Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 23, 2025, 05:32:41 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: re jetting carbs  (Read 1650 times)
Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« on: January 04, 2014, 10:54:05 AM »

Im getting ready to pull my carbs for a cleaning and new parts. Floats, float needles, and jets. Im going up to #38 slows and wondering what I should go up to for the mains. I have truck stacks with the back baffle completly cut out. I was thinking maybe #105.
Logged

Patrick
Member
*****
Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2014, 11:37:02 AM »

The 35 lows do tend to make the engine run a tad lean, but, I still like them. However, the original highs are 100s. These tend to run just a tad rich. Honda got them right.
Logged
salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2014, 12:06:59 PM »

I agree that the high end is fine, leave 100s. FWIW
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2014, 12:23:09 PM »

So maybe just go up to #38 for the slows and leave the mains at 100
Logged

John Schmidt
Member
*****
Posts: 15238


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2014, 01:11:33 PM »

So maybe just go up to #38 for the slows and leave the mains at 100
That's what I did a few years back, works fine.....for me anyway. They also tend to not clog up from the lousy ethanol gas they're now shoving down our throats.
Logged

Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2014, 01:27:28 PM »

That is what ill do then. May even replace my 100's with new 100's. Just so I know they are new
Logged

Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2014, 02:02:43 PM »

That's some silly stuff!

None of those items are maintenance items.

And you want to remove the carburetors also.

Anything you propose to do  can be done without removing the carburetors.

There are many pitfalls that may be encountered when you remove the carburetors

and even more if you disassemble the rack.

It's never recommended to remove the carburetors for maintenance that is not needed.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13511


South Jersey


« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2014, 02:16:08 PM »

with no airbox mods 35 pj are fine. they can be opened up to 4 turns out. if u need more than that then go to 38s. 38s just waste mpg.
this is basic carb tunning. read factorypro.com tech site on carb tunning
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2014, 02:40:46 PM »

Im having a 5th gear acceleration problem. Bike sat for 3 years. Had the carbs cleaned and the guy that did it said a few floats seemed like they were not floting right and said the float needles were ok but would recommend replacing them. He said run it awhile to see if it cleared up. Well it all cleared up except in 5th gear. Feels like it is starving for fuel, running around 3500 rpm in 5th and give it full throttle it shakes and slowly climbs in speed. Thats why I want to pull the carbs and replace parts. I feel it is in the carbs unless im missing something somewhere.
Logged

salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2014, 03:09:05 PM »

Im having a 5th gear acceleration problem. Bike sat for 3 years. Had the carbs cleaned and the guy that did it said a few floats seemed like they were not floting right and said the float needles were ok but would recommend replacing them. He said run it awhile to see if it cleared up. Well it all cleared up except in 5th gear. Feels like it is starving for fuel, running around 3500 rpm in 5th and give it full throttle it shakes and slowly climbs in speed. Thats why I want to pull the carbs and replace parts. I feel it is in the carbs unless im missing something somewhere.
I wouldn't change the high speed jets until I had chance to inspect them. Sounds like they could be dirty too. Also, could be your airfilter needs to changed. Is there any other possibility of a gas restriction, vent line or petcock. Any vacuum leaks? My $0.02.
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Bighead
Member
*****
Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2014, 03:09:51 PM »

Sounds as if it is fuel starved could be air though.
Logged

1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Dorkman
Member
*****
Posts: 186


San Carlos, CA


« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2014, 03:10:35 PM »

Looks like you are part way there if carb cleaning guy did some work.  Don't know what he did, but how about simple stuff first, like running a bottle of Techron or Seafoam through the system.  Perhaps there is a dirty aftermarket fuel filter in the line, a crimp, or some other blockage.  Could be a lot of scum throughout the fuel system from sitting too long.
Logged
salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2014, 03:18:51 PM »

Make sure the air intakes are solidly attached to the airfilter tubes. Were the carbs synchronized after they were cleaned? The latter probably wouldn't affect high end performance.
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2014, 03:30:03 PM »

Have ran several cans of seafoam and berrymans through. The guy that cleaned them used an ultrasonic cleaner. What gets me is it runs perfect until I hit 5th gear. I might pull the tank and air box and replace vacuum hoses frst. Filter was replaced last year, might as well throw a new one in while im at it. Ill also check the vent line. Maybe it is not venting enough.
Logged

Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2014, 03:37:31 PM »

Yes I did sync the carbs recently, this past summer.
Logged

Patrick
Member
*****
Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2014, 05:23:08 PM »

I can't remember anyone having high jet issues, but, I can't remember what I had for breakfast.
You problem sure sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Thats where I'd recommend looking.
But, There was a recent similar problem [ can't remember who had it though] in which the new owner found that the vacuum lines were all screwed up being improperly routed and connected.
Logged
Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2014, 05:36:04 PM »

You might be onto something there.  cooldude  never thought of that. So for now ill leave the carbs alone and replace the vacuum lines. I have a hard time believing the carbs are the problem since it runs perfect until 5th gear, but I had myself convinced that is the problem. Ill check it out here in the next couple weeks. Could be just a bunch of cracked hoses. Had one this fall that I replaced already.
Logged

BigBad1
Member
*****
Posts: 112


1999 Interstate

Garner NC


« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2014, 10:00:21 PM »

Here's one thing you may want to try. Unlatch the gas cap and go for a ride. If you have a spare key, you can just pop it open when you get up to speed. If not, you can unlatch the cap, push in the clamps on the inside of the cap and remove the key to start the bike. If you are having a venting problem - it will run fine with the gas cap open. Only try this when your tank is sort of low on fuel. You don't want to slosh the fuel out on that nice paint job. If the problem goes away, you have a restriction in your venting. If it persist, it's not a venting problem. Then you can proceed to fuel starvation, bad floats, and clogged jets. Let us know what you find.
Logged

Westsider
Member
*****
Posts: 716


Fort Worth TX.


« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2014, 10:58:34 PM »

My 02 worth,  the guy that did it said a few floats seemed like they were not floting right and said the float needles were ok but would recommend replacing them. - floats only float one way ,, how would you know if you need float needles unless you have them in your hand looking at them (aka rubber tips coming apart or springs sticking)? Stock jets keep the stock pipes nice and shiny chrome, yes they are double walled , but its a sure tell tale sign of someone jacking around with carb settings, jet changing when the factory pipes turn anything but shiny chrome. (No I don't believe idling for long periods, or leaving the choke / enricher out to long does it)  , I've never seen any fuel related "gumming" or "clogging" of a jet that doesn't cleanup with a quickness, with the berrymans b12 in the spray can. The stuff is wicked and the brass jets will be clean as they were when new. Bigger jetting is for bigger mods than air cleaner or exhaust mods. Ok that MIGHT be .02 & 1/2 worth--Hope you find the 5th gear stumble. Smiley

I think a lot of carb issues are with the pilot circuits and needle assembly's, but that would be along way from a high rpm, 5th gear issue.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2014, 07:23:18 AM by Westsider » Logged

we'll be there when we get there -   Valkless,, on lookout....
Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #19 on: January 05, 2014, 07:35:52 AM »

I dont know it he meant the springs were sticking or what. If that was the case I would probably have more problems other than just in high gear. Im just wondering if the vacuum system is old and needs replaced. If all else fails ill pull the carbs just for peace of mind.
Logged

Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #20 on: January 05, 2014, 08:03:22 AM »

Rather than replacing the vacuum lines I would suggest to de-smog the bike.

That will get rid of all the vacuum lines but one, that being the vacuum line to the

the stock petcock.

There was one fellow that reported the same problem as you and he finally had success

when he discovered that a vacuum line was incorrectly hooked up to a carburetor vent

gallery. It had baffled him and his mechanic for quite some time.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Gavin_Sons
Member
*****
Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #21 on: January 05, 2014, 08:48:16 AM »

I have a manual pingle. I do have red eyes shiny desmog kit on the shelf in the garage. Thanks ricky, I will try that first and foremost.  cooldude
Logged

salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #22 on: January 05, 2014, 03:38:07 PM »

Rather than replacing the vacuum lines I would suggest to de-smog the bike.

That will get rid of all the vacuum lines but one, that being the vacuum line to the

the stock petcock.

There was one fellow that reported the same problem as you and he finally had success

when he discovered that a vacuum line was incorrectly hooked up to a carburetor vent

gallery. It had baffled him and his mechanic for quite some time.

***

 cooldude  Good approach IMO.
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: