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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #40 on: June 14, 2014, 07:50:27 PM » |
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Anyone know how to get your member number?
On the homepage click member search and put what info you know . You are #33521 |
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Troystg
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« Reply #41 on: June 15, 2014, 05:58:03 AM » |
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Thank you Meathead!!
Now to try pictures again...
Troy
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« Reply #42 on: June 15, 2014, 06:01:39 AM » |
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Test pic addition.. Starting to reassemble the bike after cleaning, removing the trunk, making a ghetto brake light (pic to follow soon) and changing the rear signals to LED turn / running(which will require a flasher or diode) and clear lenses. .jpg) |
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« Last Edit: June 15, 2014, 06:03:41 AM by Troystg »
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« Reply #43 on: June 15, 2014, 10:33:16 AM » |
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Was going to lunch and decided to bring the battery to Autozone and have them test it just so I could rule that one out.
They put it on a tester and said it only had one volt.. I said really? May I see that? They showed me the meter and it was 1 A.. For AMP not volt. Switched to volts and was 12.7 VDC.. But no current capacity what so ever.
They did a return / purchase and gave me a new battery.
I came home, set it up with the acid, let it cool (it got warm when I poured in the acid) and put it on the charger for the 1-3 hours the manual called for.
So I will have a new, fresh battery but I would still like to check for hydro-lock before I try to turn her over with plenty of juice.
Will pull the outer plugs in a few..
As for bump or push starting.. The bike is in my garage where there is a slop up to get there from the road. I don't feel comfortable push starting it in the garage and I am not nearly strong enough to push it up the drive if it didn't start. So unless I have assistance I will have to forgo the bump / push start.
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Troy
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #44 on: June 15, 2014, 11:54:50 AM » |
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Was going to lunch and decided to bring the battery to Autozone and have them test it just so I could rule that one out.
They put it on a tester and said it only had one volt.. I said really? May I see that? They showed me the meter and it was 1 A.. For AMP not volt. Switched to volts and was 12.7 VDC.. But no current capacity what so ever.
They did a return / purchase and gave me a new battery.
I came home, set it up with the acid, let it cool (it got warm when I poured in the acid) and put it on the charger for the 1-3 hours the manual called for.
So I will have a new, fresh battery but I would still like to check for hydro-lock before I try to turn her over with plenty of juice.
Will pull the outer plugs in a few..
As for bump or push starting.. The bike is in my garage where there is a slop up to get there from the road. I don't feel comfortable push starting it in the garage and I am not nearly strong enough to push it up the drive if it didn't start. So unless I have assistance I will have to forgo the bump / push start.
Good thinking on the push starting. 2 or 3 years ago my battery went dead, no problem I thought I live on a hill just get her rolling and start. WRONG, I flooded it and it didn't start had to push it up hill for 2 blocks. I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN  |
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Troystg
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« Reply #45 on: June 15, 2014, 03:35:04 PM » |
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She's alive!!! She's alive!!!!
Was a dead battery. :-(
New battery bought in April.. Dead.
Now to get a flasher or diodes for the rear LED lights..
Happy Father's day everyone!!
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Troy
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Troystg
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« Reply #46 on: June 16, 2014, 09:16:26 AM » |
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OK so after sleeping on it I don't think a flasher will solve my issue. I "think" the issue will be with the common LEDs and not the low draw..
The led lights that I used has 3 wires. Black the ground, Orange the low intensity and Red being bright.
Currently I have blk to grnd, Orange to the running lights( license plate bulb) and the red to the turn signals..
But after thinking more on it I would bet that the same LEDs are used for both low and high with only a resistor dropping the voltage on the Orange lead... I will see if there is a diode in / on the LED lights and see if there is any continuity between the orange and red leads in either direction.
Anyone else do something similar? Experiences?
Thanks again,
Troy
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« Reply #47 on: June 16, 2014, 04:52:54 PM » |
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Troy
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #48 on: June 16, 2014, 06:05:29 PM » |
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Yeah not to be critical but that is not really elegant. |
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Troystg
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« Reply #49 on: June 17, 2014, 02:57:32 AM » |
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Agreed but it makes it street legal until I decide what I want. I was able to find the brake light assembly on ebay for the last Valk but apparently they are all gone now.
Was debating a lighted license plate but I think I want more and brighter than that.
Suggestions?
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Troy
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #50 on: June 17, 2014, 05:31:14 AM » |
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Agreed but it makes it street legal until I decide what I want. I was able to find the brake light assembly on ebay for the last Valk but apparently they are all gone now.
Was debating a lighted license plate but I think I want more and brighter than that.
Suggestions?
