'm not sure what is normal. Thanks for any help.

[Michvalk]

I'm no great authority, but, I have never heard of a bent rod from hydrolock

[Ricky-D]

If it runs fine, everything is normal.

Actually, maybe a little better than normal.

***

[Patrick]

Its not hard to bend a rod from a fuel lock, but, I've not heard of it happening with the Valk.

[salty1]

Its not hard to bend a rod from a fuel lock, but, I've not heard of it happening with the Valk.

+1    I have not heard of a bent rod(s) from a hydrolock on a Valk either. A Concours KAW, yes.

[mmurffy03]

if I had to guess I would think the gear is way weaker than a rod and would most likely fail first that is a guess only

[Attic Rat]

I have one in the shop right now with a bent rod from a hydro lock. The only way to check the rods is to split the case and you don't want to do that unless you have too. I will be putting a crank kit in this bike later in January.

[Wheelhead]

Hi,

This is my first post. I am a 62 year old guy near Philly in Jersey. Just got a Valk and really like it. Also own a Sportster 94.

Slightly away from the bent rod subject but still about hydrolock being this hydrolock is quite a concern and the precautions thereof. After looking at the precautions like changing the petcock, buying a new petcock, rebuilding, adding a filter, automatic electric fuel switch etc, I was wondering if anyone tried or experimented with the notion of a reduced battery charge or two-stage power to the starter via a transformer installed on the battery with an A/B switch to give a lower charge purposely to the starter and then the normal power to the starter. (Like an almost dead battery)

When it sits for a while or to test for hydrolock the voltage/amperage can be selected (from previous electric power adjustment of just barely turning the engine) just to turn the Valkyrie engine over slowly by switching the A/B switch on a transformer on/near the battery but this power being not enough power to damage the gearing/starter where it would just stop turning on a hydro-locked cylinder. Just a thought. It stops turning under low amperage to the starter then you pull the plugs to look for gas.

I have really been enjoying the wealth of the information on this site and like I said I find the Valk hilarious fun to ride. Can't wait till it warms up here in Jersey.

Phil

[Alien]

Welcome Phil, and that sounds like a pretty good idea.  Might save some folks a lot of work.

[Patrick]

I have one in the shop right now with a bent rod from a hydro lock. The only way to check the rods is to split the case and you don't want to do that unless you have too. I will be putting a crank kit in this bike later in January.

Hmmm, Just goes to show, STUFF happens. That is the first I've heard of.

[jmann]

Hi,

This is my first post. I am a 62 year old guy near Philly in Jersey. Just got a Valk and really like it. Also own a Sportster 94.

Slightly away from the bent rod subject but still about hydrolock being this hydrolock is quite a concern and the precautions thereof. After looking at the precautions like changing the petcock, buying a new petcock, rebuilding, adding a filter, automatic electric fuel switch etc, I was wondering if anyone tried or experimented with the notion of a reduced battery charge or two-stage power to the starter via a transformer installed on the battery with an A/B switch to give a lower charge purposely to the starter and then the normal power to the starter. (Like an almost dead battery)

When it sits for a while or to test for hydrolock the voltage/amperage can be selected (from previous electric power adjustment of just barely turning the engine) just to turn the Valkyrie engine over slowly by switching the A/B switch on a transformer on/near the battery but this power being not enough power to damage the gearing/starter where it would just stop turning on a hydro-locked cylinder. Just a thought. It stops turning under low amperage to the starter then you pull the plugs to look for gas.

I have really been enjoying the wealth of the information on this site and like I said I find the Valk hilarious fun to ride. Can't wait till it warms up here in Jersey.

Phil

Instead of going to all that trouble why not just get in the habit of when starting your bike just TAP the start button initially. If it turns your good if it doesn't then pull the plugs. I think the best bang for the buck is the Dan Marc but in lieu of that the TAP method works pretty well and it's free.

[BonS]

I found this video on a quick test for bent rods. The principal shown here applies to our bikes just like the Concours. Our plugs aren't on the top of the cylinder though so, unfortunately, you'll have to remove the heads to do this test and use a depth gauge that spans the top of the cylinder bore. There is a lot more that can be checked and measured if the cases are split but this is great first check but only a fraction of the work.

Concours ZG1000 hydrolock rod test	powered by Aeva

[salty1]

Thanks for sharing BonS! Very informative. 

[svocarl]

         Thanks for all the replies. I don't know what to do . Sounds like a lot of poeple fix the geartrain and go. It seems like if it had a rod bent it would be rough is this true or would you not be able to tell.  Would love to know how atticrat found the bent rod ,thanks just trying to fix it rite.

[Wheelhead]

Hi,

This is my first post. I am a 62 year old guy near Philly in Jersey. Just got a Valk and really like it. Also own a Sportster 94.

Slightly away from the bent rod subject but still about hydrolock being this hydrolock is quite a concern and the precautions thereof. After looking at the precautions like changing the petcock, buying a new petcock, rebuilding, adding a filter, automatic electric fuel switch etc, I was wondering if anyone tried or experimented with the notion of a reduced battery charge or two-stage power to the starter via a transformer installed on the battery with an A/B switch to give a lower charge purposely to the starter and then the normal power to the starter. (Like an almost dead battery)

When it sits for a while or to test for hydrolock the voltage/amperage can be selected (from previous electric power adjustment of just barely turning the engine) just to turn the Valkyrie engine over slowly by switching the A/B switch on a transformer on/near the battery but this power being not enough power to damage the gearing/starter where it would just stop turning on a hydro-locked cylinder. Just a thought. It stops turning under low amperage to the starter then you pull the plugs to look for gas.

I have really been enjoying the wealth of the information on this site and like I said I find the Valk hilarious fun to ride. Can't wait till it warms up here in Jersey.

Phil

Instead of going to all that trouble why not just get in the habit of when starting your bike just TAP the start button initially. If it turns your good if it doesn't then pull the plugs. I think the best bang for the buck is the Dan Marc but in lieu of that the TAP method works pretty well and it's free.

Yeap. Thanks. I will try that. Not to hijack the thread in a different direction: I will just say this though,  I am toying with the idea too and looking at products available of installing another, smaller,  low amperage, 2nd battery.  The smaller motorcycle battery would spin it slower with less power for a hydrolock check. Could be done cheap too. Marine switches are like 30 dollars with high amperage capability. Some are round with a dial  of battery1, battery2, both and 'off'. Going out to start mine now. In the meantime in this winter I intend to start it every day,

[9Ball]

In the meantime in this winter I intend to start it every day,

Which will definitely do more harm than good.  Best advice is to winterize (stabilized fuel and battery tender), cover the bike with a breathable cover, and leave it alone until you can actually ride the bike.  Starting and running in the garage will not drive off condensation and can lead to discoloration of the factory double wall pipes.  Starting a cold bike is where your engine's metal components experience the most wear.

[svocarl]

              I think I might have a way to check the rods. I will use a borescope to go in the spark plug holes. Should be able to see how deep the piston goes in the bore and at T.D.C. to compare to each other . This should give peice of mind without major surgury.