Medic
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« on: July 03, 2014, 06:29:55 PM » |
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I have the well known Temp Indicator Light flicker and went to purchase a replacement part (38710-MZ0-003). I've tried ordering from several sites...if the order initially takes I'm informed a few days later that the part is backordered or discontinued  . Last word was from a site that said it was showing back ordered, then they checked and was told that it was discontinued  ! Is there another part number that might be the same part or a work around. I know the girl isnt overheating but the light stays on more frequently now and starting to get annoying. This is the first mechanical / electrical part that Im having trouble locating. 1997 Fast Black Standard.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2014, 06:40:28 PM » |
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I get nothing with that part #, with either a MZo or an MZ0.
How about post a link?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2014, 07:22:03 PM » |
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2014, 09:17:38 PM » |
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Thank you. What I was looking for also was like part # 16.
Know is this the same as on an IS? doesn't look like it. Used is the only option now.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Kep
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Posts: 480
My "Mid-life Crisis "
Indiana
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« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2014, 10:30:16 PM » |
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Medic
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« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2014, 01:23:49 AM » |
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I know, Partzilla was the first site I ordered from. After 2 days they cancelled the order and said in the e-mail it was discontinued.
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blackvalkyrie
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« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2014, 11:47:54 AM » |
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I constantly have the same problem..didn't know it was well know... my honda dealer says there is nothing they can do  I have the well known Temp Indicator Light flicker and went to purchase a replacement part (38710-MZ0-003). I've tried ordering from several sites...if the order initially takes I'm informed a few days later that the part is backordered or discontinued  . Last word was from a site that said it was showing back ordered, then they checked and was told that it was discontinued  ! Is there another part number that might be the same part or a work around. I know the girl isnt overheating but the light stays on more frequently now and starting to get annoying. This is the first mechanical / electrical part that Im having trouble locating. 1997 Fast Black Standard.
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TOPGUN
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Posts: 18
Valkyrie - Dark Side
Cleveland, OH
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« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2014, 05:40:39 PM » |
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I had to buy a used one on eBay a few weeks ago. The I/ S does not use this same part
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TOPGUN
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fantsybikr
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« Reply #8 on: July 05, 2014, 06:00:08 PM » |
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I wouldnt be surprised is almost all replacement parts will soon be discontinued..gotta get those new valks sold!
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VRCCDS 0252 VRCC 26284 GWRRA 329832
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #9 on: July 07, 2014, 05:09:50 AM » |
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Does anyone have a defective used unit that might be opened up, examined and reverse-engineered?
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BonS
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« Reply #10 on: July 07, 2014, 06:28:45 AM » |
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I've read accounts that there is a "documented" conversion from the early temperature sensor to a temperature switch. I've been unable to find it.
By my best guess it involves removing the faulty engine coolant temperature indicator unit (38710-MZ0-003) and installing a wire jumper is required between the Greeen/Blue and the Light Green/Black wires on the connector for the 38710-MZ0-003 underneath the left side-cover.
Also required is replacing the original thermo-sensor with the newer thermo switch. They screw into the same location near the thermostat, are threaded the same, but have different connectors so a little ingenuity is required to get things connected again.
If anyone can provide a link to the previously documented conversion it would certainly help those that need the discontinued ect transmitter and don't want a used one.
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F6Dave
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« Reply #11 on: July 07, 2014, 03:01:58 PM » |
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I replaced the sender on my '98 with the later type. As I remember you need to change the connector on the sender itself, from a spade to a bullet I think. Then you run a jumper between 2 of the contacts in the connector that the old indicator unit plugged into. It was a simple fix. I did it because the new design looked better and simpler.
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8727
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
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« Reply #12 on: July 07, 2014, 03:32:47 PM » |
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I replaced the sender on my '98 with the later type. As I remember you need to change the connector on the sender itself, from a spade to a bullet I think. Then you run a jumper between 2 of the contacts in the connector that the old indicator unit plugged into. It was a simple fix. I did it because the new design looked better and simpler.
Can you do pictures and a drawing, Please?? It may help those in need.