They have come up on our classifieds occasionally . |
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Paxton
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« Reply #51 on: June 17, 2014, 11:08:06 AM » |
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J. Paxton Gomez
1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8
1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8
1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer
2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider
So Cal... 91205
"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
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Troystg
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« Reply #52 on: June 22, 2014, 09:01:36 AM » |
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Paxton-
That is great and just what I needed. Thanks!
Troy
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« Reply #53 on: June 22, 2014, 09:37:43 AM » |
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The more perceptive will realize that I am keeping all the issues and projects on "my" bike in this thread until I finish setting it up for me.
Thank you to those that have helped and I promise to return the favor whenever I can.
The last issue I had was the battery was no good and I swapped it out with a new one.
Well the new one started the bike but I still couldn't ride it because of the rear running and brake lights were gone from removing the trunk.
After the week of the new battery in the bike and the new Black & Decker 2amp charger keeping it topped off yesterday the bike would not turn over again.
1. The battery WAS good as I bought it new, set it up and tested it the same day.
2. Now the battery is too weak to turn the starter.
3. Battery still has >12.5 VDC but can't supply sufficient current.
4. Appears something is draining the battery. Partial short or through an "ignition off" load like a stuck relay or something.
5. When the ignition switch is off does it isolate the positive side of the battery? That would require a relay, anyone know if there is one?
6. The left turn signal fast flashes. Want to fix with OEM part not electronic flasher if possible and find the culprit (wiring, switch, flasher, etc.)
7. This means I will likely have to remove the battery tray to trace all of the wiring and look / test for continuity / shorts. Anyone do that? Not something I am looking forward to.
After thinking it was the LED signals I put in the rear I went back to the OEM signals and factory wiring to the rear lights. Left signal still fast flashes and I am very confident it is not something I did on the rear of the bike. Will check where I cut off the wires to the trailer harness but I taped them up well to prevent shorts. May have a sharp piece poking through the Scotch super 33+ somewhere but will confirm that later today.
Thanks again and I can't wait to get the Valk finished to actually go ride her.
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pancho
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« Reply #54 on: June 23, 2014, 12:34:32 PM » |
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Troy, if something is draining the battery, you are going to need to start at ground zero with electrical troubleshooting 101. You need to get an amp meter, (basic function of a multimeter) and put it between the battery positive, or negative terminal and the associated cable so you can see the current flow. Then, start disconnecting things per the wiring diagram until you find what is drawing the current. I would start with the 55 amp link and see if the alternator is the culprit.
There is no use looking for a "likely suspect" and just start changing stuff, (a huge waste of time and resources) you need to be able to see the current flow, and first it must be verified that there is a load on the battery with the key off. There is no substitute for an amp meter for this.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Troystg
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« Reply #55 on: June 24, 2014, 05:15:11 AM » |
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I used my Fluke 87 and checked the "residual leakage" (sounds weird) as per page 16-6 in the shop manual.. With the current depleted battery I was sitting directly on .1 amps of current.. The manual specified limit. This weekend I will get another new battery (which will be stored OFF the bike) and try isolating circuits via the fuses and look for the culprit branch..
I am capable of completely rewiring the bike, the issue is do I want to.. I don't have any of my good tools nor my good wire.
This weekend I hope be able to spend enough time on the bike to resolve this issue and get back to riding..
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« Last Edit: June 24, 2014, 05:16:54 AM by Troystg »
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pancho
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« Reply #56 on: June 24, 2014, 06:12:50 AM » |
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If you know how to use your fluke and understand wiring (which it sounds like you do), you will find it quickly and it will be just one thing. Removing the fuses is a good way to isolate the problem Troy, good idea, I have no doubt you will track it down now that you know what you are looking for. Don't forget about the alternator as it is always connected to the battery through the 55 amp link. It can have a current back flow under certain failure scenarios. I certainly don't think you will need to rewire the bike, so no problem not having your specialized tools. Your Fluke 87 is an accurate meter, so while the manual may state that .1 amp "residual leakage" is within the acceptable limits, it is way too much to be letting the bike set for any period of time.
Good luck on finding the problem FAST.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Troystg
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« Reply #57 on: June 24, 2014, 05:51:05 PM » |
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pancho
Thank you for the reply.
All-
Sorry if I sound frustrated it is not with the forum or any members.. What started out as a simple trunk removal and bike cleaning project has gone amiss due to the battery drain issue.. NOT something I wanted during riding season but it IS my fault for being impatient and starting the trunk removal now instead of waiting until winter.
I did the current checks and found that it is the radio and backup fuse drawing the current while the ignition is off. The radio is off the bike so it can't be the radio so I think I should be looking at clock and the other circuits that work on that fuse.
