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Author Topic: audiovox cc help  (Read 978 times)
fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


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« on: May 22, 2014, 12:38:38 PM »

Last yr i noticed sometimes it would work. Dont seem to this yr. Turns on but dont hold speed. Dont engage. No idea where to look.
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VRCC-#7196
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2014, 01:09:48 PM »

Check your brake circuit as unit grounds thru purple wire tried into brake system after switches. the unit grounds thru the brake element and if the bulb is bad or the bulb has power to it. (bad switch) it will not engage.
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Novavalker
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Posts: 625


99 Interstate/2017 Goldwing


« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2014, 01:25:14 PM »

You can buy replacement parts here:

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2014, 03:15:55 PM »

Mine did the same thing on one trip. Finally got tired of it kicking out for no apparent reason so hit a rest stop and started looking. Found the ground wire for the brake circuit had some how pulled off the relay and was just laying there, barely touching the post. Used some pliers, squeezed the push-on connector, then pressed in on the ground post of the relay. Problem solved. That was about eight yrs. ago and it's never given trouble since.
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Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


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« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2014, 07:36:13 PM »

I have had to replace several sevros in the past 15 years they seem to go bad after awhile. I think it is the manifold inside the servo that goes bad. I put on a new servo and everything is fine for a few years.
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quexpress
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Montreal, Québec, Canada


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« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2014, 06:55:50 AM »

Last yr i noticed sometimes it would work. Dont seem to this yr. Turns on but dont hold speed. Dont engage. No idea where to look.
Mine did that for a while (few seasons) and eventually cut out.
I changed the switch, checked the wiring, the brake light relay, etc. but this didn't work.
I swapped the servo last week ... and it now works. Hopefully your problem is the switch or the wiring.  Smiley
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2014, 01:26:45 PM »

Ok new prob. I set it and it worked on my trip. Coming home I tried it and nothing. 1/2 hr later I tried it and soon as I hit 'on', a sec later the bike takes off. I didnt even hit set, just the on button. Freaked me out cause the throttle just pulled outta my hands.  Shocked
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2014, 02:06:57 PM »

Fudgie, time to get your delicate little fingers out and get em dirty.

I had to pull my switch apart and clean it.

Oh was that grease in there cruddy.

However, mine is the Australia one, in fact I just came in the house from fixing it.

Cleaned the switch, took it out and run it up to 80 and set the button.    She held for 48 miles, that was when I exited and turned around to head for home.

Brought the 2 laners home and I would have to hit the brake every so often.   Would knock it off, get out of the situation and punch resume, varroom off she would go.

I'm happy now.   On mine was a little slit in the back end of it.    Put a small screwdriver in there and twisted it oh so lightly.    Watch for little springs and stuff.     If ya loose any parts, that Murph sales has a very good replacement switch.    Just a pain in the ass changing wires between the two.    Ya have to cut them staggered, put a heat shrink over the switch part and a larger & longer size one over the bike end, be sure and cut the bike ones to match the switch staggered wires so as to not have a huge bundle of soldered wires.    Twist the 2 wires together, bike vs new switch, and then solder.  When ya have all wires solder with the initial heat shrink, then pull the longer larger heat shrink down and heat it up.   Hopefully you cut this one long enough to cover all solder joints.

Happy Trails Bro.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2014, 02:19:06 PM by R J » Logged

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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2014, 02:14:26 PM »

There is a diagnostic LED inside the cover of the actuator. Simply remove two small screws to remove the cover and then:

First, you can use it to tell if your buttons are working - that is, the On, Off, Set, and Resume buttons on the control pad.
Turn on your bike (but don't start it) and press the "On" button on the cruise control switch pad, the main unit is energized.
Press the Set button and watch the LED inside the main unit. If it turns on and then off, your Set button is working.
Press the Resume button and watch the LED inside the main unit. If it turns on and then off, your Set button is working.
Press the Off button and press any button. The LED should not light because the whole unit is now off.

