Best way to remove rear wheel 98 Valkyrie 1500C

[greggo]

What is the easiest way to remove the rear wheel?  do you have to take the exhaust loose? I have never had to remove the rear wheel and I think $80 is to much to pay for that service.  I want to have a new tire installed.

Thanks

[Quicksilver]

If you have a motorcycle jack and can lift the bike securely on it, removing the shocks allows enough motion on the rear wheel for you to raise and lower the rear wheel to permit access to the axle bolt. If you have a proper manual it will tell you the sequence and torque required to reinstall. Dag has a nice video showing this procedure.
It would be advisable for you to get into it yourself, the chief reason being while you have the rear wheel off you can continue and remove the final drive unit to check the driveshaft and lubrication of the splines. I do not remove my exhaust for any of the rear end work.

[sandy]

If you put a home town and state, you might get someone local to come over and help.

[PAVALKER]

You could download the manual at Dags website.

I jack up the bike and after removing the saddle bags with the inside bolts, I remove the exhaust nuts that hold the pipes in on the rear near the swingarm and nothing else on the exhaust.  I do wedge a screwdriver in between the exhaust and that hangar to shim a nut I between to pull/hold the studs out permitting more room so the swing  arm can swing.   You will have to remove the rear caliper and the bolt that holds the hydraulic line to the swing arm.  Then support the rear wheel with a jack and adjust accordingly to remove the lower shock bolts, the caliper plate bolt and the axle nut.  Note the order in which the axle spacer and caliper plate comes out.   Raise bike, lower wheel and ....shazam .  Well, pretty much at least.

I do not remove the shocks, just the lower bolts, so the swing arm can swing.  I remove and install the axle from under the pipes not on top.  I push or pull the axle out and then in.... I don't use a hammer or mallet to remove or replace the axle, push or pull.... I don't want to hammer on bearings or races as it goes thru..... But a little love tap shouldn't hurt.  And a little grease on the axle works wonders to lubricate its movement in and out.  And... What some might consider a cardinal sin... I do not loosen or adjust the final drive bolts..... But I do check and lube the final drive and splines.

Here is Dags video on how to..    http://www.valkyrienorway.com/RWRemoval.html

Here is the manual for download...  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[The emperor has no clothes]

You could download the manual at Dags website.

I jack up the bike and after removing the saddle bags with the inside bolts, I remove the exhaust nuts that hold the pipes in on the rear near the swingarm and nothing else on the exhaust.  I do wedge a screwdriver in between the exhaust and that hangar to shim a nut I between to pull/hold the studs out permitting more room so the swing  arm can swing.   You will have to remove the rear caliper and the bolt that holds the hydraulic line to the swing arm.  Then support the rear wheel with a jack and adjust accordingly to remove the lower shock bolts, the caliper plate bolt and the axle nut.  Note the order in which the axle spacer and caliper plate comes out.   Raise bike, lower wheel and ....shazam .  Well, pretty much at least.

I do not remove the shocks, just the lower bolts, so the swing arm can swing.  I remove and install the axle from under the pipes not on top.  I push or pull the axle out and then in.... I don't use a hammer or mallet to remove or replace the axle, push or pull.... I don't want to hammer on bearings or races as it goes thru..... But a little love tap shouldn't hurt.  And a little grease on the axle works wonders to lubricate its movement in and out.  And... What some might consider a cardinal sin... I do not loosen or adjust the final drive bolts..... But I do check and lube the final drive and splines.

Here is Dags video on how to..    http://www.valkyrienorway.com/RWRemoval.html

Here is the manual for download...  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Yep that is a cardinal sin

[PAVALKER]

You could download the manual at Dags website.

I jack up the bike and after removing the saddle bags with the inside bolts, I remove the exhaust nuts that hold the pipes in on the rear near the swingarm and nothing else on the exhaust.  I do wedge a screwdriver in between the exhaust and that hangar to shim a nut I between to pull/hold the studs out permitting more room so the swing  arm can swing.   You will have to remove the rear caliper and the bolt that holds the hydraulic line to the swing arm.  Then support the rear wheel with a jack and adjust accordingly to remove the lower shock bolts, the caliper plate bolt and the axle nut.  Note the order in which the axle spacer and caliper plate comes out.   Raise bike, lower wheel and ....shazam .  Well, pretty much at least.

