Vent/Vacuum Hose Replacement

[Wilburt]

OK so reference this thread:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,66334.0.html

I checked and I have two cracked hoses going to the front and rear carbs on the left side. The cracks are all the way the length of the nipple it attaches to. Where do I get replacement hoses?

[Wilburt]

Just found out those are carb drain tubing? The Vacuum hoses come from the intake runners. On the right side, the front and rear hoses are blockers. The middle is an actual hose. On the left: the front is a blocker and the middle/rear are real.

Any suggestions? I cant seem the make the idle change as noted below or hear anything.

For sure check the vacuum lines going to carbs. Went to have my carbs synced and as soon as he started my bike he said you have a vacuum leak. I couldn't hear a thing but he reached straight down and grabbed the hose and the idle changed. No more crazy idle and no more popping on decal.

[hubcapsc]

The one you drew an arrow to is a carb drain line, I replaced mine with "similar" ones
from the auto parts store.

Other, more important, ones are vacuum lines... the one from the petcock to the
intake runner, and the ones that run to the back of most of the intake runners.

Some intake runners have vacuum caps on them, not lines...

Fix the cracks on any of the vacuum line ones and your next ride will
give you a big smile 

Search "desmog" if all but one of your intake runners has vacuum caps, it is
still important that they not leak vacuum.

I think it is real hard to get to all of them, particularly the one you drew an arrow
to. Others say it is a breeze. They must have tiny hands ...

-Mike "well worth the effort"

[Wilburt]

Thanks, see above? Also, it seems the drain hose is different than the vacuum line. Is that so? Will this work:

http://www.motosport.com/cruiser/Bikers-Choice-Black-Neoprene-Fuel-Line

[sandy]

The SAE size is 5/32. OEM size is 3.5 mm. The HDL website sells a 26 ft (3000mm) roll of OEM tubing.

[Wilburt]

I picked up some 5/32 vacuum hose at the auto store. I also looked at some 3/16 fuel line for the carb drain. It's much thicker than original. Can I use vacuum line for both?

[Patrick]

You can use the 5/32" line for intake caps also if you want to. Just cut a piece long enough for the intake nipple and a short cap screw that is screwed into the line. They'll last longer than regular caps and you can't really see them. Or you remove the nipples and install a cap screw, then just put the nipples back when doing a sync.

[Wilburt]

You can use the 5/32" line for intake caps also if you want to. Just cut a piece long enough for the intake nipple and a short cap screw that is screwed into the line. They'll last longer than regular caps and you can't really see them. Or you remove the nipples and install a cap screw, then just put the nipples back when doing a sync.

So I can use vacuum line for caps, carb drain and vent line. All three?

[Wewaman]

I didn' t replace carb drain hose's just removed them and  left them uncovered,  but you could use it for that purpose.   I did use the 5/32 vac hose to make my plugs(caps) as Patrick suggested    and also for my Tank vent line and petcock hose.  I also used the 5/32 hose to replace  a 2" long  venting hose on each carb,  tight fit but it can be done.

Wewa

[Wilburt]

Thanks! I'm heading to Deals Gap/Smoky Mountains soon and when I return, I'll tear everything down and get all the lines replaced. 

[Wewaman]

  sounds great. 
Have fun in the Smokey's and on the tail.  If you get a chance ride the Cherohala  skyway too.  All great road's and side road's.   Take pics and share em with the rest of us wishful riders.

[Wilburt]

Alright, back from the Smokies. Did the Cherohala, Deals gap Scenic 73 and a few others. Great time, I'll have to did up some pictures here soon. Also wanted to thank everyone for the help so far.

After 2 bottles of B12, no change. Saturday I replaced all the Vacuum lines and caps with new ones from Red Eye and replaced all the left side carb drain lines. I checked the air filter and it's not bad but will replace this winter for good measure. I have only been able to go for a quick ride (about 20 min) and can't perceive any real changes. Still have the unsure idle. It might be slightly better but I can't really tell. Still when I ride with a good twist and come to a stop, it hovers around 1100-1300 rpm for a bit (30 sec? or so) before dropping to 900 ish. I also have the same decel popping.

I also bought the pilot on bike adjust tool and will try turning each one out by half a turn to see if that helps the decel popping.

Next, I just noticed this:

Some popping on decell is characteristic of cobra 6x6 however, if the popping is pronounced, then a lean decell condition exists.  I would also check all clamps on intakes as they sometimes loosen up.  Look at the intakes where they attach to the head.  The o-ring seal between the head and the intake runner sometimes begin leaking and is usually then seen by some reddish residue running out on the heads at that location.
Bigwolf

I found some reddish residue near one of the intake runners. How hard is it to just pull one and replace the o-ring? Do i have to take off the carb bank?

So to sum it up:

I will try one more bottle of B12, turn each pilot out 1/2 turn, intake o-ring?

Long term, maybe a whole carb re-build, but not until the winter if I have to do that.

[Patrick]

Turning out the pilots a little extra is a good thing while running fuel system cleaner thru it.

Changing the intake runner o-rings is easy, real easy. Just loosen the clamp, remove the 2 retainers on the runner and pull it out.

[pancho]

Replacing the intake Orings may go a long way to solving your problem.

[Wilburt]

So after about 45 minutes, I have 4 out of 6 pilots adjusted 1/2 turn out. The front pilot on each side is "stuck". I tried for 30 minutes on the left front and only got a 1/4 turn.  I even broke the vacuum cap and took off the intake runner to help. Nothing. Any suggestions on getting it to turn? The right front seems equally stuck.


Tomorrow I will order the Intake o-rings and new vacuum caps.

[Patrick]

There are times the pilots need to be cut with a Dremel and a screwdriver used. Work them both out and in with plenty of lube. Once out add a dab of never-sieze to the threads. When seating them, do it gently.

[Ricky-D]

I think you are making a mistake trying to adjust the pilot screws to achieve good

idling characteristics. If it was running good previously, they are not the problem.

And you additionally chance screwing up the pilot screws.

It sounds to me that what your bike needs is a carburetor synchronization.

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