Broken Choke cable

[Breeze]

Any tips would be appreciated. I went to take the Valk (97) out for a ride and no resistance on the choke knob. It started without the choke. Any common way to start looking. Thanks

[Breeze]

Cable broke inside the switch block.. I need a new cable, i guess no mystery. is oem the only way to go?  thanks

[Michvalk]

I don't know of any aftermarket. There might be someone knows if you could get it with the stainless wrap, but, would be pricey. You can operate the choke by hand if necessary.

[Breeze]

I would need to take the cover to operate it by hand correct? thanks for the reply BTW

[pancho]

Hey Breeze, in an emergency you can access the choke/enrichner linkage on the left side right below the cap on #1 carb,, if you pull it forward (towards the front of the bike) with a screwdriver or pair of needlenose, it will operate all six of the carbs.

[Rio Wil]

I understand you believe the cable to be broken inside the switch block, but have you actually verified its broken.  The reason for asking is, the first 3/4 to 1 inch of travel of the choke lever has virtually NO resistance.  The choke (enrichment circuit) does not become engaged until you push the lever another 1/2 inch more.  The first part of its travel does absolutely NOTHING to enrich the carbs, you gotta push like you are gonna break it to get any enrichment for cold starting. Most of the time no choke is needed anyway.....mine has cob-webs on it....

[Breeze]

Hey Breeze, in an emergency you can access the choke/enrichner linkage on the left side right below the cap on #1 carb,, if you pull it forward (towards the front of the bike) with a screwdriver or pair of needlenose, it will operate all six of the carbs.

After getting down and looking up underneath the cover, I see what you mean. Thanks for your help. It is appreciated.

[Breeze]

I understand you believe the cable to be broken inside the switch block, but have you actually verified its broken.  The reason for asking is, the first 3/4 to 1 inch of travel of the choke lever has virtually NO resistance.  The choke (enrichment circuit) does not become engaged until you push the lever another 1/2 inch more.  The first part of its travel does absolutely NOTHING to enrich the carbs, you gotta push like you are gonna break it to get any enrichment for cold starting. Most of the time no choke is needed anyway.....mine has cob-webs on it....

Yes I am sure. I took the two screws out of the switch case and took it apart. It is frayed and broken. When I pull on the other connecting end I can pull it inside the outer tubing. Thanks for the heads up and all the help. I have one ordered and am thinking of a "New Improved" version that will be mounted under the tank. If I can come up with a reliable replacement that doesn't use a cable that Honda charges $25.00 for.  P.S. Mine will be free, and all you will need to do is to repeat the process.

[pancho]

There is a good chance that it broke because all the linkage slides, cables springs and hardware may need cleaned and re-lubricated,, you know, being too stiff and causing a great load on that end of the cable.  The slides on either side slide on some little plastic "washers" that are prone to get dirty over time.

[John Schmidt]

.....is oem the only way to go?  thanks

In a word....NO! Here's what I did when I installed Harley controls, thereby losing the choke control. I've had it on there for 8-9 years with no trouble. If interested, I'll post drawings and an explanation. The lever with the black knob is just pulled back, pivoting on bolt in its center. That in turn moves the slider forward, same action you get when using the OEM choke and it operates the cable going to the right side same as before.

Under construction/installation.


Completed and functional.

[R J]

John, I thought some time back you were going to make up some kits to sell & we put on like yours?

Anyway, I is still a waitin if ya are.   LOL.

RJ.

[Fla. Jim]

Mine  broke about 6 yrs ago. Finaly got a new cable this Christmas. I just used a 45 cal bullet for a spacer on the the choke/enrichner linkage when needed, case side down, fits right into the niche

[justintyper]

.....is oem the only way to go?  thanks

In a word....NO! Here's what I did when I installed Harley controls, thereby losing the choke control. I've had it on there for 8-9 years with no trouble. If interested, I'll post drawings and an explanation. The lever with the black knob is just pulled back, pivoting on bolt in its center. That in turn moves the slider forward, same action you get when using the OEM choke and it operates the cable going to the right side same as before.

