Handlebars and risers

[oldman]

I hope this is not an old question ya'll are tired of answering.  I have a 98 Tourer, I'm 5' 9" with neck and shoulder problems, I need the handlebars back at least an inch and a half. My question, has anyone moved their bars back an inch or two (via bars or risers) and did you have to do any more than reroute the wires and cables?  I'm on a tight budget and the bars seem to be the cheaper route. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks

[Houdini]

We kicked that subject around a few months ago.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,529.0.html

Here are the ones I have used in the past.

http://www.bigbikeparts.com/Inventory/Navision/55-304X?catalogNo=

Minor rerouting is all I needed to do; if the risers were any longer I would have to move the throttle cables behind the triple clamps.

Chuck

[vicnelson]

We kicked that subject around a few months ago.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,529.0.html

Here are the ones I have used in the past.

http://www.bigbikeparts.com/Inventory/Navision/55-304X?catalogNo=

Minor rerouting is all I needed to do; if the risers were any longer I would have to move the throttle cables behind the triple clamps.

Chuck

I am revisiting this issue of raising my bars on my '99 Tourer. Last summer I looked into spacers but the stud on the OEM riser was not long enough to include the spacer and it looked like the stud could not be removed from the risser (am I correct on this assumption?). The cost of spacers and new studs or bolts is under $50. I saw the 4" risers on bigbikes web at a cost of $140 which I view as costly for a one inch gain in height and a slight pull back. I guess my question is can the OEM studs be removed and replaced?

[Houdini]

Tighten two nuts together really tight on the stud but keeps their sides parallel, then remove the nuts with the wrench on both.  The stud should back out.  It may take a couple of tries to get the stud to break loose.

I put these on my second Valk, just in black instead of chrome

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MOTORCYCLE-CUSTOM-CHOPPER-HANDLEBAR-BAR-RISERS-4-5-INCH-HANDLE-BAR-PULL-BACK-/231417901285?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2004|Make%3AHonda&hash=item35e194f0e5&vxp=mtr

They've been going strong for a year now so I have no fear that they will break.

[Jack B]

Tighten two nuts together really tight on the stud but keeps their sides parallel, then remove the nuts with the wrench on both.  The stud should back out.  It may take a couple of tries to get the stud to break loose.

I put these on my second Valk, just in black instead of chrome

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MOTORCYCLE-CUSTOM-CHOPPER-HANDLEBAR-BAR-RISERS-4-5-INCH-HANDLE-BAR-PULL-BACK-/231417901285?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2004|Make%3AHonda&hash=item35e194f0e5&vxp=mtr

They've been going strong for a year now so I have no fear that they will break.



I have the same ones on my Valk, but you do have to drill out the tripe tree just a hair.

[Red Diamond]

I have the same ones Houdini has on two Valks also, the problem I have is that the Allen head screws will rust a bit. Other than that, I think they are solid and a good buy.

[vicnelson]

I found in the 1500 Tech forum the following:

http://www.genmarmfg.com/

There I found an attachment that mounts in the place of the Handlebar and provides a 1" rise for the handlebar to reside. It is genius (as usual very simple solution). Basicaly put a spacer on top rather than on the bottom of the riser. I have ordered these extentions today $75 with shipping.

I understand the process for removing the stud (thank you, sincerely) but the OEM part does not come out I have learned.

[Houdini]

Good find Vic.

You'll want to look at the way the cables are attached to the bars, they'll need to be slightly rerouted with the riser.  What I did was open the cable ties, remove the cables, spin the ties 180°, and stuff the cables back in and close 'em.  If you don't the throttle may bind on left turns.