Second, Start the bike, press the "On" button to enable cruise, and watch the LED. It should be flashing in response to engine RPM. Rev the engine and you'll see the light blink faster.
If the LED is not flashing then your engine-speed pickup isn't working.
If it does, you have a good connection to your tach, coil, or whatever you're using for the engine speed.

Hope this helps.
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nogrey
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Nampa, Idaho


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« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2014, 03:11:43 PM »

Ok new prob. I set it and it worked on my trip. Coming home I tried it and nothing. 1/2 hr later I tried it and soon as I hit 'on', a sec later the bike takes off. I didnt even hit set, just the on button. Freaked me out cause the throttle just pulled outta my hands.  Shocked
Where are you getting your servos?
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2014, 03:57:18 PM »

Ok new prob. I set it and it worked on my trip. Coming home I tried it and nothing. 1/2 hr later I tried it and soon as I hit 'on', a sec later the bike takes off. I didnt even hit set, just the on button. Freaked me out cause the throttle just pulled outta my hands.  Shocked
Where are you getting your servos?

I dont remember Its been on the bike for 10 yrs I guess.  crazy2
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2014, 04:18:36 PM »

First, you can use it to tell if your buttons are working - that is, the On, Off, Set, and Resume buttons on the control pad.
Turn on your bike (but don't start it) and press the "On" button on the cruise control switch pad, the main unit is energized.
Press the Set button and watch the LED inside the main unit. If it turns on and then off, your Set button is working.
Press the Resume button and watch the LED inside the main unit. If it turns on and then off, your Set button is working.
Press the Off button and press any button. The LED should not light because the whole unit is now off.

Second, Start the bike, press the "On" button to enable cruise, and watch the LED. It should be flashing in response to engine RPM. Rev the engine and you'll see the light blink faster.
With the LED in the set & resume mode it does flash but never stops. It does flash faster as RPM's increase.

Bad servo?  ???
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2014, 05:32:51 PM »

With the motor NOT running and the cruise control turned ON then the LED lights when a button is pressed and turns off when a button is released.

Flashing happens only when the motor is running and it will flash as long as the motor is running. The flash rate follows the engine rpm.
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.

Huntington Indiana


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« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2014, 06:16:51 PM »

With the motor NOT running and the cruise control turned ON then the LED lights when a button is pressed and turns off when a button is released.

Flashing happens only when the motor is running and it will flash as long as the motor is running. The flash rate follows the engine rpm.


Motor not running, it flashes. Does not stop.
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Now you're in the world of the wolves...
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VRCC-#7196
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #14 on: May 29, 2014, 07:08:42 PM »

That's too bad. There isn't any known diagnostic condition that causes this that I know about. There's little doubt that a malfunctioning cruise control could ruin your day. I'd kill the power to it until it passes the LED diagnostic tests. It may be the servo module or (I'd say way less likely) the switch module. If I had to bet I'd bet on the servo as the failed part because it's the most complex.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #15 on: May 30, 2014, 07:04:40 AM »

Is your bike an I/S or Tourer/Std.? I have a Tourer(now with a fairing), and I noticed the wiring from the control panel had a connector just far enough down the handlebars that it was still open to the elements. I removed that connector and hard wired the connection together, making sure each soldered connection was well insulated from the elements. I then made my harness disconnect down under the seat nearer the servo. If your harness below the control panel is in the open, it's entirely possible you have collected said "elements" thereby causing your headache. I believe that connector is far enough away from the controller that it's protected by the fairing on an I/S, but not so with the Tourer/Std. installation.

In the past I've talked to riders with Tourers/Stds. and was told they never had such a problem and weren't about to change things now. I simply suggested it's much like running out of gas; you're doing great until the last drop is gone. With that connector in the open, you're doing great until.....
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Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


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« Reply #16 on: May 30, 2014, 07:19:30 PM »

You can buy a new replacement  servo unit for 80.00 here is a link

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=422
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