Under construction/installation.


Completed and functional.

i'd be interested to see exactly how you put this together mine just broke in the same place as OP and i'd rather eliminate the cable.

[Breeze]

Drawing please. I wanted to do something like this, but yours looks better. If you could send it or post it i would appreciate it.  Great idea btw. Thanks

[John Schmidt]

OK, here ya go. RJ, I did some pricing for the SS material I'd need to make just a few. Short story: Too expensive so the price I'd have to charge would be prohibitive. If I can find a reasonale source, then maybe. Also would be nice to have access to someone with a laser cutting machine, then I'd have them cut out a handfull of the parts. Now for the explanation.

I've included the approx. sizes of the various parts needed to make this. I bought the SS material from West Marine(link below), comes in various widths and lengths and is polished...and pricey. It needs to have some thickness so it will not bend. To start, go to Shop Talk and click on the microfiche link near the top, then down to screen #20, item #10....carb breakdown. #10 is the rod that goes the full length of the carb bank and holds them together. If you look at the front of that rod(by the radiator) you'll see a nut...back it off as much as possible without removing it. Then tap on the end of the rod and it will poke out a slight amount at the back end, giving just enough room under the nut on the back end to mount the "L" bracket. Use some locktite when you tighten it down. With the picture, you can create the pieces needed and drill accordingly, be sure to test fit before drilling. The second picture shows the actuating piece that is bolted to the choke slider. Drill two small holes in that SS arm first, use small bolts with nylok nuts when you fasten it down. Lay a towel over the carbs below, lay the SS arm on the slider and mark where the holes are to be drilled in it, then drill. I also used locktite on those two little bolts as well. Look closely at the shape of that actuator in the picture, you'll see I had to grind some extended notches on both sides to clear adjacent parts. When you assemble the moving parts, use nylock nuts and some washers between the pieces. By using the nylock nuts, you can tighten the pivot points down to a spot that gives just enough drag so the lever will stay where you put it. I installed mine quite a few years ago...maybe 8-9 at least. It has never loosened up or fallen apart. And I don't have to worry about breaking the cable coming from the handlebar. All you will need to do is open the switch housing and remove the OEM choke cable and leave the OEM lever in place. The large pieces of SS are 3/4" wide as I recall, the smaller one bolted to the slider is 1/2". It's been a while so don't recall exactly, just keep in mind you don't need to use SS...anything will do. I just wanted to keep it shiney.  

Hope this gives you all enough guidance to make your own. It's really easy to use, easy to reach from being seated, and is trouble free. Plus I think it looks kinda cool.  

http://www.westmarine.com/schaefer--stainless-steel-tangs--P002_060_007_003

[Breeze]

Thanks. That is a great idea. I am making mine today. Thanks again

[R J]

Thanks. That is a great idea. I am making mine today. Thanks again

Breeze, make 2 and I'll buy one from ya.

[Breeze]

Thanks. That is a great idea. I am making mine today. Thanks again

Breeze, make 2 and I'll buy one from ya.

   Mine is already made. I will make one for you, but for free. The only thing is you will need to drill three holes in your bike to mount it. I had some 1/8 inch billet aluminum and made it out of that. You will need to order the stainless swing arm, the knob, and the l bracket . is yours a 97 ?

[R J]

Thanks. That is a great idea. I am making mine today. Thanks again

Breeze, make 2 and I'll buy one from ya.

   Mine is already made. I will make one for you, but for free. The only thing is you will need to drill three holes in your bike to mount it. I had some 1/8 inch billet aluminum and made it out of that. You will need to order the stainless swing arm, the knob, and the l bracket . is yours a 97 ?

Yes sir it is a 97...........    Early one..........

PM me for my snail mail addy, & or my email addy also..