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 Troy, MI
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F6Dave
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« Reply #13 on: July 08, 2014, 11:41:25 AM » |
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I replaced the sender on my '98 with the later type. As I remember you need to change the connector on the sender itself, from a spade to a bullet I think. Then you run a jumper between 2 of the contacts in the connector that the old indicator unit plugged into. It was a simple fix. I did it because the new design looked better and simpler.
Can you do pictures and a drawing, Please?? It may help those in need. I'll have to dig out my manual and look at the wiring diagram. In case I forget, here are the basics as I remember. The old type sender varied resistance based on temp. As it is grounded to the engine, the indicator unit read the voltage through one connector and switched the temp light on (through a different connector) when the voltage passing through the sender indicated a high temp. The new type combines the temp sensor and indicator unit in the sender itself. Therefore, it directly turns the warning light on by grounding the light when the sender gets too hot. So, if you connect the sender to the light by jumping the correct terminals in the indicator unit connector, the sender and light will function as they do in the newer models. This is all from memory (from several years ago) so don't make any mods without having a look at the wiring diagram first. It also helps to look at diagrams for both older and newer models to see what changed.
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GOOSE
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Posts: 704
D.S. #: 1643
Southwest Virginia
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« Reply #14 on: July 08, 2014, 04:53:52 PM » |
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WHAT WE REALLY NEED HERE IS SOMEONE WHO CAN SHOW WITH A WIRING DIAGRAM WHERE, AND WHAT TO JUMP/HOOK-UP, AND WHAT PARTS NEED TO BE PURCHASED TO FIX THIS. THIS WOULD BE FOR ALL OF US HERE WHO HAVE A HARD TIME FOLLOWING WORDED DIRECTIONS THAT MOST PEOPLE CAN FOLLOW.
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Medic
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« Reply #15 on: July 08, 2014, 07:37:13 PM » |
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BUMP
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F6Dave
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« Reply #16 on: July 09, 2014, 07:29:34 AM » |
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It will be interesting to see how long Honda keeps making parts for the old Valkyrie. Luckily, the indicator unit is not a critical part as there is a simple upgrade to a newer design. But if they decide to drop critical items, like final drive pieces, the old Valks become much less attractive for daily driving or long trips.
I've heard over the years that Honda has supported their older machines better than most manufacturers. And since the 1500 Wings have so many parts in common, I don't think my 2 Valks are ready for the museum yet. But when I read about parts being discontinued it sure pushes me that much closer to buying an F6B. If I could only find one in yellow!
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BonS
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« Reply #17 on: July 09, 2014, 07:45:29 AM » |
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. . . But when I read about parts being discontinued it sure pushes me that much closer to buying an F6B. If I could only find one in yellow!
Time is on your side! 
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Chippy01
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« Reply #18 on: July 09, 2014, 11:31:09 AM » |
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'98 GL1500C Standard Valkyrie '88 VF750C SuperMagna '89 GL1500 GoldWing
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Medic
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« Reply #19 on: July 13, 2014, 08:39:22 PM » |
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Anyone come up with the step by step directions or link to same on the work around that uses the alternative parts and jumpers yet?
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #20 on: July 14, 2014, 04:58:44 AM » |
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It will be interesting to see how long Honda keeps making parts for the old Valkyrie. Luckily, the indicator unit is not a critical part as there is a simple upgrade to a newer design. But if they decide to drop critical items, like final drive pieces, the old Valks become much less attractive for daily driving or long trips.
I've heard over the years that Honda has supported their older machines better than most manufacturers. And since the 1500 Wings have so many parts in common, I don't think my 2 Valks are ready for the museum yet. But when I read about parts being discontinued it sure pushes me that much closer to buying an F6B. If I could only find one in yellow!
On a hunch, I looked at the fiche this morning and checked out final drive parts availability. While the entire gearcase assembly is no longer offered, the invividual parts still are. Best advice is to get a set of gears, seals and whatever else is required to rebuild the final drive. I may end up snagging a spare one then rebuilding it just in case. The final drive unit - 41300-MZ0-000 - appears common across all model years of GL1500Cx Valkyries, at least from the spot-checking I did. As far as the temp indicator circuit goes: I have a '99 Tourer (with the discontinued indicator module) and I have a 00-up temp switch available. If I get time over the next several days I'll compare the setups and see what I can do about documenting a workaround. I'm surprised this isn't detailed somewhere in the old "Tech Archives".
