Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 17, 2025, 09:56:46 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Puddles around the intake tubes  (Read 1812 times)
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« on: August 13, 2014, 02:29:38 AM »

I'm starting to get puddles of oil/gas (pics below). I've already searched the archives but must not have put in the proper words. So can anybody direct me to the links? Or, what was the solution? Thanks in advance.



Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2014, 04:27:42 AM »


You just need to replace the O-ring under each intake runner (tube)...

Search "intake runner" and you'll probably get a lot of hits, we do
yak about it a lot.

-Mike
Logged

salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2014, 05:01:58 AM »

Redeye Technical Service has the O-rings.

https://sites.google.com/site/valkparts/
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

westnek
Member
*****
Posts: 77


« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2014, 09:39:05 AM »

I'm starting to get puddles of oil/gas (pics below). I've already searched the archives but must not have put in the proper words. So can anybody direct me to the links? Or, what was the solution? Thanks in advance.




 yes  when you remove the intakes  be careful #2  and   4 are connected to vacuum  lines ''don't pull to hard  on the intake  and disconnect vacuums    [[[[yikes]]]  I found  lifting up then out towards you  - small inserted ring  in a grove is under the pips  ;a little  goo on new one and '''up and in =good luck


Logged
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2014, 10:04:52 AM »

thanks everybody. So far it's just the middle runner (left side), but the residue is tainting the stock aluminum color. Sorta like grease on a stove. The aluminum doesn't have the same newness tint to it even after cleaning up the affected areas.
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Patrick
Member
*****
Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2014, 10:34:02 AM »

I get the rings locally and the number is either 122 or 123. Can't remember for sure. But, you can match it/them up. I put in the next size 'fatter' ring. I change them all, its an easy job.
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2014, 11:56:57 AM »

I would recommend the viton o-rings from red eye. Others have used silicone and had problems. If one is leaking the others aren't going to be far behind. I'd do them all.  cooldude
Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2014, 12:12:05 PM »

Go to the dollar store.  Buy a spray bottle of MEAN GREAN (Not simple green) after you change the O-rings (do all 6) run the engine for a minute or so, just until the block is getting warm.  Turn it off and spray the Mean Green on, use a soft tooth brush at the affected area and then wash it off with a trickle hose, dry and it will shine like new.  Mine had the same gunk yours had.

This is at 140K miles and after cleaning that gunk off that you have

Logged
salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2014, 12:21:29 PM »

Looks great Chris! I like where you put your "size matters" emblem from Wally World. I put mine on the chrome swing arm cover.
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2014, 04:57:42 AM »

I'll be ordering viton rings from Redeye, but only doing the left middle tube for now. Seems the proper way to replace all 6 o-rings is to pull the air cleaner and carb bank in order to torque the runner bolts to specs, plus clean up the middle area. Don't really have time for that. Or whatever that might entail.

Chrisj, thanks for recommending the Mean Green & cleaning instructions.
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14785


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2014, 05:08:12 AM »

I'll be ordering viton rings from Redeye, but only doing the left middle tube for now. Seems the proper way to replace all 6 o-rings is to pull the air cleaner and carb bank in order to torque the runner bolts to specs, plus clean up the middle area. Don't really have time for that. Or whatever that might entail.

Chrisj, thanks for recommending the Mean Green & cleaning instructions.

No problem.  Just wanted to say, many many of us did this (o-ring replacement) and doing all six is no problem at all.  you just take one off replace the o-ring, then re-install.  Then go on to the second one.  One at a time until you do all six.  If one is leaking they all will be soon, but waiting until the others leak fluid is not going to hurt anything either. 
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2014, 05:47:13 AM »

I'll be ordering viton rings from Redeye, but only doing the left middle tube for now. Seems the proper way to replace all 6 o-rings is to pull the air cleaner and carb bank in order to torque the runner bolts to specs, plus clean up the middle area. Don't really have time for that. Or whatever that might entail.