Thanks again,
Troy
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« Reply #58 on: June 28, 2014, 11:36:45 AM » |
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Paxton.. Ordered the light today.. Thanks again because I would have never found those. Troy |
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Troystg
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« Reply #59 on: June 28, 2014, 11:48:33 AM » |
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Got the bike up and running today. Was the second battery and the trickle charger.. "set up" the second battery and put it on the trickle charger to charge and the charger didn't supply any current to charge it.
Went and had Autozone set up another new battery and charge it and it worked fine. But I bought a charger / jump starter also to ensure if it is drained on the bike I can at least jump the bike on the charger.
The Left turn signal issue was also sorted.. While I was working on the bike my Lovely and talented wife asked why the left light was brighter than the right. I went look and touched the housing and it was VERY warm.. I knew something was amiss.. Realized when I pulled out the bulb to put in the LED's I must have "flipped" the bulb and the running / turn filaments were backwards. Flipped the bulb again and all is well. Returning the electronic flasher and will leave alone until the new rear tail light assembly arrives.
I ordered a new assembly from ebay and when that arrives I will install it and test, then swap out the run / turn signals with LEDs.
Once that is finished I will take off the front fairing and change the lights to LEDs, change the front speakers, add rear speakers and add the amp.
Going for a ride this evening to test her out. If all is well will try to meet a fellow VRCC rider in Maryland next weekend for a lunch ride.
Hope everyone is having a wonderful Saturday.
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« Reply #60 on: June 29, 2014, 07:03:32 PM » |
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The old girl is working and I just came in from a ride with the wife. Even she said it was nice to be back on the bike...
On next weekend (July 4th weekend) I hope to spend a few days riding if there is anyone in the No. VA / DC / MD area that wants to go for a ride.
Troy
PS, I didn't realize that deleting the photos in photostash would delete them from the posts.. I guess I will try to redo all of them this week if I can. I deleted them since I read that we had limited space in photostash.
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pancho
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« Reply #61 on: June 29, 2014, 08:00:27 PM » |
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If you start an account at Photobucket or a similar place Troy, you can leave you pictures there forever and link them to the postings here. It is a free service and with a lot of space and the ability to make multiple folders, you can organize all your digital photos there and have quick access to them for attachments or sending to other places.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Troystg
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« Reply #62 on: July 01, 2014, 05:06:20 AM » |
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Well now on to the next issue...
Oil on the front right shock absorber... Ordered the seal mate tools and awaiting delivery.
However when l compress the front shocks I hear a low distinct double knock. Sounds like:
dock..dock
Heavy metal damped thud.
Since I don't have a puddle of oil on the ground I assume not all of it leaked out so that would explain the damped sound but what could be making the sound?
Any suggestions before I bring it to the dealership and drop >$500? I wouldn't be comfortable riding the bike making that sound as I know it is abnormal and in no way good for the bike.
Also if have work done I am considering the progressive springs.. Anyone have them and care to share their opinion?
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Troy
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #63 on: July 01, 2014, 07:34:55 AM » |
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Well now on to the next issue...
Oil on the front right shock absorber... Ordered the seal mate tools and awaiting delivery.
However when l compress the front shocks I hear a low distinct double knock. Sounds like:
dock..dock
Heavy metal damped thud.
Since I don't have a puddle of oil on the ground I assume not all of it leaked out so that would explain the damped sound but what could be making the sound?
Any suggestions before I bring it to the dealership and drop >$500? I wouldn't be comfortable riding the bike making that sound as I know it is abnormal and in no way good for the bike.
Also if have work done I am considering the progressive springs.. Anyone have them and care to share their opinion?
That noise may not be from the forks. Could be a number of things (the front floating brakes, etc.). I don't think it's a problem, I've had fork leaks before with lots of oil coming out and no problems. If you have some 35mm negatives you can fix it now without waiting for the sealmate. |
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Troystg
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« Reply #64 on: July 04, 2014, 01:42:43 PM » |
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With Paxtons help I was able to take off the Ghetto brake light and put on something more appropriate. .jpg) .jpg) Thank you again Paxton for the links. |
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« Reply #65 on: July 16, 2014, 03:03:31 AM » |
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wingrider02
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« Reply #66 on: July 16, 2014, 06:32:09 AM » |
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Jbweld will work for you...need to pry mine out so I can do the same to it.
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #67 on: July 16, 2014, 10:05:02 AM » |
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Jbweld will work for you...need to pry mine out so I can do the same to it.
 Just did exactly that. The JB works well. Make sure you keep the thread passage clean/free of the resin. |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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Troystg
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« Reply #68 on: July 16, 2014, 04:02:33 PM » |
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I will pick some up this week and do that while I am installing the amp and Polks... Thanks!!