I do not remove the shocks, just the lower bolts, so the swing arm can swing.  I remove and install the axle from under the pipes not on top.  I push or pull the axle out and then in.... I don't use a hammer or mallet to remove or replace the axle, push or pull.... I don't want to hammer on bearings or races as it goes thru..... But a little love tap shouldn't hurt.  And a little grease on the axle works wonders to lubricate its movement in and out.  And... What some might consider a cardinal sin... I do not loosen or adjust the final drive bolts..... But I do check and lube the final drive and splines.

Here is Dags video on how to..    http://www.valkyrienorway.com/RWRemoval.html

Here is the manual for download...  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Yep that is a cardinal sin

8 years or better and no adverse wear or issues indicated so far.

[R J]

You could download the manual at Dags website.

I jack up the bike and after removing the saddle bags with the inside bolts, I remove the exhaust nuts that hold the pipes in on the rear near the swingarm and nothing else on the exhaust.  I do wedge a screwdriver in between the exhaust and that hangar to shim a nut I between to pull/hold the studs out permitting more room so the swing  arm can swing.   You will have to remove the rear caliper and the bolt that holds the hydraulic line to the swing arm.  Then support the rear wheel with a jack and adjust accordingly to remove the lower shock bolts, the caliper plate bolt and the axle nut.  Note the order in which the axle spacer and caliper plate comes out.   Raise bike, lower wheel and ....shazam .  Well, pretty much at least.

I do not remove the shocks, just the lower bolts, so the swing arm can swing.  I remove and install the axle from under the pipes not on top.  I push or pull the axle out and then in.... I don't use a hammer or mallet to remove or replace the axle, push or pull.... I don't want to hammer on bearings or races as it goes thru..... But a little love tap shouldn't hurt.  And a little grease on the axle works wonders to lubricate its movement in and out.  And... What some might consider a cardinal sin... I do not loosen or adjust the final drive bolts..... But I do check and lube the final drive and splines.

Here is Dags video on how to..    http://www.valkyrienorway.com/RWRemoval.html

Here is the manual for download...  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Yep that is a cardinal sin

8 years or better and no adverse wear or issues indicated so far.

Apparently ya don't have too many miles on the big fat Ghurl.

[PAVALKER]

You could download the manual at Dags website.

I jack up the bike and after removing the saddle bags with the inside bolts, I remove the exhaust nuts that hold the pipes in on the rear near the swingarm and nothing else on the exhaust.  I do wedge a screwdriver in between the exhaust and that hangar to shim a nut I between to pull/hold the studs out permitting more room so the swing  arm can swing.   You will have to remove the rear caliper and the bolt that holds the hydraulic line to the swing arm.  Then support the rear wheel with a jack and adjust accordingly to remove the lower shock bolts, the caliper plate bolt and the axle nut.  Note the order in which the axle spacer and caliper plate comes out.   Raise bike, lower wheel and ....shazam .  Well, pretty much at least.

I do not remove the shocks, just the lower bolts, so the swing arm can swing.  I remove and install the axle from under the pipes not on top.  I push or pull the axle out and then in.... I don't use a hammer or mallet to remove or replace the axle, push or pull.... I don't want to hammer on bearings or races as it goes thru..... But a little love tap shouldn't hurt.  And a little grease on the axle works wonders to lubricate its movement in and out.  And... What some might consider a cardinal sin... I do not loosen or adjust the final drive bolts..... But I do check and lube the final drive and splines.

Here is Dags video on how to..    http://www.valkyrienorway.com/RWRemoval.html

Here is the manual for download...  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Yep that is a cardinal sin

8 years or better and no adverse wear or issues indicated so far.

Apparently ya don't have too many miles on the big fat Ghurl.

35k and had 12k when I got it.  Have other bikes as well, and no all year riding weather like some might have.  I do have a spare final drive and drive shaft sitting on a shelf just in case tho...

[Gavin_Sons]

How do you know there is no adverse wear  if you dont take it apart to look?  I take all of mine apart every year for new grease and o rings. Axel even comes out to be inspected, all the old grease cleaned off and new grease applied.

[PAVALKER]

How do you know there is no adverse wear  if you dont take it apart to look?  I take all of mine apart every year for new grease and o rings. Axel even comes out to be inspected, all the old grease cleaned off and new grease applied.

What adverse wear would you expect me to find by just loosening the  4 final drive nuts?  Of course I inspect the flange and where it slides inside, check o rings and apply copious amounts of moly prior to re installing the rear wheel.  Are you saying that you disassemble your complete final drive and drive shaft  Every year?    Of course my axle comes out when I remove the wheel.... As it does when most everyone does...kinda hard to get that darn wheel off otherwise.  Yep, I look at the axle, wipe it off and apply a coat of grease on that as well.

