OEM Valve Stems = Death

[Mitchapalooza]

Okay, I know this topic has probably been beaten to death, though I feel strongly about bringing it back up - for awareness if nothing else. 
Two months ago, my front tire went completely flat (quickly) while doing 80mph coming back to Texas from Arkansas.  I nearly lost the bike, as I was next to two 18 wheelers and had to get over three lanes to the shoulder.  After finally getting over and stopped (barely), I finally traced the failure to the valve stem.  With no way to repair it on hand, it was a 6 hour layover to have it towed and have the valve stem changed out with a chrome one with a retainer nut.  I feel completely confident in the new stem.
Fast forward to this past weekend, I had a trip to Kerrville from Fort Worth to do a wedding and... the same thing happened on the rear.  Same exact type tear and same situation. At least I was closer to home...and prepared.
After having both, I learned a few things:
1.  Get rid of the OEM-type rubber valve stems.  They are prone to failure, as the centrifugal force of the wheel rotation at high speeds facilitates this.  Replace them with a 90 degree steel/chrome stem which is threaded on - preferably from the outside with some loctite. 

2.  If you are trying to wait for your next rubber swap to do this (which I advise against), keep a few extra tools in your saddle bag including 1 or 2 large C-Clamps, small piece of 2x4, extra valve stem(s), soapy water/tire lube, bead breaker/spoon, and an air pump/compressor of some sort.  You can actually break the bead where the valve stem is without taking the wheel/tire off by using the C-Clamp(s) (put wood on one side against tire/wheel so you don't damage the wheel, then use the spoon and lube to help work the tire edge over and break the bead.  This allows you just enough access to the valve stem so you can change it out and then put some air in the tire so it will re-seat on the bead.  It works and the peace of mind is worth it.

3.  While they both suck and I hope it never happens to anyone, I'll take a flat rear tire over a flat front ANY DAY!  Much easier to keep the fat girl in check and get over/stopped safely. 

Don't play around or skip changing the stems.  Do it at every tire change, or if you never have - do it now!   

[98valk]

so called rubber valves are all made with a material know as EPDM which is required by DOT and to last a minimum of 60k miles.  The material greatly deteriorates when it comes into contact with petroleum distillates which is in just about all waxes and polishes on the shelf that people use to polish their wheels.
as test I used the wrong wheel polish on my front wheel, result oem stem went bad at 30k, rear wheel used the right polish and at 42k still no problems.

I've posted chemical compatibility charts before for EPDM. search should bring up the post.

[Rio Wil]

Just out of curiosity did the OEM stems have the plastic valve stem support installed?
 

[Gryphon Rider]

Just out of curiosity did the OEM stems have the plastic valve stem support installed?

Pretty important question, as this was how Honda dealt with the issue.

[Bighead]

Plus if you have them changed at every tire change(only about $4 more) you won't have this problem.

[vanagon40]

Plus if you have them changed at every tire change(only about $4 more) you won't have this problem.

I'm not sure where you are getting your tires changed, but if you are getting the OEM valve stem, Part No. 42753-MN5-004, $4.00 is a great bargain, as Partzilla has it listed at $8.09, and HDL prices it at $11.03.

There is no reason not to install a solid metal valve stem at a much lower price.

Although everyone rants and raves about the 90° valve stem, I personally prefer a 45° valve stem.

[Farther]

Although everyone rants and raves about the 90° valve stem....

First that I have heard that.  Is this a Greenwood, IN thing?

[Bighead]

Plus if you have them changed at every tire change(only about $4 more) you won't have this problem.

I'm not sure where you are getting your tires changed, but if you are getting the OEM valve stem, Part No. 42753-MN5-004, $4.00 is a great bargain, as Partzilla has it listed at $8.09, and HDL prices it at $11.03.

There is no reason not to install a solid metal valve stem at a much lower price.

Although everyone rants and raves about the 90° valve stem, I personally prefer a 45° valve stem.

I think the last time I replaced both tires at the same time the guy that mounted them charged me under
$10 for both. Coulda been his mistake and my good fortune but

[Chrisj CMA]

Plus if you have them changed at every tire change(only about $4 more) you won't have this problem.

I'm not sure where you are getting your tires changed, but if you are getting the OEM valve stem, Part No. 42753-MN5-004, $4.00 is a great bargain, as Partzilla has it listed at $8.09, and HDL prices it at $11.03.

There is no reason not to install a solid metal valve stem at a much lower price.


Although everyone rants and raves about the 90° valve stem, I personally prefer a 45° valve stem.

Most Honda dealers have the price of the valve stems already calculated in the price.  The reason for changing them to the all metal ones is so you don't have to worry about one breaking.  Yes, you may be alright if they are changed every time.......do you mark them to be able to know if they were really changed or just wiped down? 

[Bighead]

When I have one mounted I stand right there and watch.

[Pappy!]

Went with the chrome plated steel for peace of mind. Never have to worry if that was a good batch of rubber valve stems or not so good ..............

[Pete]

Even on the steel stem there is a gasket on the inside of the rim, that can go bad over time.
in  past life as a tire installer at a service stations, we always replace valve stems at every tire change on a car.

Still seems like a good idea to me on cars or motorcycles..