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Troystg
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« Reply #69 on: July 20, 2014, 06:54:18 AM » |
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I think I may have gotten the "Goldwing" edition as my cones are gold... .jpg) |
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Troystg
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« Reply #70 on: August 16, 2014, 07:15:08 PM » |
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Broke down and paid a local shop to cut the holes in the saddlebags for the rears. My Jasper circle jig and router are still in storage and I wasn't going to buy new ones so I paid someone else. 6.5" mid-woofers to fill in the 800Hz and below. They should roll off about 1KHz so the sound stage should still be primarily in the front. If it doesn't work out I will change them to 6.5" two ways. I had these from a previous project and they are disposable.    |
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Paxton
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« Reply #71 on: August 17, 2014, 08:26:23 AM » |
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It looks very kool! How do you protect the speakers from moisture?  |
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J. Paxton Gomez
1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8
1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8
1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer
2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider
So Cal... 91205
"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
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Troystg
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« Reply #72 on: August 17, 2014, 01:22:00 PM » |
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It looks very kool! How do you protect the speakers from moisture? Thanks! Unlike teenagers no protection needed.. Poly cones, rubber surrounds and the top gasket is foam rubber. They are water "proof" but more importantly @ $20 a pair they are disposable. I can change them every season if I need to. Just finished installing them and they are working. I am going for a ride and will see how they sound. Be right back... |
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Troy
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Flrider
Member
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Jack
Kissimmee FL
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« Reply #73 on: August 17, 2014, 09:32:18 PM » |
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Just finished installing them and they are working. I am going for a ride and will see how they sound. Be right back...
So, how did the sound check go? |
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Troystg
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« Reply #74 on: August 18, 2014, 05:20:42 AM » |
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Just finished installing them and they are working. I am going for a ride and will see how they sound. Be right back...
So, how did the sound check go? Limited success. They work and play but the combination of the low signal input combined with them being 8 ohm mid-basses means they don't get started until the polks are blaring. Possible solutions: 1. Get a plug for the rear outputs from the radio to use the built in reader and turn down the fronts. 2. Change the amp to one with front and rear gain controls. This was a previously mentioned short coming of the Kenwood. 3. Scrap the mid-bass idea and use full range co-ax's in the back too. I'll try to go with option 1 first then option 3. |
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Troystg
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« Reply #75 on: August 25, 2014, 03:05:20 AM » |
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Semi-final success. I removed and replaced the 8 Ohm inefficient mid-basses with a 4 Ohm more efficient mid-bass from a component set. Now you can hear the rear speakers sooner. I would still like to find a rear speaker plug to utilize the fader function in the radio... .jpg) |
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Troy
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Flrider
Member
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Jack
Kissimmee FL
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« Reply #76 on: August 25, 2014, 07:34:32 AM » |
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GREAT!!! Keep those updates coming |
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fordmano
Member
Posts: 1457
San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05
San Jose, CA.
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« Reply #77 on: August 26, 2014, 03:14:59 AM » |
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You can thank me later,,,,LOL! Here is the rear speaker connection wire harness. http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_speaker.htm |
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  83GS550 93XR650L TARD! 97WR250 99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone 01YZ125(x2) 05DRZ-125 |
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Troystg
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« Reply #78 on: September 05, 2014, 06:01:48 PM » |
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Big thanks to Chris for selling me the rear speaker plug and the left pod...
I looked on my PDF copy of the service manual but I can't read the writing on the wiring schematics.. It is too blurry.
Would any one know the color code for the rear speaker wires? Which is left positive (L+) which is right positive (R+)? and one of the negative leads..
Thank you in advance,
Troy
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BonS
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« Reply #79 on: September 05, 2014, 06:38:25 PM » |
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I don't have a direct answer to your question, Troy, but maybe this will help: The color codes for the front and rear speakers are the same. The right front/rear is brown and red. The left front/rear is blue/grey. This doesn't answer the polarity issue however that can be figured out a couple of ways. One is to inspect the front speakers for polarity markings and wire the rears for the same polarity.
Another method that I resort to from time-to-time is to use a 1.5 volt battery to determine a speakers polarity. The cone moves in or out depending on the polarity of the battery as you touch it to the speaker terminals. (Be sure to disconnect the speaker before doing this test.) Mark the terminal that causes the speaker cone to extend as + when the positive side of the battery is briefly connected.
Looking at the Clymer schematic I can't be sure that either of the speaker wires is actually a ground. The audio output circuit may be a push-pull configuration and as such there isn't a true ground on any of the audio wires.
And you're right, the pdf of the shop manual is way too low a resolution to be deciphered.
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