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twdurdentwd
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« on: April 06, 2014, 08:53:58 AM » |
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I've got a 6° trigger wheel and am trading my std in for an I/S and need a 4° instead... If anyone is in the opposite situation, please let me know! Thanks!
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2014, 09:57:52 AM » |
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Why not just take a file to it and make your own 4º trigger ?
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2014, 09:59:59 AM » |
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I don't trust myself that much lol
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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Eric58701
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« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2014, 10:34:20 AM » |
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Im curious about the 4 degree over the stock as well, what will i notice for improvement ?
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kyrie6
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« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2014, 11:34:37 AM » |
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I run Lamonts 6 deg. in my I/S. no problem over 70k. I do now add Lucus ethanol conditioner to fuel. Runs like a champ.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 02:24:34 PM » |
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As I have reported before, I have two '99 ISs, stock exhaust (identical but for cosmetics).
One has a 4 degree wheel (came on the bike), the other does not. If there is any significant difference in how they run, I could never discover it. Indeed the lower mile (non 4 degree) bike has always run better and faster (seat of pants only). I do recall that my (electronic IS) speedos at exactly 3k rpm in 5th, straight and level, is 62 on one bike and 66 on the other.... not certain which the 4 degree is in, pretty sure it is the 62.
Except I used to have to run premium in the 4 degree bike to stop knocking on hard acceleration. Two summers ago, Big BF did complete desmogs, valves, carb synchs, all intake orings, petcock repairs (and I put in new plugs and air cleaners). Thereafter, I have been able to run regular in the 4 degree bike with no knocking at all. (Only gas I can get is polluted with corn)
When I do my belts, the 4 degree (air lake) becomes a frisbee.
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« Last Edit: April 21, 2014, 02:33:20 PM by Jess from VA »
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2014, 03:43:20 PM » |
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I too have tried the trigger wheels like everyone did way back then, not a big fan. Honda got it right and these monsters don't like a whole lot of advance.
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Momz
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2014, 05:48:52 PM » |
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As I have reported before, I have two '99 ISs, stock exhaust (identical but for cosmetics).
One has a 4 degree wheel (came on the bike), the other does not. If there is any significant difference in how they run, I could never discover it. Indeed the lower mile (non 4 degree) bike has always run better and faster (seat of pants only). I do recall that my (electronic IS) speedos at exactly 3k rpm in 5th, straight and level, is 62 on one bike and 66 on the other.... not certain which the 4 degree is in, pretty sure it is the 62.
Except I used to have to run premium in the 4 degree bike to stop knocking on hard acceleration. Two summers ago, Big BF did complete desmogs, valves, carb synchs, all intake orings, petcock repairs (and I put in new plugs and air cleaners). Thereafter, I have been able to run regular in the 4 degree bike with no knocking at all. (Only gas I can get is polluted with corn)
When I do my belts, the 4 degree (air lake) becomes a frisbee.
PM when you do this, I'll pay the going rate. Or maybe swap an OEM for the Air Lake? |
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« Last Edit: April 21, 2014, 05:50:55 PM by Momz »
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 ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
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rocketray
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2014, 06:26:49 PM » |
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the valkyrie can use more advance at the lower end of the rpm range and the 4 degree wheel will give you more power/torque per se down low but the stock ignition is set max advance at higher rpm meaning the trigger wheel will give you tooo much advance and so lesss power at the top end so if you twist it to redline a lot do not get the trigger wheel if you never rev past 5500 or so use the trigger wheel
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2014, 07:40:55 PM » |
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PM when you do this, I'll pay the going rate. Or maybe swap an OEM for the Air Lake?
Mom, going back a number of years, I have posted this same story about 6 times, here and elsewhere. And every time I do, I get PMs or emails or posts asking for my wheel when I pull it. I think I'll jump off that bridge when I get to it. I have a new Honda wheel sitting in a bin. I won't charge anything more than postage for it. At 15yo and counting, maybe waiting for 100K is stupid before changing belts, but I have 20K more to go on that bike.
One thing nice about having two of the same bike, you really do have an objective way to evaluate different mods of any type. And in a pinch, spare parts are always available.
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Bigwolf
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« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2014, 02:35:19 AM » |
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Momz
pm sent
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #11 on: April 23, 2014, 04:45:47 AM » |
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PM when you do this, I'll pay the going rate. Or maybe swap an OEM for the Air Lake?
Mom, going back a number of years, I have posted this same story about 6 times, here and elsewhere. And every time I do, I get PMs or emails or posts asking for my wheel when I pull it. I think I'll jump off that bridge when I get to it. I have a new Honda wheel sitting in a bin. I won't charge anything more than postage for it. At 15yo and counting, maybe waiting for 100K is stupid before changing belts, but I have 20K more to go on that bike.
One thing nice about having two of the same bike, you really do have an objective way to evaluate different mods of any type. And in a pinch, spare parts are always available.
Agreed. I will be posting another thread in a few mins or so entitled "Complete Build" relating to this |
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Logged
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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