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Medic
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« Reply #21 on: July 17, 2014, 01:56:34 AM » |
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It will be interesting to see how long Honda keeps making parts for the old Valkyrie. Luckily, the indicator unit is not a critical part as there is a simple upgrade to a newer design. But if they decide to drop critical items, like final drive pieces, the old Valks become much less attractive for daily driving or long trips.
I've heard over the years that Honda has supported their older machines better than most manufacturers. And since the 1500 Wings have so many parts in common, I don't think my 2 Valks are ready for the museum yet. But when I read about parts being discontinued it sure pushes me that much closer to buying an F6B. If I could only find one in yellow!
On a hunch, I looked at the fiche this morning and checked out final drive parts availability. While the entire gearcase assembly is no longer offered, the invividual parts still are. Best advice is to get a set of gears, seals and whatever else is required to rebuild the final drive. I may end up snagging a spare one then rebuilding it just in case. The final drive unit - 41300-MZ0-000 - appears common across all model years of GL1500Cx Valkyries, at least from the spot-checking I did. As far as the temp indicator circuit goes: I have a '99 Tourer (with the discontinued indicator module) and I have a 00-up temp switch available. If I get time over the next several days I'll compare the setups and see what I can do about documenting a workaround. I'm surprised this isn't detailed somewhere in the old "Tech Archives". Thanks for the help, Let me know what ya figure out.
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Attic Rat
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Posts: 446
VRCC # 1962
Tulsa, OK
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« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2014, 07:05:46 AM » |
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why don't you get on ebay and buy a complete wiring harness for less than 50.00 and it will come with the part you want and you can have extra parts for the years to come
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
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Brian
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« Reply #23 on: July 19, 2014, 05:56:26 AM » |
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Does it really matter if this indicator light is operational? This question may start a fire storm of posts. I have yet to ever have an issue with any water cooled vehicle in my 44 years of driving where the idiot light would come on. Maybe I am missing something here? If proper maintenance is done and you know your bike I wouldn't bother with it. I did however just installed a toggle switch to keep the fan running while sitting in traffic to keep from having it start and stop so many times. I don't trust indicator lights as they could burn out. I think I would look at adding a real temperature gauge and I have been considering this as my next project for this winter.
This part that is no longer available may not have been a highly requested item so why should they keep it in stock? Manufacturing and stocking items that do not move is expensive and an overhead cost in a time when everyone is looking to save costs. It does bother me that some items may be unattainable.
Just my 2 cents.
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$ Ball
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« Reply #24 on: July 22, 2014, 08:42:59 PM » |
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I just fixed my flickering temp light , I check inside the left side cover to check that part , took out coolant tank and there was a wire pulled out of the four pronged plug ,fixed that and no more temp light. Maybe you might get lucky.
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DaveClement
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« Reply #25 on: August 21, 2014, 10:57:16 AM » |
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This is my first post on this forum. I've learned much by reading over the years, but I've never had anything to add. Until now...
I started experiencing the flickering temperature light at times when I was pretty sure there was no way the engine could be overheating. I suspected that it was a sensor/indicator problem and not an actual overheating issue. A quick search of the forum confirmed that many others were experiencing the same problem. I was relieved that the simple replacement of the 38710-MZ0-003 indicator unit would fix the problem, but then dismayed to find that the part has been discontinued with no apparent source of new parts available. I did make some progress toward a solution. Read on...
First a few comments on disassembling the old part and reverse engineering it. I tried that route and I don't hold out a lot of hope. There is a circuit board inside that is pretty well buried in rubberized potting compound. It wasn't too difficult to cut apart the plastic case and peel off the rubber compound to access the bottom of the circuit board. There was nothing obvious that appeared wrong, like visible cold solder joints. I may try reflowing the solder joints, but I don't have high hopes that it will do much.
The other side of the circuit board with the discrete components is a lot more difficult to access. It would take a lot of tedious work to pick away at the rubber potting compound to get at the components. I did dig far enough to discover that there is an 8 pin DIP package IC and a number of resisters, capacitor, etc. I didn't continue digging any further as I determined that it wouldn't be worth my time.