Chrisj, thanks for recommending the Mean Green & cleaning instructions.
no need to pull the air cleaner. But I would also recommend tightening the hose clamps on the boots. (Or at least check them)
Logged
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2014, 06:29:31 AM »


The times I've changed the Orings, I've coordinated it with the
10K air filter change. So... you'd have to take the tank off for that.

Anywho... with the tank off, you can loosen the (only one I think)
bolt that holds the airbox to the frame, and then take off all the
bolts that hold the runners to the motor. Then the whole
airbox/runner assembly is free floating. It sure is easy to
get the runners off and on that way.

-Mike "but taking off the tank is kind of a hassle"
Logged

97Valk_CT_Euless
Member
*****
Posts: 167


Euless Tx


« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2014, 11:00:00 AM »

You might need to loosen the tank to get to all the clamps, but I don't even think you have to do that.  Going from memory, but I didn't do anything but loosen the intake runner clamps.  Had I loosened all 6 instead of 3 at a time, it would have been alot easier.  Doing all 6 wont take much longer than 1, since you'll need to loosen all 6 to get them out easier anyway.  You be glad you did.
Logged
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2014, 11:09:26 AM »

I'll probably do all 6, by one by one method. The reason I thought of pulling the airbox was to have an opportunity to shine up the middle earth area. Tried sticking all kind shape of brushes in there but just could not get all the accumulated dust/grime clean. As far as removing the gas tank itself, I've never had a problem with that so far. But, never yet pulled the snorkels off the carbs or tried wrestling them back on.
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
nogrey
Member
*****
Posts: 939


Live every day as if it were your last

Nampa, Idaho


WWW
« Reply #15 on: August 14, 2014, 12:32:28 PM »

thanks everybody. So far it's just the middle runner (left side), but the residue is tainting the stock aluminum color. Sorta like grease on a stove. The aluminum doesn't have the same newness tint to it even after cleaning up the affected areas.
It's easy enough to touch up. The engine blocks are actually painted silver. So go buy some engine paint in silver. Clean up the area (while you've got the runners off), mask it off and spray paint it. It will look just like new. I've painted several Valkyrie engine blocks now and have had excellent results.
Good luck.
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #16 on: August 14, 2014, 12:34:15 PM »

I'll probably do all 6, by one by one method. The reason I thought of pulling the airbox was to have an opportunity to shine up the middle earth area. Tried sticking all kind shape of brushes in there but just could not get all the accumulated dust/grime clean. As far as removing the gas tank itself, I've never had a problem with that so far. But, never yet pulled the snorkels off the carbs or tried wrestling them back on.
I had pretty good results cleaning up the residue with q-tips dipped in acetone. But I would try the mean green stuff first like ChrisJ CMA said. I've read too many posts of guys struggling to get the air cleaner snorkels back on right. I'm not removing that till I have to. Luckily my I/S is already desmogged and my Standard hasn't needed it yet.
Logged
salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #17 on: August 14, 2014, 12:35:46 PM »

I'll probably do all 6, by one by one method. The reason I thought of pulling the airbox was to have an opportunity to shine up the middle earth area. Tried sticking all kind shape of brushes in there but just could not get all the accumulated dust/grime clean. As far as removing the gas tank itself, I've never had a problem with that so far. But, never yet pulled the snorkels off the carbs or tried wrestling them back on.

If you can get the tank off, you've done the hard part. Airbox R&R is not very difficult, just takes time and patience. Watch Dag's DIY video, he has a few hints to make it easier.

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/airboxinstall.html
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #18 on: August 14, 2014, 12:39:31 PM »

I'll probably do all 6, by one by one method. The reason I thought of pulling the airbox was to have an opportunity to shine up the middle earth area. Tried sticking all kind shape of brushes in there but just could not get all the accumulated dust/grime clean. As far as removing the gas tank itself, I've never had a problem with that so far. But, never yet pulled the snorkels off the carbs or tried wrestling them back on.
I had pretty good results cleaning up the residue with q-tips dipped in acetone. But I would try the mean green stuff first like ChrisJ CMA said. I've read too many posts of guys struggling to get the air cleaner snorkels back on right. I'm not removing that till I have to. Luckily my I/S is already desmogged and my Standard hasn't needed it yet.

