Greenmando
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« on: July 16, 2014, 02:51:39 PM » |
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The previous owner suggested changing the drive shaft fluid. I have not picked up a book yet. What fluid am I going to use? 90 weight, 5w40? I prefer synthetics.
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1998 Honda Valkyrie 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100 
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2014, 03:15:10 PM » |
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I don't know what drive shaft fluid is, but, I'll assume you meant rear drive fluid. Most folks use a synthetic in the 75-90 range. When changing this fluid be mindful of all the holes/plugs. The top chrome thingy is the vent, leave it alone. There is a 'bolt' about half way up the drive, thats the level plug. There is a lower drain plug. The rear end holds 5.1 US ounces, or just enough for it to come out of the level plug while the bike is level upright.
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« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 03:32:58 AM by Patrick »
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98valk
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« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2014, 03:58:53 PM » |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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MP
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Posts: 5532
1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar
North Dakota
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2014, 06:39:08 AM » |
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I assume you mean rear end oil, as the driveshaft has no oil.
Use a GL-5 rated oil.
Synthetic is my choice, but dino is OK.
MP
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 "Ridin' with Cycho"
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Gary
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2014, 11:46:56 AM » |
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On a side note, be extremely careful when tightening the final drive drain plug filler bolt cap, I've had one pop clean off when gently snugging it up. This happened even after having done at least 10 Valk changes over the years.
Remember, there's a link to download the book/service manual on the Norway site for guidance.
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« Last Edit: July 19, 2014, 07:12:15 AM by Gary »
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salty1
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Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2014, 12:51:21 PM » |
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I like this stuff available at Wally World for a little over $5 a quart. Ichange out the final lube annually.  You might wanto also download a copy of the service manual at the link given below. Pay attention to the torque specs as mentioned above. http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
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Savago
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« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2014, 01:31:59 PM » |
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Dear friend I quick look into Honda's service manual lists the final drive oil as "Hypoid gear oil, SEA #80" and the torque to be applied to the oil filler cap as 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 9lbf.ft) and for the oil drain bolt as 20 N.m (2.0 Kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft). You can order Honda OEM oil from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039OO56Y/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1Best regards Adenilson
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2014, 01:41:13 PM » |
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Dear friend I quick look into Honda's service manual lists the final drive oil as "Hypoid gear oil, SEA #80" and the torque to be applied to the oil filler cap as 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 9lbf.ft) and for the oil drain bolt as 20 N.m (2.0 Kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft). You can order Honda OEM oil from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039OO56Y/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1Best regards Adenilson News Flash!!! Honda does not make oil of any kind. They take oils, slap a Honda label on it and charge you triple. Lucas makes a very good Hypoid gear oil..........better than OEM Any good quality synthetic HYPOID gear oil near the specified weight....like 75W-90 or so will be as good or better than the Honda stuff they sell in the small bottle for a huge price.  
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« Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 01:45:05 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2014, 05:50:11 PM » |
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On a side note, be extremely careful when tightening the final drive drain plug bolt, I've had one pop clean off when gently snugging it up. This happened even after having done at least 10 Valk changes over the years.
Remember, there's a link to download the book/service manual on the Norway site for guidance.
Also be careful with the gear oil filler bolt. I cracked one where the threads meet the cap by over tightening. Just snug 
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Pepmyster
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Posts: 698
Go Bonzo, Go!!!!
Mascouche, Quebec, Canada
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« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2014, 05:55:05 PM » |
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I broke my fill plug just before our Florida trip. Just snug as mentioned.
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Now this is getting interesting........
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2014, 08:09:30 PM » |
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Dear friend I quick look into Honda's service manual lists the final drive oil as "Hypoid gear oil, SEA #80" and the torque to be applied to the oil filler cap as 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 9lbf.ft) and for the oil drain bolt as 20 N.m (2.0 Kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft). You can order Honda OEM oil from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039OO56Y/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1Best regards Adenilson News Flash!!! Honda does not make oil of any kind. They take oils, slap a Honda label on it and charge you triple. Lucas makes a very good Hypoid gear oil..........better than OEM Any good quality synthetic HYPOID gear oil near the specified weight....like 75W-90 or so will be as good or better than the Honda stuff they sell in the small bottle for a huge price.   Chris, how did you determine that Lucas gear oil is better than the Honda OEM stuff?
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2014, 05:49:57 AM » |
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Chris, how did you determine that Lucas gear oil is better than the Honda OEM stuff? A quality synthetic beats non synthetic every time. Plus...I used the OEM stuff and I saw what it looks like after 10,000 miles. After using the Lucas oil and it looks brand new after 10,000 miles, hands down, no contest.
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« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 05:54:30 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2014, 10:05:21 AM » |
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As long as that oil is GL-5 hypoid rated, then it sounds great....I change the oil everytime I lube the splines, which is at least every tire change (20,000 miles) or 10,000 miles which is half a tire. Sometimes I get motivated and do a mid tire service
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« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 10:09:20 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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Brian
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« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2014, 05:07:35 AM » |
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I am using the Lucas oil that Chrisj is showing here. I do a driveline inspection and maintenance every spring so I change rear end fluid each time. The rear end uses so little lubricant it doesn't hurt the bank to change it yearly. IMHO.
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Gary
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« Reply #16 on: July 19, 2014, 07:17:25 AM » |
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Also be careful with the gear oil filler bolt. I cracked one where the threads meet the cap by over tightening. Just snug  Yup, I sit corrected. My original response should refer to the filler bolt/cap. Those puppies are soft... 
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Robert
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« Reply #17 on: July 19, 2014, 06:20:26 PM » |
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Mobil One or preferably Red Line 75w/140 that I add a moly additive to and it works great. Its gears folks nothing to get that concerned about.
Bad news about the Lucas oil its not a synthetic unless it specifically says synthetic on the label. The stuff on ebay not the stuff Chris uses, is a blend of oils and additives with a fiber additive. I dont like the Lucas oil, personally. Also as said before the Honda stuff is not synthetic not made by Honda so like said any synthetic will do better than Honda stuff.
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« Last Edit: July 19, 2014, 06:28:38 PM by Robert »
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
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