Do you pull the rear end or axles out of your car or truck every time you change a tire as well?  You must be a very busy man.   

[The emperor has no clothes]

How do you know there is no adverse wear  if you dont take it apart to look?  I take all of mine apart every year for new grease and o rings. Axel even comes out to be inspected, all the old grease cleaned off and new grease applied.

What adverse wear would you expect me to find by just loosening the  4 final drive nuts?  Of course I inspect the flange and where it slides inside, check o rings and apply copious amounts of moly prior to re installing the rear wheel.  Are you saying that you disassemble your complete final drive and drive shaft  Every year?    Of course my axle comes out when I remove the wheel.... As it does when most everyone does...kinda hard to get that darn wheel off otherwise.  Yep, I look at the axle, wipe it off and apply a coat of grease on that as well.

Do you pull the rear end or axles out of your car or truck every time you change a tire as well?  You must be a very busy man.   

I think he meant the driveshaft and pinion cup. If you're not checking that occasionally you probably should. That said though I didn't check my standards pinion for the first 47k and it was fine.

[PAVALKER]

How do you know there is no adverse wear  if you dont take it apart to look?  I take all of mine apart every year for new grease and o rings. Axel even comes out to be inspected, all the old grease cleaned off and new grease applied.

What adverse wear would you expect me to find by just loosening the  4 final drive nuts?  Of course I inspect the flange and where it slides inside, check o rings and apply copious amounts of moly prior to re installing the rear wheel.  Are you saying that you disassemble your complete final drive and drive shaft  Every year?    Of course my axle comes out when I remove the wheel.... As it does when most everyone does...kinda hard to get that darn wheel off otherwise.  Yep, I look at the axle, wipe it off and apply a coat of grease on that as well.

Do you pull the rear end or axles out of your car or truck every time you change a tire as well?  You must be a very busy man.   

I think he meant the driveshaft and pinion cup. If you're not checking that occasionally you probably should. That said though I didn't check my standards pinion for the first 47k and it was fine.

I thought maybe that is what he meant as well... But not real sure.  Even so, to do that annually?   The more you mess with something the more likely you are to introduce issues I think. 

And on this Fathers Day I will quote my Father.... "Don't muck with the band while it's playing"

[Gavin_Sons]

I did mean the pinion cup and drive shaft. Yes I check it every year sometimes twice. Might as well when it is all apart, I for one do not like being stranded on the side of the road waiting for someone to come get me when it could have been avoided. But if your process works for you thats great. I was just wondering how you knew there is no wear in the pinion. Up or shaft if it is never checked. We could argue what is the right way to do it til were blue in the face but someone will report soon after our argument that they had a drive line failure, pinion cup and drive shaft needs replaced. These are mechanical and parts will fail, just a matter of time until they do, all we can do is take the extra steps to prolong it.

[olddog1946]

The EASIEST WAY: let some one else do it.
the SMARTEST WAY: learn to do it yourself, and ends in being the BEST way.
 
If you aren't doing your own, you are doing your fat lady a disservice.

[Xtracho]

If you aren't doing your own, you are doing your fat lady a disservice.

I agree with that! 

[Willow]

35k and had 12k when I got it.  Have other bikes as well, and no all year riding weather like some might have.  I do have a spare final drive and drive shaft sitting on a shelf just in case tho...

Gavin's advice is good.

At 23,000 miles in eight years I think you'll be alright on the wear.  I personally would tend to discount your advice as someone who has genuinely tested  the wear results.   

[fudgie]

Are you saying that you disassemble your complete final drive and drive shaft  Every year? 

Yes.

[fudgie]

$80? Heck for that id let someone else do it! I do it every spring and hate it.

[The emperor has no clothes]

$80? Heck for that id let someone else do it! I do it every spring and hate it.

Yeah I'd pay $80 no problem, as long as I knew they were doing it correctly.

[StrikingViking]

What I like about Dag's video is that he jacks the bike up while ON a lift... thereby allowing him to get the rear wheel out without removal of the rear fender.  You also don't have to bend over so much

[Chrisj CMA]

As far as what I recommend, not going to type it. That's why I made the slideshow (in shop talk)

No excuse to delete the removal of the final drive and inspect and grease the drive shaft.  All it takes is for the oil seal to wear out and boom dry rusty splines.  I'd rather find this at home than after a failure on the road.  That's just me.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Kind of sad seeing this old thread. Couple members who passed away on Valkyries.

[StrikingViking]

As far as what I recommend, not going to type it. That's why I made the slideshow (in shop talk)

Found it, Chris.  Thanks for doing that!

