FUSE??

[greggh]

1998 Valk STD

Tach headlights and taillights are out.
Check the fuses within the fuse box and all are good.

Any Ideas please. 

Thank you in advance.

Greggh

[Earl in Pensacola]

The first place I'd check would be the "Starter Switch".  Do a search on starter switch maintenance. LOts of info .

[greggh]

It starts and runs fine.

Just No Tach and nor running lights.
No Neutral Light either

[Gryphon Rider]

The starter button has two functions: 1. to engage the starter, and 2. to turn off the headlights as the starter is engaged.  Either function could go bad while the other works.

What I think is the real problem is your ignition switch or the wiring from it.  The ignition switch actually switches three different circuits: IG1, IG2, and FAN.  IG1 switches the ignition, stop light, and horn.  IG2 switches headlights, running lights, meters, and the accessory terminals.  Your troubles are all part of the IG2 circuit, except I'm not sure about the neutral light.

[greggh]

Would that effect the tail lights also.

She starts fine.

[greggh]

Confused!

[Gryphon Rider]

Would that effect the tail lights also.

She starts fine.

Yes, running lights includes tail lights.

[greggh]

So I guess I start with checking the starter button even though it still starts and runs fine?

[Gryphon Rider]

So I guess I start with checking the starter button even though it still starts and runs fine?

Start with the easiest, most obvious thing.  Remove all the fuses from the 6 fuse fuse block.  Turn on the key, and using a test light or voltmeter probe, see if you have power on the hot side of all the fuses.  If you do, your ignition switch is good and you'll need to check other stuff, like the starter button.  I think you'll find you have no power to the fuses for the headlight, tail/meter, and accessory terminals.  This means either the ignition switch is bad (most likely), or the wiring or connectors between the ignition switch and the fuse block is the cause.

[Red Diamond]

This past Sunday, I noticed my signal light indicator blinked faster than usual on the left, indicating a burnt bulb front or rear. Stopped at Walmart to install a new rear bulb, nothing worked. Rode on home using hand signaling to the left. Without checking anything else, I decided to pump the starter switch, whata you know, the left rear turn signal started to work again.

[greggh]

All fuses are fine
Goth the starter switch apart now.
Going to clean and see what happens.
I still say thre prob may be elsewhere

[greggh]

Starter scheckecleaned.
New 30 amp fuse in starter solenoid.
Triple checked fuses.

Still nothing!

Any other thoughts.

No tach headlight tail lights neutral light nothing!

Help!
Please.

[rhinor61]

Ignition switch will need to be tested..
here is the wiring diagram.
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage02.html

Check all like stated above, but think its IGN2 on the ignition switch.... look and see...

[Challenger]

Just had the same thing happen to a Valk at the Harrison ride-in. He lost left running lights first, then the tachometer quit the next day, after that the turn signals quit. We found corroded connections in the head light bucket. Follow the harness from the tach into the bucket and start cleaning. YMMV  Good luck.

[Gryphon Rider]

Starter scheckecleaned.
New 30 amp fuse in starter solenoid.
Triple checked fuses.

Still nothing!

Any other thoughts.

No tach headlight tail lights neutral light nothing!

Help!
Please.

It's only because of your mysterious results that I ask the question, and hope I don't offend:  Did you check the hot side of the fuses, i.e. one side of the slots that the fuses plug into, not the fuses themselves.  With the key on, they should all light up your test light.  If they do, you're going to have to follow the wires from there to each connection point and see if you have power, then continue on until you find no power.

[greggh]

I have no test light.
Not offended at all.
Just puzzeled

[greggh]

follow that wire to headlight bucket checked all connections cleaned and still nothing

[The emperor has no clothes]

I have no test light.
Not offended at all.
Just puzzeled

voltmeter?

[Gryphon Rider]

I have no test light.
Not offended at all.
Just puzzeled

voltmeter?

If you (greggh) are trying to troubleshoot electrical issues, you're going to be extremely handicapped without at least either a multimeter or a test light, and preferably both. These can both inexpensive enough to be worth it to run to your nearest cheap tool store and get one of each. Be sure to read the instructions for the multimeter because you can wreck it if you connect the leads wrong for what you are trying to measure.

[greggh]

to recap
tach Headlights taillights instrument lights neutral switch all not working!
1998 std.  97k miles.
I have cleaned the starter switch
Checked and cleaned all fuses and connections.
Checked and cleaned connections with in the headlight bucket.
I am ata loss.
Wire ing problrms, volt meters of the nature are not my best game.

Other ideas please

[The emperor has no clothes]

to recap
tach Headlights taillights instrument lights neutral switch all not working!
1998 std.  97k miles.
I have cleaned the starter switch
Checked and cleaned all fuses and connections.
Checked and cleaned connections with in the headlight bucket.
I am ata loss.
Wire ing problrms, volt meters of the nature are not my best game.

Other ideas please

Its not my field of expertise either. But it's not that hard, just start with what Gryphon Rider suggested and see where it takes you.

[rhinor61]

How are you testing fuse with out any test equipment..

a 12vdc test light at harbor freight is under $5
http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html

pretty simple to use... I could post a video but honestly..

how did you clean the start button? 
just curious..

