Changing to Mobil One

[Hogdaddy]

I picked up a 2000 Interstate with 31,000 miles. I want to change to Mobil One MX4. (same oil I use in my Standard) I have heard in the past if it had over 10k miles not to change. Second question how ofter do most change oil . I have been changing at 3k on both the standard and the Harley, I maybe over changing. Riding between 20k and 25k that is a lot for oil especially at  $9 a quart. Thanks

[frosty]

I've been thinking the same thing. Using Mobile One Synthetic and changing every 3-4K. Just changed it last Month. . Also to make sure since Mobile has dif. caps now. Use to be the red cap. Now silver cap 15-50 , the API SM,SL/CF  o.k. to run??

[Robert]

I use the Mobil One V Twin which I would recommend over the MX4. I too used to change at 3 to 4k now 6 to 7k and then its just starting to show signs of needing changes. Factory recommended is 8k with regular oil so with synthetic really this should be no big deal. Plus you can change to synthetic at any time with no problem gone are the days that said you cant change in mid stream.

[98valk]

I want to change to Mobil One MX4.   Second question how ofter do most change oil . I have been changing at 3k on both the standard and the Harley, that is a lot for oil especially at  $9 a quart. Thanks

u are wasting your money and time changing oil that much. base your changes on facts not feelings or how the oil looks. I have done a few oil analysis on the oil, the bike is easy on the oil. 3 reasons; 1, the boxer style engine is easy on oil., 2, the trans gears are cut like modern manual trans gears in autos/trucks which are easy on the oil. This is why the 5 speed in my dakota can use semi-syn 5w30 oil and last 30-50k miles before a change depending on model., 3, Honda for these reasons calls out 8k mile oil change with their terrible honda oil as tested by numerous magazines.
many on here are using either amsoil or rotella syn and going 10k btwn changes.
see some OAs at www.bobistheoilguy.com  learn for yourself about the oil truth, u'll be glad u did.
on a side note, for the ones who are afraid of moly in their oil, the fact is that the mobil m/c oils have more moly than the mobil auto oils. this was shown with OA a few yrs ago. u can search my post in the archives or on oilguy site.

[Jim Ross]

I agree with you...could not have said it any better.  I think a lot of good oil is dumped and wasted.  If folks feel the need to change more often than 10K miles, then change the filter and add enough to top off.  Modern synthetics will easily go 10K or more depending on application.

[valkmc]

I use Rotella and change around 10,000. Oil still looks good when I take it out. I use it in my old push mower after that.

[BF]

Mobil V-Twin 20-50 and pure one filter.  Twice a year....spring and fall.  Maybe it's over-kill...or not.  Who knows, but it makes me feel better.  

[sandy]

Mobil V-Twin 20-50 and pure one filter. : This is what I use too. Change it every 10K with no problems in 106K on the clock.

[sheets]

Ran Mobil 1 Red Cap in the past.  Been using the Rotella Syn (blue jug) for a few years.  Change at 5K . . . then reuse the drain oil in my commuter car for another 5K miles.  It gets used for 10K miles.  Ymmv, sheets     

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I've have been running mobil1 15w 50 in the lady since I bought her. It had 59 k on it changed to mobil1   as soon as I got it now I have 107K on it. I change every 5k cause it is easy to remember.

[Ken Tarver]

full syn.....I change at 9-10k miles

[asfltdncr]

Rotella from Wal Mart for about $15/gallon.I also own a Honda Interceptor and many owners use Rotella.If you live in a cold climate and have to park it,you should change it in the spring to rid it of contaminants and condensation.I suggest changing oil once a year (spring) unless you put over 10k miles/year.

[thelt]

I run Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. I change it every January. Haven't had a problem at all. Even made my shifts a little quieter. I live in a high heat and high humidity part of the southeast and have done a few oil analysis's on the oil.  Once a year is fine, I could go longer but I don't want to push it.

[98valk]

I run Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. I change it every January. Haven't had a problem at all. Even made my shifts a little quieter. I live in a high heat and high humidity part of the southeast and have done a few oil analysis's on the oil.  Once a year is fine, I could go longer but I don't want to push it.

I'm about to install amsoil 10w30/30 HD oil. this is their diesel rated oil.

[Tundra]

I see everyone goes longer than me. I run my bike very hard, redline everytime I ride. I use Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle oil. No friction modifiers, made for wet clutch applications. I still change every 3k. Yes, I believe this oil is better and will not break down for much much longer intervals, but the dirt in the oil will wear your engine, correct? I believe oil changes are relatively inexpensive insurance. I run full synthetic in all my vehicles, you can pull my dipstick and not see the level, almost clear. That makes me feel good. I'm just a freak that way, clean oil and a well maintained vehicle/motorcycle.
  I've looked at the Rotella everyone talks about. but I didn't see that is was made specificaly for wet clutch applications, therefore am leary to try it.
  Not looking for an oil argument, but if there's a better way, I'm all ears.

[98valk]

but the dirt in the oil will wear your engine, correct?  you can pull my dipstick and not see the level, almost clear. That makes me feel good. I'm just a freak that way, clean oil and a well maintained vehicle/motorcycle.
  I've looked at the Rotella. but I didn't see that is was made specificaly for wet clutch applications, therefore am leary to try it.Not looking for an oil argument, but if there's a better way, I'm all ears.