[hoosier jaybird]

Jeepers, while you have the drive shaft out checking and relubing the splines pull out the u joint and check that as well. Mine needed replaced at 36K miles. Or you can wait and listen to the "music" while far from the shop.

[ridingron]

I have a little over 300 K (total) miles on 2 Honda ST1100s. I know they are not the same but are very similar.  I brushed a dab of Honda moly 60 grease on the splines when changing the tires. Never loosen the 4 drive shaft nuts or looked for the magical 3 O-rings. Changed the final drive fluid every 50 K miles or so with synthetic fluid.  Never had a problem. Your results may be different.

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a little over 300 K (total) miles on 2 Honda ST1100s. I know they are not the same but are very similar.  I brushed a dab of Honda moly 60 grease on the splines when changing the tires. Never loosen the 4 drive shaft nuts or looked for the magical 3 O-rings. Changed the final drive fluid every 50 K miles or so with synthetic fluid.  Never had a problem. Your results may be different.

Take all the short cuts you want, just remember...final drives in great condition are getting harder to find.  I wrote a letter to mother Honda expressing my dissatisfaction with the moly 60 junk and their choice to basically use the same final drive from the 1100 on a bigger heavier bike..

They called me, thanked me for the letter.  Said I was exactly right.  Soon after that they beefed up the drive for the VTX.  

Use water resistant grease and loosen the four bolts to assure proper alignment if not removing the drive. My small opinion FWIW

[indybobm]

I think that one of the things that make the Valkyrie Final Drive more susceptible to damage from lack of maintenance is the design of the Drive Flange. Other Hondas, such as the VTX1300, VTX1800, ST1300, have a differently designed Drive Flange. They have bearings in the Drive Flange that ride on the axle.  The Valkyrie Drive Flange is supported by the dampers in the wheel and the splines/hub in the ring gear.  As a result, it is free to move around and wobble which promotes wear if it is not lubricated properly.

[Chrisj CMA]

I think that one of the things that make the Valkyrie Final Drive more susceptible to damage from lack of maintenance is the design of the Drive Flange. Other Hondas, such as the VTX1300, VTX1800, ST1300, have a differently designed Drive Flange. They have bearings in the Drive Flange that ride on the axle.  The Valkyrie Drive Flange is supported by the dampers in the wheel and the splines/hub in the ring gear.  As a result, it is free to move around and wobble which promotes wear if it is not lubricated properly.

Exactly. That extra bearing is the “beefing up” I was referring to.

[1NorthRyder]

Anybody know what size the rear axle nut is? I don’t have a socket that size so need to pick one up. It’s the 2000 I/S. I want remove the rear wheel so I can sand and polish it like I did on the front.

[Chrisj CMA]

Anybody know what size the rear axle nut is? I don’t have a socket that size so need to pick one up. It’s the 2000 I/S. I want remove the rear wheel so I can sand and polish it like I did on the front.

27MM or if you only have inch sizes a 1 1/16 will work

[1NorthRyder]

Anybody know what size the rear axle nut is? I don’t have a socket that size so need to pick one up. It’s the 2000 I/S. I want remove the rear wheel so I can sand and polish it like I did on the front.

27MM or if you only have inch sizes a 1 1/16 will work

Thank you.

[clanky]

I just followed Chris's slide show and it was quite easy!

[Chrisj CMA]

I just followed Chris's slide show and it was quite easy!

Very cool, glad that thing is still helping people.   

[Gavin_Sons]

i always mix a little moly paste in with some waterproof marine grease. Usually use the Lucas marine grease.

[Medina]

Look at me! Getting valuable info two years after it was posted SIX years ago!

hi ho, hi ho, its off to the garage I go!

[Chrisj CMA]

Like this

[gordonv]

Look at me! Getting valuable info two years after it was posted SIX years ago!

Its is as relevant today, as it was when first posted. With some further follow ups and maybe some update, is always nice. Even a final outcome to know it all worked out.

Also, all the information in one place on the topic. 

[yrunvs]

Like this

So the bike wont tilt forward when you take the rear wheel off when the bike is jacked up?

[GWS]

Even though I think the answer is "No", I'll ask anyway.... If good final drives for Valkryies are getting harder to find, and the final drives for VTX's and ST1300's are designed better, is there any way to interchange those assemblies onto a Valk?

[Chrisj CMA]

Even though I think the answer is "No", I'll ask anyway.... If good final drives for Valkryies are getting harder to find, and the final drives for VTX's and ST1300's are designed better, is there any way to interchange those assemblies onto a Valk?

The final drive for the VTX is on the other side so nope