[greggh]

Still nothing as of this morning.
wont be able to get to it until after work.
Plan to pick up a test light and start with the fuse box.

Still reaching for possible fixes.

Thanks to all.

Fixed the starter switch by tearing it apart and cleaned all contacts applied dielectric grease and reassembled.

[JetDriver]

to recap
tach Headlights taillights instrument lights neutral switch all not working!
1998 std.  97k miles.
I have cleaned the starter switch
Checked and cleaned all fuses and connections.
Checked and cleaned connections with in the headlight bucket.
I am ata loss.
Wire ing problrms, volt meters of the nature are not my best game.

Other ideas please

You have done everything except what Gryphon Rider said to do first.  He's not talking about checking the fuses themselves.  He's trying to get you to check and see if there is power at the fuse block.

[R J]

to recap
tach Headlights taillights instrument lights neutral switch all not working!
1998 std.  97k miles.
I have cleaned the starter switch
Checked and cleaned all fuses and connections.
Checked and cleaned connections with in the headlight bucket.
I am ata loss.
Wire ing problrms, volt meters of the nature are not my best game.

Other ideas please

You have done everything except what Gryphon Rider said to do first.  He's not talking about checking the fuses themselves.  He's trying to get you to check and see if there is power at the fuse block.

I used to have a Tech who just stuck a test light on a post, and if he got the right side to check it was good.    Otherwise it was shorted in his book and spent hours tracing it down.    Never finding anything.

His tracing was like trying to put diapers on a 40 year old person, worthless.

I don't know how many times I walked him thought a test.     Finally he told a customer off and I fired him.   He is more qualified in his last job, garbage truck driver.    That was like 15 or so years ago.    Plus as a garbage truck driver he almost doubled his salary, and we did not under pay our employees.   If they wanted to put in the time and work, they could make good $$$$$$. 

Sorry for the hijack of this topic.
There is a HOT side to all fuses.   The other side will always be dead until a fuse is in place.

[greggh]

So I bought a test light and the fuses for the head light, tail lights and the tach have no power to the fuses.

It's going to a friend mechanic of mine.
I has surpassed my knowledge of wiring.
 

[nogrey]

So I bought a test light and the fuses for the head light, tail lights and the tach have no power to the fuses.

It's going to a friend mechanic of mine.
I has surpassed my knowledge of wiring.
 

That's what friends are for. If you lived close by, I'd have been over there (or you over to my shop) by now and we'd be looking at it.

[rhinor61]

Your so close to solving this issue..
did you not look at the wiring chart..
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage02.html

you said it start fine...
Which is the RED/BLACK wire from the ignition switch..

Do have 12vdc at the ignition switch RED wires going to :
BAT1 and BAT2?

Now with the key on do you have power on
IGN1 ....RED/BLACK
and IGN2.. RED/WHITE

following wire diaphragm is like a road mAP.. start at the battery + and probe the points...

[Gryphon Rider]

So I bought a test light and the fuses for the head light, tail lights and the tach have no power to the fuses.

It's going to a friend mechanic of mine.
I has surpassed my knowledge of wiring.
 

Looks like the ignition (key) switch is the problem.  Tell him to confirm this before replacing the switch. I haven't tried to pull that switch apart so I don't know if it's repairable. Hopefully the new one will have the same key blank as your other locks so a locksmith can re-key it to match, or maybe the cylinder can be swapped from your old one.

[rhinor61]

Your so close to solving this issue..
did you not look at the wiring chart..
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage02.html

you said it start fine...
Which is the RED/BLACK wire from the ignition switch..

Do have 12vdc at the ignition switch RED wires going to :
BAT1 and BAT2?

Now with the key on do you have power on
IGN1 ....RED/BLACK
and IGN2.. RED/WHITE

following wire diaphragm is like a road mAP.. start at the battery + and probe the points...

I just did... use your test light and do what I just said to do...

[greggh]

Its funny,

I can repaire and work on computers just fiine
Wiriing absolutly have issues understanding.

Thanks for all the help.

[rhinor61]

Its okay,
Just print off the wiring schematic and take it to your friend.

Reading a wiring schematic is like doing DOT-to-DOTS as a kid.


The ignition switch will need to be re-keyed to match your other locks or run 2 different keys.
Your choice... good luck

[greggh]

Problem solved!!!
Starter switch was the culprit.
lucky for my OCD!
I bought a starter switch for $10 4 years ago and had spare
Thank you for all your ideas and help
Greggh

[indybobm]

Glad it is fixed. Just to clarify, do you mean the starter switch on the right handlebar or the starter relay behind the right side cover?

[greggh]

sorry  my apologies not the
 starter switch it was the ignition switch
Sorry to confuse everyone

[Bone]

What I think is the real problem is your ignition switch or the wiring from it.

 Gryphon Rider  Reply #3 you had the problem.

[Ricky-D]

Yep, you scored it right off....

I think the ignition switch is serviceable.

I recall an earlier thread that had some pictures

of the switch, apart.  The OP was looking for a spring

that had popped out on him, and was lost.

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