Specific Gravity testers for checking your antifreeze question

[nogrey]

I have used a "specific gravity" tester for years to check the quality of antifreeze mix in bikes that I have bought. You know, the little glass eyedropper tube with little floating beads in it and a scale that shows the temperature rating the antifreeze is good to.
Anyone have any experience with these? How accurate are they and what can actually be determined regarding the quality of the antifreeze in your radiator?

[R J]

All they do is show how much cold the anti freeze will handle before freezing.

We usually replaced out at the shop every 3 years.

Most of ours never reached the age of 3, the got dropped and broken before that 3rd birthday.

As far a quality, no such a test I'm aware of.

[nogrey]

All they do is show how much cold the anti freeze will handle before freezing.

We usually replaced out at the shop every 3 years.

Most of ours never reached the age of 3, the got dropped and broken before that 3rd birthday.

As far a quality, no such a test I'm aware of.

Replace them at 3 years? Is that because the beads get old or something? I've had mine for well over 15 years, but I'm a bit OCD about my tools. I think the one I have cost all of $1.99. Maybe time for a new one.

[R J]

These are owned by the shop, and all the techs use them.

Not their tools so they don't get treated very well.

Most get BROKEN tubes before the 3 year period.

Sorry I didn't make that clear in the original post.

[flcjr]

I use a refractometer  I believe they are more accurate and you can use them to test batteries also. They cost a little more but you only need to buy it once if you take care of it.

[Brad]

Quick test
Reading the multimeter

Reading the multimeter

A reading of .4 volts or less means the coolant is good. Replace the coolant if the reading is higher than .4 volts.

If you think the only job of antifreeze (coolant) is to cool the engine during the summer and prevent freeze-up during the winter, read on. Coolant also plays an important role in preventing corrosion caused by electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when two dissimilar metals start swapping electrons, causing the metals to corrode. Since an engine has aluminum, copper, cast iron, steel and magnesium alloys, electrolysis will slowly eat away at its innards.

Coolant has additives to prevent all of that electron swapping. But, as coolant ages, the additives are depleted and can't do the job anymore. In fact, worn coolant becomes a pretty darn good electrical conductor, accelerating internal electrolysis. The good news is that it's pretty easy to check the conductivity of your coolant with a digital multimeter. If the conductivity is high, it's time for a coolant flush and fill. Here's a quick way to check it.

Begin with a cold engine. Remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Set your digital multimeter to DC volts at 20 volts or less. When the engine reaches operating temperature, insert the positive probe directly into the coolant. Rev the engine to 2,000 rpm and place the negative probe on the negative battery terminal. If the digital meter reads .4 volts or less, your coolant is in good condition. If it's greater than .4 volts, the electrolysis additives are exhausted, and you may be in the market for a new radiator, a water pump or a heater core in the future. All of those are far more expensive than a simple coolant change.

[MarkT]

Install Evans permanent waterless coolant and your cooling system maintenance days will be over.  I am SO glad I did that.  DONE.

Waterless Engine Coolant - Jay Leno's Garage	powered by Aeva

[Ricky-D]

I feel that a litmus test is the best protection when considering antifreeze.

It does all the same as the specific gravity and the multi-meter tests combined.

And, testing the Ph is a direct, no interpolation required test that will

tell you right away if your antifreeze is good, or allowing possible harm

to the engine.

***

[bentwrench]

Go see the Honda car dealer buy a gal. of their premix for Honda cars 11.00 or 12.00$.Do this every 2-3 yrs. and never have to worry about testing it.
These organic acid type coolants used in every thing today don't give accurate readings on a hydrometer anyway.
BW

[nogrey]

Go see the Honda car dealer buy a gal. of their premix for Honda cars 11.00 or 12.00$.Do this every 2-3 yrs. and never have to worry about testing it.
These organic acid type coolants used in every thing today don't give accurate readings on a hydrometer anyway.
BW

That's pretty much what I've come up with as well. Just hate to waste good money. My issue is when I buy a used Valk, or when my brother brings one he's bought over for work. The radiator fluid is the one that's usually hard to tell what to do with. The other fluids? Well, unless they're pristine looking, usually need changing.

[nogrey]

Install Evans permanent waterless coolant and your cooling system maintenance days will be over.  I am SO glad I did that.  DONE.

Waterless Engine Coolant - Jay Leno's Garage

WOW! This IS the answer! Thanks!

[deadwood]

Another opinion of Evans Coolant.

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

[MarkT]

Another opinion of Evans Coolant.

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

I read the article.  Sounds authoritative, purports to be scientific.  But look closer at their agenda and unbalanced reportage - it's not even handed. The "study" was funded by No-Rosion, and reported on the norosion.com web site. They clearly have an agenda, attempting to defend their market share.  Their findings summary lists only their findings against Evans, ignoring all the Evans positives,  even those they found in testing.  Their tone is very negative towards Evans, complete with underlining - does not have a scientist's neutral tone.  They compare their product No-Rosion repeatedly to Evans.  I'll continue using Evans. Monitor the oil temp with a dipstick gauge. And monitor to see if the fan runs continuously - which it does not now.  If it does, I'll look into adjusting it's turn-on temp.  Maybe add a resistor to the temp sensor line if it's not easy with the ECM. On their other points - I used their prep fluid and followed Evans' instructions closely to install it.  The coolant temp is a bit higher but I expected that - took that to mean more efficient cooling and less localized nucleate boiling.  I've been running it for a couple years on both bikes with no immediate negative effects - we'll see on the water pump life.  There's no observable knock.  Power seems the same, so if any decrease, it's very small.  Worth it to me, to eliminate corrosion and cooling system maintenance. Not concerned that it's flammable - so is gasoline.  Not concerned it's slippery.  Seems like they are digging for every possible negative thing they can say, whether or not it's relevant. But - they've provided things I can watch for, so that's helpful.  I'll trust Jay Leno, a serious motorhead and tech consumer,  before I'll trust these jokers with a sales agenda.

[da prez]

  nogrey ,first , clean the hydrometer. Dis assemble and use glass cleaner and then water to remove the film. I also have a habit of taking care of tools. Some , I have had for over fifty years ( not the hydrometer tho) Aluminum radiators should have a good ground. It will help to prevent oxidation and corrosion. I like the coolant voltage test. I have not heard of it in years. I will remember that one.
  When I ran a high volume truck repair shop ,I built an anti freeze condenser for my recovered anti freeze. It helped save money. It is as simple as a barrel with a spigot at the very bottom and on up about four to six inches . The anti freeze will settle out the solids and evaporate the water. The bottom spigot will drain off the sludge , and the top one gives you useable anti freeze.

                                da prez