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Author Topic: Carb Clean- new jets?- FINAL UPDATE!  (Read 3085 times)
BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« on: March 25, 2014, 04:34:17 PM »

All,

 Finally started the baby up this year and it looks like I will have to clean the carbs....

I had a low speed issues, that I was hoping would clear up with techtron and seemed a little better end the end of the season last year, but she ain't running fer sh#t now.....

I think I will replace the low speeds as long as I have the carbs out... I have read here that trying to clean them is a hit or miss plan... so I'll just spend the money and get new ones...

Debate is to stay with the 35's or got to the 38's... I have read good and bad on here.... prefer to keep things mostly stock unless there is a clear advantage to the 38s...

Also where to get them and part numbers if possible....

Thanks in advance

Brad

« Last Edit: April 26, 2014, 01:51:06 PM by BradValk48237 » Logged
BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2014, 07:21:38 PM »

One source for your jets is http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/honda_1500_valkyrie.htm.
I chose 38's. I was not so much for hoping that the 38's wouldn't clog as much but instead I wanted a stronger off idle response than I had with the 35's. I think the 35's were on the lean side to ensure that the engine would pass EPA emissions tests but gave up some driveability as a tradeoff. I turned in the idle-air screws to 1-3/4 turns out after the change out and have been please with the result.
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signart
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Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2014, 07:27:08 PM »

I would not down the carbs just to change the jets, but as long as you are going to change the slows, I can't think of one disadvantage to 38's. Advantages are many.
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whitestroke
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San Pedro, Ca.


« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2014, 09:06:28 PM »

Would keep the 35's unless you have pipes.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2014, 07:44:28 AM »

Try some Beryman's B-12

It seems that this is a stronger solution when comparing

the different gas additives and reports on this forum

suggest real positive results.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2014, 11:04:46 AM »

Berryman's Chemtool B 12 is GOOD STUFF!  cooldude
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

signart
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Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2014, 11:12:36 AM »

+1 on Berryman's, but be careful with spillage on stuff that shines.
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2014, 01:41:12 PM »

I too would recommend running some more goop thru it for a couple more tanks. It takes awhile for the stuff to work.

As far as changing to 38s, some like them and they may very well help in reducing the varnish problem. I like the 35s and don't have a problem cleaning jets, others will disagree.
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BradValk48237
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Oak Park, MI


« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2014, 01:56:06 PM »

Some History...

All last year I ran thru all kinds of recommended stuff... Berrymans, techtron, Seafoam and it did get a little better, but it always sounded like #6 was missing at idle and there also was right side popping... probably 6 bottles of stuff al together....

Did all the usually... header nuts all tight, carb boots all on correct and tight, desmogged, all Vacuum lines are gone... manual petcock..... tank vent not kinked...etc....

But still not running as smooth as I have heard and felt other Valks running....

Did not want to pull carbs, but pretty sure the slow on #6 is completely clogged.....

She will run fairly well once rolling, but the idle is rough and missing some "oommff" off the line....

SO , before I get into the full riding season, I want it right....

Also the some of the Idle/air screws are seized- almost stripped a couple trying to get them to move.... Have the tool.....

B
« Last Edit: March 26, 2014, 01:58:05 PM by BradValk48237 » Logged
uturn
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bayou vista, texas


« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2014, 07:06:54 AM »

all that magic spell crap people think cleans carbs doesnt actually clean carbs. it might help keep them clean...but if the bike, boat, lawnmower, generator, power washer, etc sit up for the winter, the very breath of the Lord God Almighty wont clean the jets, air passages, and moving parts.

your machine is desmogged, you can pull them off and have them apart in an hour, maybe two...then while youre waiting for your 38's to show up (DO NOT get them from china, or youll be waiting for 8 million years for shipping...) you can clean and soak everything. youll probably be cleaning up all that left over seafoam...

imho. and previous experience. i love carbs. theyve gotten me a free boat, lawnmower, pressure washer, generator, and an awesome deal on a valk....all because people are too unmotivated to learn how they work and spend the time cleaning them. then, they give them to me or sell it cheap.
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uturn
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bayou vista, texas


« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2014, 07:09:02 AM »

oh...and by way of encouragement...when you get the fat lady together with the 38's, fire her up, and head down the road, youll smile bigger than the first time you rode the valk.
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2014, 10:10:42 AM »

all that magic spell crap people think cleans carbs doesnt actually clean carbs. it might help keep them clean...but if the bike, boat, lawnmower, generator, power washer, etc sit up for the winter, the very breath of the Lord God Almighty wont clean the jets, air passages, and moving parts.