 "but the dirt in the oil will wear your engine, correct?"  what dirt is getting in your oil? no air filter? K&N air filter? Oil analysis showing dirt in the oil? Your airfilter is the #1 way any dirt gets into an engine. your just wasting your time and money changing the oil so it always looks clear. color of the oil means nothing in regards to its condition. Only oil analysis will tell u anything.
an oil getting darker has nothing to do with the protection it is providing.  A diesel engine will turn its oil almost black within less than 500 miles of use.
research www.bobistheoilguy.com u will find info that will change your mind and wallet. if u check the rotella site its wet clutch rated. look for caterpiller TO-2, TO-3, allison C3, C4,  auto transmission specs.

[Tundra]

CA ExhaustCoatings,
I always thought the oil provided lubrication, and suspended/removed contaminents. That's why I am a frequent changer, gets dirty, must be contaminents.
  Thanks for providing the good information, & the Rotella info. I'm looking for a less expensive alternative as Amsoil is getting ridiculous in their prices.
  I know this subject has been beat to death, I never paid attention cause I liked what I was using...What specific Rotella synthetic oil is being used? I am currently using Amsoil full synthetic 10-40. Is there a full synthetic 10-40 Rotella? I only saw other weights available at my local Wally-World.

[thelt]

I run Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. I change it every January. Haven't had a problem at all. Even made my shifts a little quieter. I live in a high heat and high humidity part of the southeast and have done a few oil analysis's on the oil.  Once a year is fine, I could go longer but I don't want to push it.

I'm about to install amsoil 10w30/30 HD oil. this is their diesel rated oil.

You should use 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil, item # MCTQT, not the diesel rated oil. The diesel rated oil is not formulated specifically for motorcycles and could cause you serious problems. 

[98valk]

"I always thought the oil provided lubrication, and suspended/removed contaminents. That's why I am a frequent changer, gets dirty, must be contaminents."
agree, but not at such a short change interval. There are GL1500s w/300-500k miles and valkyries out there in the 200-300k mile range changing the oil at 8k miles or longer using syn. hwy miles is the easist on oil. The hardest is short trips whereas the oil never gets to 200F to burn off fuel, water and some acids from cold starts.
"Thanks for providing the good information, & the Rotella info. I'm looking for a less expensive alternative as Amsoil is getting ridiculous in their prices."  I haven't checked their prices lately, but the best value has always been their diesel oils.
"What specific Rotella synthetic oil is being used? I am currently using Amsoil full synthetic 10-40. Is there a full synthetic 10-40 Rotella? I only saw other weights available at my local Wally-World."   rotella 5w40 is the group III syn, their 15w40 is the group II dino.   I have used the Amsoil 10w40 in the past oil analysis always came back still good to use even though it would shear down to a think 10w30, wear was still low, tbn still high. one sample only had 2k miles yet was in the the bike for over 1 yr, changed cause amsoil says to although the OA came but still good to use with the tbn still high.

[98valk]

I run Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. I change it every January. Haven't had a problem at all. Even made my shifts a little quieter. I live in a high heat and high humidity part of the southeast and have done a few oil analysis's on the oil.  Once a year is fine, I could go longer but I don't want to push it.

I'm about to install amsoil 10w30/30 HD oil. this is their diesel rated oil.

You should use 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil, item # MCTQT, not the diesel rated oil. The diesel rated oil is not formulated specifically for motorcycles and could cause you serious problems. 

what problems do u think and why? don't believe the motorcycle specific oil hype that has been put out throughout the yrs. It has been disproved through OA and actual road miles over the yrs.

[thelt]

I run Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. I change it every January. Haven't had a problem at all. Even made my shifts a little quieter. I live in a high heat and high humidity part of the southeast and have done a few oil analysis's on the oil.  Once a year is fine, I could go longer but I don't want to push it.

I'm about to install amsoil 10w30/30 HD oil. this is their diesel rated oil.

You should use 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle oil, item # MCTQT, not the diesel rated oil. The diesel rated oil is not formulated specifically for motorcycles and could cause you serious problems. 

what problems do u think and why? don't believe the motorcycle specific oil hype that has been put out throughout the yrs. It has been disproved through OA and actual road miles over the yrs.

Don't know if it's hype or not, but with that logic why can't I put regular motor oil in my diesel truck? It takes 12 qts.

[John U.]

It seems logical that gasoline engines are more alike one another than different. The only problems I've heard about using a car oil in a bike is that the transmissions will break down the viscosity of the oil and that the wet clutches can't tolerat too much moly.
A diesel engine on the other hand has to deal with greater bearing loads due to much higher compression and a lot of soot that all diesels generate. A turbo diesel like my truck and no doubt yours, has the heat of the turbo bearings to deal with as well.

[thelt]

Have you run diesel oil in a gas engine?. Just curious. Sounds logical.

[98valk]

Have you run diesel oil in a gas engine?. Just curious. Sounds logical.

lots of times, esp in cycles. A diesel engine with its long stroke and as a result high piston speed usually higher than a 600cc inline four at 10krpms needs a highly shear stable oil. Exactly what a cycle with a shared gear box of the oil needs. Do a web search and u will see that diesel oils highbeen used for yrs in bikes with great success in regards to logivity and low wear.