oil flush

[Fuzz]

  Just bought a 2000 standard and would like to flush some clean oil through the motor. I thought I would run a gallon of Rotella 15/40 (not T6 synthetic) for an hour or two with a fresh P 14610 filter then dump it and go back with Mobil 1 and another fresh filter. Is this just a complete waste of time, or could it give me a little fresher start to my maintenence schedule? The oil I dumped out seemed pretty dirty and the bike overall seemed to lack in the cleanliness department. Thanks for your input.
Fuzz14 

[Chrisj CMA]

I have heard of doing this......but why waste expensive stuff.  Just run some cheapo dino oil through if you feel you need to, then fill with Mobil 1.

[Jess from VA]

Or add a half can of Seafoam to the dirty oil, idle to hot, then change oil and filter.

Be sure to lean the bike way over right to get all the oil out.

[twdurdentwd]

Or add a half can of Seafoam to the dirty oil, idle to hot, then change oil and filter.

Be sure to lean the bike way over right to get all the oil out.

+1 on the seafoam

[Bone]

The oil I dumped out seemed pretty dirty

The oil is doing it's job. Change the oil and filter at regular intervals and it will look better but not clean.

[pancho]

Don't overthink it.... just change the oil and filter and be done with it.

[Pete]

Use a cleaning agent with the oil. Example - Marvel Mystery oil  - to help clean and flush old oil residue.
Drain hot and wait enough time for all oil to completely drain. Lean the bike right and left and hold the bike at 90 degrees from the floor to complete the drain.

[Daniel Meyer]

Don't overthink it.... just change the oil and filter and be done with it.

This.

Then ride it like you stole it.

[Patrick]

This never made much sense to me, but, as usual, its just my opinion so its not worth much. Its worth about what you paid for it. Why put in oil to try and clean something that is not the oil you intend on really using afterwards ?


I'm a huge fan of Sea-foam, but, not in the engine.

Why not just change the oil and put in what you want to use all the time ? Then change it when it starts to get dirty or after a few miles, then just do it again.

[uturn]

i think im gonna like daniel meyer. hes my kind of guy.

[98valk]

The oil I dumped out seemed pretty dirty

The oil is doing it's job. Change the oil and filter at regular intervals and it will look better but not clean.

exactly. how an oil looks means really nothing. oil analysis is the only way to know.
just change the oil with the oil u plan of using, syn good for 8-10k miles. honda recomends 8k change on non syn oil.

[Pete]

Looks does not tell you everything about oil, neither does smell.
An oil analysis done by a quality lab is always best.

But sight and smell can tell you some things.
Burnt smell - ran hot
Gas smell - bad rings, carbs leaking, etc
Frosty or foam - water or coolant in the oil - gasket or seal leaking
Sweet smell - coolant in the oil - gasket or seal leaking
Black - needs changing, if low mileage(cheap oil)(overheated) - if regular mileage (oil is cleaning engine)
Brown/gritty - check air cleaner and change oil NOW

Feel free to add to the list.

[Patrick]

Looks does not tell you everything about oil, neither does smell.
An oil analysis done by a quality lab is always best.

But sight and smell can tell you some things.
Burnt smell - ran hot
Gas smell - bad rings, carbs leaking, etc
Frosty or foam - water or coolant in the oil - gasket or seal leaking
Sweet smell - coolant in the oil - gasket or seal leaking
Black - needs changing, if low mileage(cheap oil)(overheated) - if regular mileage (oil is cleaning engine)
Brown/gritty - check air cleaner and change oil NOW

Feel free to add to the list.

So, you lab test your motorcycle oil ?
We've had oil sent for testing on a somewhat regular basis to get a baseline for maintenance on certain vehicles or aircraft.  On a personal vehicle, just change it when in question. Its easier and cheaper and faster than testing, but, its just my thoughts, so,,,,

[biguglyman]

i think im gonna like daniel meyer. hes my kind of guy.

Met him at the last Inzane. Great guy and a fount of Valkyrie info without all the bs. 

[Pete]

Looks does not tell you everything about oil, neither does smell.
An oil analysis done by a quality lab is always best.

But sight and smell can tell you some things.
Burnt smell - ran hot
Gas smell - bad rings, carbs leaking, etc
Frosty or foam - water or coolant in the oil - gasket or seal leaking
Sweet smell - coolant in the oil - gasket or seal leaking
Black - needs changing, if low mileage(cheap oil)(overheated) - if regular mileage (oil is cleaning engine)
Brown/gritty - check air cleaner and change oil NOW

Feel free to add to the list.

So, you lab test your motorcycle oil ?
We've had oil sent for testing on a somewhat regular basis to get a baseline for maintenance on certain vehicles or aircraft.  On a personal vehicle, just change it when in question. Its easier and cheaper and faster than testing, but, its just my thoughts, so,,,,

Yes, when needed, or something is suspect.

[Earl in Pensacola]

Unless your dip-stick indicates that you have a crank case full of sludge, then while engine is warm, just pull the drain plug, take off the oil filter, turn over ( Do not start it or let it run) the engine two or three times.  A fair amount more oil wil come out the oil filter hole.  Install a new filter and reinstall the drain plug. Pour in 1 gallon of your personal choice oil and you're done!

[98valk]

Using your catch pan after you have drained the oil and after you have taken the filter out leave the catch pan under it and move it slightly forward.   Bump the start switch a little but not enough to start the engine.  This will burp up some remaining oil in the system.  Do this approx four or five times and done.  Thread the filter on, pour in your favorite oil and go for a ride.

not a good idea.
most engine wear is at startup. during operation it is low due to the hydrodynamic oil film/cushion that is developed to keep metal parts from touching each other. this film is actually supporting the crankshaft in the bearings for example, and actually due to torsional forces the crankshaft is not actually centered in the bearings.
bump starting the engine is actually slaming the crankshaft into the bearings.
tilting the bike left to right to drain all of the oil out of the heads and then having the bike standing straight up is the best way to drain the oil.

[salty1]

Increase the frequency of your oil and filter changes, every 3000 miles.

[Cracker Jack]

Using your catch pan after you have drained the oil and after you have taken the filter out leave the catch pan under it and move it slightly forward.   Bump the start switch a little but not enough to start the engine.  This will burp up some remaining oil in the system.  Do this approx four or five times and done.  Thread the filter on, pour in your favorite oil and go for a ride.

The extra oil you get from bumping the start switch is the oil in the oil pump and engine passages. After doing this, the oil pump has to reprime itself upon engine starting after the replacing the oil and causes the engine to run longer before the pump can build pressure. I'll just leave that oil in the engine and let it mix with the new oil.

[John Schmidt]

And, always fill the new filter with oil before mounting it. As for going through extra processes to flush it, not really worth the effort. Just do as others have suggested....drain when hot, including the filter, replace with fresh stuff and ride it. If you're concerned about its history, then change it again in a couple thousand miles. Do that a couple times and all the old will be out of the system. However, I never found that necessary on these bikes....just change it all now and ride it. Change again in 6-8k miles.