Carb removal/instal

[PhredValk]

I just received the Red Eye engine heat shield. It goes between the carbs and engine block. Instructions involve removing the crash bars and radiator.

With plans to de-smog I'll have the tank and air box off so my question is: if I simply pull the carb bank, install the shield and re-install the carbs, what are the chances that I will have to adjust and sync the carbs?
Fred.

[Patrick]

Slim to probably none. But, just in case there was a vacuum leak and its been awhile since they were checked, I'd check/adjust them. But, if you don't have the stuff to do it then just see how it runs when you're done. It can be done anytime.

[Ricky-D]

I don't understand the reason for the "heat shield".

The carburetors are pretty far above the engine and insulated besides, by the rubber sleeves.

I've always wished the carburetors would heat up more anyways because when there is a little

water in the float bowls, it would freeze in the winter and clog up the main jets. It would take

quite some time to warm them up to allow them to perform properly.

***

[Tropic traveler]

The heat shield seems like a good idea at least in theory. As a practical thing I have accumulated lots of hot Florida miles with no heat related carb issues. I LOVE riding in the heat!     I figure that with a de-smog {all of ours are} there is plenty of air flow in the area around the carbs.
To answer your question, no you would not have adjust your carbs just for pulling them off. I think you could get away with pulling one side of the intakes {loosen the other side} & tilt the bank up then slide the shield in that way. Also be a good time to put new O-rings on your intakes, also available from Red-Eye.  

[PhredValk]

Good info, thanks. I'll probably do one side intakes and try it that way. I'm thinking of pulling and polishing the intakes at that time, as well.
Fred.

[R J]

Just out of curiosity, why the hell do you want to put a heat shield under the carbs for?

You realize you will be cutting the heat off that the carbs use to perform to their best.

They work better when they get some heat to them.

It is your $$$$ and it will be your problem when it starts running shitty when the engine is warmed up.

So have at it.  

At least you will know how to take it out.   LOL.......

[auditray2007]

Does fuel not combust better when it is cooler?

[MC Flannel]

fuel goes boom better when its warmer.  that is why jet engines have a thing called a fuel heater/strainer assembly.  it runs the fuel through a heat exchange that is heated by the scavenged oil. cooling the oil and heating the fuel.  but I don't think that the blanket between the block of the engine and the carbs on the bike would make all that much of a difference.  and as for checking the sync after the install I cant see how it would change so I would not worry about it.  if you are concerned about it, get a black marker and put a vertical stripe on each of the adjusting screws so when you reinstall you can see if the screws have moved.  they also sell this stuff called torque stripe that is a paste that you can put on and leave on any bolt so when you look at it and the stripe is broken you can tell if a bolt/nut/screw moved.

[auditray2007]

Does fuel not combust better when it is cooler?

I should have said when the air is cooler. Warmish fuel and cold air. As in high altitude where the fuel would have to be heated. Given that the Valk engine is going to warm the carbs anyway would the heat shield not keep the air at the filter inlet that bit cooler? The GW carbs are heated by water but not on the Valk.

[Steel cowboy]

I tend to differ from Mc Flannes take on jet fuel. The fuel is heated to keep it from freezing by either circulating it from tank to tank or passing it thru a heat exchanger. Jet aircraft fly at about 30,000 feet were the air temperature can be lower than a bone chilling -50'. The heat shield can be a good idea if only to lower the noise of our engines and or cool the float bowls down some. On my I/S the P/O removed the heat shield between the radiator and the card's. My idle would clime to 2500 rpm's when I got stuck in traffic or slowed down from a high speed cruise. The 2 front carb's reached 220 degrees when I got stuck in traffic. I used a temp probe to get my numbers. The radiator on the carb side hit 229 and the fan kicked on. I duplicated the same scenario in my driveway but used a leaf blower to cool the carb's down which lowered the rpm's to a safe idle. I attribute the higher rpm's to fuel vaporizing in the bowls and forcing itself thru the jets. The fuel vapors could not go back into the fuel lines since the float valves were closed from the upward force of the floats. That said I would like an update to the heat shield install on the engine. I also desmoged mine to get more air circulation under the cabs. I used the "shiny desmog kit" which had everything needed in the kit. This is my opinion of the engine heat "cover"

[auditray2007]

SC; that's what you call doing your homework. Very interesting indeed.
I suffer from Tinnitus and hear all of the Tap a tap a tap a (as Maggie Simpson would say) there is to hear. To that end I was hoping to reduce some of that. Only time will tell. I was thinking Dynamat Extreme or Redeye. I took off my helmet to see what the difference was and WOW. Was a beautiful sound the Valk makes. A whole different world. Might buy myself a Scorpion half lid. I'll see how the shield goes first.

The heat issue is secondary to me really as we have lower temps here normally. As I am desmoging with core plugs the canvas is blank right now. I would have thought that the shield can lessen the extreme heat to the carbs and keep the air going into the filter that little bit cooler in traffic at least. Would it not allow more heat distribution out through the heads also (98 Tourer).

[DK]

fuel goes boom better when its warmer.  that is why jet engines have a thing called a fuel heater/strainer assembly.  it runs the fuel through a heat exchange that is heated by the scavenged oil. cooling the oil and heating the fuel.  but I don't think that the blanket between the block of the engine and the carbs on the bike would make all that much of a difference.  and as for checking the sync after the install I cant see how it would change so I would not worry about it.  if you are concerned about it, get a black marker and put a vertical stripe on each of the adjusting screws so when you reinstall you can see if the screws have moved.  they also sell this stuff called torque stripe that is a paste that you can put on and leave on any bolt so when you look at it and the stripe is broken you can tell if a bolt/nut/screw moved.

We used to use "cold cans" on our race cars. Cold fuel is denser and less likely to vapor lock. It also cools the intake valves a few more degrees.

As to the silicone blanket, cooling the carbs will add heat To the engine. Either way, it is a trade off. Cold carbs and cold engines are not happy & too hot carbs & too hot engines are not happy but cold carbs and hot engines are most happy.

For various fuel cold cans & fuel cooling systems see:

http://www.jegs.com/c/Fuel-Carbs-Intakes_Cool-Cans-Fuel-Coolers/10291/10002/-1

I seriously doubt that the cooling blanket improves anything unless you are racing in the desert and experiencing vapor lock which I understand to be unheard of in Valks in normal operation.

Dan