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Author Topic: Thanks for help with rear end  (Read 638 times)
vmb
Member
*****
Posts: 50

Mississippi


« on: April 28, 2014, 06:42:47 PM »

Just a word of thanks and acknowledgement to all you guys that responded with really great tips to a first timer on servicing the rear end on my IS. It took me off/on 2 mos to complete but sure am glad I did it. Don't consider myself a mechanic so I just went slow and studied and read the manual and relied heavily on this site for answers and brilliant suggestions (making the wooden jig to help remove the pinion cup, freezing the dampers to ease installation, and help with finding some of the damn orings and on and on). There were just so many small tips found in the responses that made the difference in calling on somebody to finish the job or me doing it myself. And I am too bullheaded to have somebody finish what I started. Thanks again for teaching me  Smiley Virgil in Mississippi
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old2soon
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*****
Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2014, 07:37:16 PM »

AND it do get a tad easier every time you perform the maintenance. I found out shortly after I joined this forum that the board do rock!!  cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16787


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2014, 07:38:26 PM »

making the wooden jig to help remove the pinion cup

After some use, some of the wood splintered on mine... I used some yellow pine
and some South American hardwood - the hardwood is what splintered.

I want to make another one, all yellow pine, with two uprights, so I don't have to reverse the
final drive in the jig for tightening or loosening the pinion cup...

Got a picture of the one you made?

-Mike
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vmb
Member
*****
Posts: 50

Mississippi


« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2014, 02:26:24 PM »

Don't have a pic but I just used a 2'x2' piece of OSB that I marked and drilled 1/2" holes for the four flange pins. Then I attached a 2x2 across one edge of the OSB and on both sides of the pinion cup to stop the rotation of the pumpkin. Worked like a charm
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16787


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2014, 02:36:55 PM »

Don't have a pic but I just used a 2'x2' piece of OSB that I marked and drilled 1/2" holes for the four flange pins. Then I attached a 2x2 across one edge of the OSB and on both sides of the pinion cup to stop the rotation of the pumpkin. Worked like a charm

I have a 16 foot long treated 4x6 outside. Near one end, I drilled holes for the (5?) flange pins,
and expected I'd be able to loosen the pinion cup nut without the whole 16 foot long 4x6
spinning... but it didn't work.

After all the fooling around with pumpkins I did, I came to realize that that particular pumpkin
had had the pinion cup nut over-tightened... it was that pumpkin where I splintered my
known-to-work jig. I got the guy down at the machine shop at NAPA to loosen that one
with his massive impact.

I need to try the 4x6 again, I bet it will work for a "normally-tightened" pinion cup nut...

-Mike
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vmb
Member
*****
Posts: 50

Mississippi


« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2014, 02:53:40 PM »

Five pins....your right. Guess I was thinkin the 4 bolts on the final drive
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