I decided a used module was my best bet. I couldn't find any modules by part number or "indicator unit", "temp" or "temperature", etc. on eBay. I started looking at getting a used wiring harnesses on eBay. The majority of the ones that I found appear to be just the wiring harness, without all of the various modules.
Here is where I DID have success. I started at the seller "pinwall_cycle_parts", who I have purchased from many times in the past. They always have a huge selection of Valkyrie parts. Sorting under Honda, Valkyrie, then lowest price first, I started looking at the pictures of every item. I knew what I was looking for because I had the old part in my hand. I found a number of identical parts listed as "reserve lighting device", starting at about $10. I also found a number listed as "fuel pump relay", starting around $15. Since there is a good chance that the previous owner may have been driving around with a bad module, I bought two of the $10 parts in hopes that at least one of the two will work properly.
A search of all sellers on eBay under eBay Motors, Motorcycle Parts, Electrical Components turned up similar results with "fuel pump relays" starting around $15.
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DaveClement
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« Reply #26 on: August 21, 2014, 11:09:48 AM » |
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As an additional note, I considered replacing thermostatic sensor for '99 and earlier, with the thermostatic switch from '00 and later and bypassing the electronic module. Looking at the wiring diagrams, it looks like you would need to remove the module and jumper the green/blue wire to the light green/black wire, as well as changing the connector at the sensor to a spade terminal connector. All of that should be easy. The difficulty is getting at the sensor at the thermostat housing. You have to remove the radiator to get to it and swap it out. That's more work than I want to do if I can avoid it.
Replacing the module should be a lot easier.
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F6Dave
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« Reply #27 on: August 21, 2014, 11:22:15 AM » |
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Last month I posted a long description of how to upgrade to the new sender by jumping a wire in the indicator unit plug. Since the new sender has the indicator unit built in, here's all you really need to do:
1. Buy and install the new sender.
2. Connect the wire from the sender to the temp light.
3. You're done -- have a beer.
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DaveClement
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« Reply #28 on: September 02, 2014, 01:48:17 PM » |
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As a follow up, I got the used replacement module from Pinwall. (See my reply #24 above for details.) It was a simple plug in replacement that solved the problem quickly and easily for less than $10. Well, actually $20, since I bought two modules. I went on a 100 mile plus ride yesterday and the temp light didn’t flicker once!
I agree that changing out the thermostatic sensor to a thermostatic switch is the more permanent and reliable way to go for the long term, but for quick and easy, getting a used module worked great for me.
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westnek
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« Reply #29 on: September 02, 2014, 03:59:03 PM » |
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As a follow up, I got the used replacement module from Pinwall. (See my reply #24 above for details.) It was a simple plug in replacement that solved the problem quickly and easily for less than $10. Well, actually $20, since I bought two modules. I went on a 100 mile plus ride yesterday and the temp light didn’t flicker once!
I agree that changing out the thermostatic sensor to a thermostatic switch is the more permanent and reliable way to go for the long term, but for quick and easy, getting a used module worked great for me.
will the fan still come on if light inoperable when engine gets too warm =i'm thinking it will work ok even if light is flickering and not working ,,is this right thank you
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98valk
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« Reply #30 on: September 02, 2014, 04:18:23 PM » |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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DaveClement
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« Reply #31 on: September 03, 2014, 07:27:08 AM » |
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Westnek, you are correct, the fan is completely independent from the temperature light circuit. The fan is controlled by a thermostatic switch at the lower left corner of the radiator. The fan will continue to work regardless of what the indicator light is or isn’t doing.
I would recommend fixing your indicator light one way or the other. If something happens to the fan circuit, you will want a working indicator to tell you if the engine is overheating. My fan did stop working a couple of summers ago and the temperature light warned me of overheating before any damage was done. It turned out to be nothing more than a blown fuse for the fan circuit. Without a working warning light, it might have been a different story.
CA, It is likely that SpeedSupplies doesn’t actually have the part on hand and that when they try to get it from Honda, you will get the same results as Medic did with Partzilla in reply #5 above.
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