your machine is desmogged, you can pull them off and have them apart in an hour, maybe two...then while youre waiting for your 38's to show up (DO NOT get them from china, or youll be waiting for 8 million years for shipping...) you can clean and soak everything. youll probably be cleaning up all that left over seafoam...

imho. and previous experience. i love carbs. theyve gotten me a free boat, lawnmower, pressure washer, generator, and an awesome deal on a valk....all because people are too unmotivated to learn how they work and spend the time cleaning them. then, they give them to me or sell it cheap.


I've been working on carburetors for over 5 decades and have made a good living at it. Sea-Foam works. It made a believer out of me, which is hard to do. It is not the be-all and end-all, but, usually worth a try depending on how the engine runs and whether its a PITA to get at and fix.
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BradValk48237
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Oak Park, MI


« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2014, 11:43:36 AM »

Thanks all....

I just ordered the 38's   

Now all I have to do is get the carbs out......

Any tips on that and cleaning welcome.... Every step you save me means one less thing i have to figure out how to screw up myself.....

B
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rugguy
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2000 Valk I/S

Atlanta, GA


« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2014, 12:40:14 PM »

I used this video as a guide...very helpful

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDLTpQCTBsc

And my Clymer's helped with diagrams for reinstall....

Good luck....
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2014, 02:02:56 PM »

Thanks all....

I just ordered the 38's  

Now all I have to do is get the carbs out......

Any tips on that and cleaning welcome.... Every step you save me means one less thing i have to figure out how to screw up myself.....

B

One thing I found helpful was to remove the left rear motor mount bolt back by the alternator. This allowed for the mounting bracket to be swung back towards the petcock. This increased  maneuverability made getting the carb bank  out easier.  Roll Eyes
« Last Edit: March 27, 2014, 02:08:59 PM by salty1 » Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2014, 04:57:09 PM »

That's what i'm looking for!
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Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #16 on: March 28, 2014, 07:06:59 PM »

Thanks all....

I just ordered the 38's   

Now all I have to do is get the carbs out......

Any tips on that and cleaning welcome.... Every step you save me means one less thing i have to figure out how to screw up myself.....

B

Might as well order new float bowl O-rings/gaskets from Red Eye Tech and their pilot jet O-rings, and Intake O-rings. And carefully check the rubber tips on the float needles.

Good luck Brad
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
Conrad
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« Reply #17 on: March 28, 2014, 10:04:43 PM »

Mine sat for a few months and now runs worse than it ever has.  It's hurting my soul.
I'm guessing clogged jets on the left hand side.   If I put the choke on just a little it seems to smooth out.   It's never done this before.   Think seafoam will help this?
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Momz
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« Reply #18 on: March 29, 2014, 06:39:48 AM »

Mine sat for a few months and now runs worse than it ever has.  It's hurting my soul.
I'm guessing clogged jets on the left hand side.   If I put the choke on just a little it seems to smooth out.   It's never done this before.   Think seafoam will help this?

I'd try Berrymans B12 Chemtool (available at Auto Zone for less than $5.00 a can). Run your bike at low speeds, or just let it idle until the fan comes on,...shut her down,...let her cool,..,.repeat this several times and you will see a real improvement.  cooldude
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97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #19 on: April 24, 2014, 09:50:26 AM »

Hey All,

 All the parts are here and the week end project starting today is to Git Em Dun...

Questions I have is,  according to the video is to remove the slides, but several people here say to leave them alone so as not to possibly damage the diaphragms....

Should I just remove the bottoms/bowls and change out and clean the jets? Or should I do bowls and backing plates, OR go whole hog and pull it all?

If they are fairly clean when I pull the bowl... is that a sign I can just clean the jets (replacing low speed with 38's) with out pulling floats, etc

If they are really gunky I will just see what it needs....

Any further advice is welcome...

B
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2014, 11:55:38 AM »

Since the carb bank is out, do the whole "magilla". Once you make your inspection of one carb at a time, you'll know what's required for each. Good luck!   cooldude
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

BradValk48237
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Oak Park, MI


« Reply #21 on: April 24, 2014, 03:45:13 PM »

They are out and on the bench... 4 out of 6 air screws are seized and soaking with penetrating oil now....

Will see if they come loose tomorrow... May have to slot them as the "D" tool almost rounded them out.....

Main jets are soaking and pilots are going to be replaced with new 38's....

Bowl gaskets had brown crud in some spot on both sides and might have had tiny leak (always have had a gas smell) so those are going to get replaced with the ones I ordered from red eye....

More to follow with tomorrows work....

B
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twdurdentwd
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Sebastian, Florida


« Reply #22 on: April 24, 2014, 04:10:26 PM »

Lil tidbit: If, after replacing carbs and getting everything back together, the throttle does not snap back, check the tension on one of the PITA throttle cables and back it off a bit until its just  enough to allow throttle to "snap back" or return to it's default position rather quickly...experienced this issue
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reachray37
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« Reply #23 on: April 24, 2014, 07:38:10 PM »

just got done doing mine, put in the 38's new gaskets and o.rings from redeye got the kit for the pilots too ..spings o.rings,washers..nice. pulled everything apart cleaned washed plenty of compressd air back together good friday. ManOMan my valk never ran so strong. good luck ,be patiant it's worth it cooldude
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BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #24 on: April 25, 2014, 08:13:06 AM »

Someone on hear posted the "glue" to glue down the bowl gaskets, but I can't seem to find it...

The Honda dealer sold me "Honda Bond 4" which says semi drying liquid gasket  Part # 08717-1194

Is this the right stuff? I don't want to open it if its not the right stuff

B
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #25 on: April 25, 2014, 12:03:10 PM »

Honda bond is great but all you need to do is tack the gasket at the corners. Don't over due it,  just let it dry, and the gasket will stay in place for reassembly.
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1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

BradValk48237
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Oak Park, MI


« Reply #26 on: April 25, 2014, 12:25:33 PM »

Thanks Salty....

When It said liquid gasket, I thought he gave me the wrong stuff... but now I see its silicone .....

Yeah,  I'll use just enough to tack em down

B
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reachray37
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« Reply #27 on: April 25, 2014, 06:22:39 PM »

I used silicon grease on mine worked great. Use spairingly also used it on the airbox connections. nearly fell together Smiley
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BradValk48237
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Posts: 1716


Oak Park, MI


« Reply #28 on: April 26, 2014, 07:43:57 AM »

Well was cleaning up the first Carb  #6.. the one I thought had a problem to begin with...

As I blew out the circuits, this is what can out of the low speed.....



Big OL semi hard clot of Sh#t!!!!!!!!!

I am doing one at a time, and hope fully this is all! Originally I was just going to clean and change the jets, but after advice from you guys I decided to pull them all apart... this came out from when I blew air thru the back plate side....

I will see once I get them back on the bike

Only 5 more to go!

B
« Last Edit: April 26, 2014, 07:46:36 AM by BradValk48237 » Logged
BradValk48237
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Oak Park, MI


« Reply #29 on: April 26, 2014, 01:50:37 PM »

DONE!!!!!!!!

And all I can say is ....

WHOOOPEEEE!!!!!!!

This is like a new bike.... I don't think its run right since I bought it, because its never run like this......

No more popping, no more lugging, and hit the throttle and Boom!  off you go!.... Even took off from a stop in 5th, just to see if it could..and it did.

Me Likey!!!!

One bad note.... I got the carbs in, F'n air box in, and tank on.... Started it up, had to readjust the idle (still might need to sync the carbs)...... As I was letting it run, I looked over on the bench with the parts still to go back on- Pods, chrome covers, etc, and noticed a big piece of black plastic..... yep... I fergitted to put the air shield in front of the carbs.... FFFUUUUU%%%%%^^^^^^.....

Hour later, after tank off, air box off,  it was all back together and I went for a ride.... and didn't want to come back!

I luv this bike!!!!!

I think the 38 jets also made a difference, but after the way it was running, who knows... will know more later.....

It wasn't as much work to do the carbs as I thought, just took time and moderate cussing,  and would recommend anyone with performance issues (and basic skills) to do it.

Once again, Thanks all of you for your great advice and input... It got me a new bike!

You fella's rock!

B
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #30 on: April 26, 2014, 04:20:43 PM »

Way to go Brad! Leaving that air dam out would have been something I would do too. Now that you've done this carb project you really need to synch yours carbs. It's not difficult,  it will help that Valk run even better.   cooldude
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1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #31 on: April 27, 2014, 05:54:55 PM »

You are sooo welcome Brad  Grin
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 

97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
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