I would be hesitant to use acetone as it will remove paint. A milder, but effective solvent, for the job would be xylene. FWIW  Roll Eyes
Logged

My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #19 on: August 14, 2014, 01:12:17 PM »

*Rhetorical question* .... how is even possible that a post forewarns

Quote
I've read too many posts of guys struggling to get the air cleaner snorkels back on right. I'm not removing that till I have to.


then it's immediately followed by another post that states

Quote
If you can get the tank off, you've done the hard part. Airbox R&R is not very difficult,

Anyways it's not important. Lol.


nogrey, living in an apartment building, I only have a parking stall in the basement to work in. So painting is beyond my means unless I haul the engine up the elevator.




Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #20 on: August 14, 2014, 03:53:54 PM »

*Rhetorical question* .... how is even possible that a post forewarns

Quote
I've read too many posts of guys struggling to get the air cleaner snorkels back on right. I'm not removing that till I have to.


then it's immediately followed by another post that states

Quote
If you can get the tank off, you've done the hard part. Airbox R&R is not very difficult,

Anyways it's not important. Lol.


nogrey, living in an apartment building, I only have a parking stall in the basement to work in. So painting is beyond my means unless I haul the engine up the elevator.





Be prepared for 100 different opinions when you ask a ? around here 2funny
Logged
nogrey
Member
*****
Posts: 939


Live every day as if it were your last

Nampa, Idaho


WWW
« Reply #21 on: August 14, 2014, 10:06:31 PM »

*Rhetorical question* .... how is even possible that a post forewarns

Quote
I've read too many posts of guys struggling to get the air cleaner snorkels back on right. I'm not removing that till I have to.


then it's immediately followed by another post that states

Quote
If you can get the tank off, you've done the hard part. Airbox R&R is not very difficult,

Anyways it's not important. Lol.


nogrey, living in an apartment building, I only have a parking stall in the basement to work in. So painting is beyond my means unless I haul the engine up the elevator.





Ultimately, you have to draw your own conclusions. I never hauled an engine anywhere to paint it. Just masked it off on the bike and did it, on the bike. Removing the tank, airbox, etc is no big deal. Is it scary the first time, maybe. Is it doable by a newbie. Yes. Is it rocket science? Nope. One thing for certain, reading about possible solutions on here and then doing nothing won't fix your problem. Just go for it! Lots of help here if you need it.
Take care.
Logged
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #22 on: August 15, 2014, 02:52:16 AM »

yes, thinkin ain't doing.
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
Farther
Member
*****
Posts: 1680


Quimper Peninsula, WA


« Reply #23 on: August 15, 2014, 04:32:45 PM »

Plain soap and water cleaned that residue off my Standard and it never came back.  However, changing the O ring is on my list.
Logged

Thanks,
~Farther
Kunkies
Member
*****
Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #24 on: August 29, 2014, 08:23:49 AM »

ordered the o-rings from Redeye.  Thanks for the thread and advice.
Logged
Savago
Member
*****
Posts: 1994

Brentwood - CA


« Reply #25 on: August 29, 2014, 05:28:26 PM »

Dear friends

I've documented the process of replacing the intake o-rings here:
https://plus.google.com/+AdenilsonCavalcanti/posts/9JfzY4aFWwK

For the record, I've replaced the o-rings 300 miles ago and no leaks any more.
\o/

Concerning the stains, I followed the suggestion by ChrisJ CMA concerning the 'mean green' and it worked pretty well.


Cheers


Savago
« Last Edit: August 29, 2014, 09:58:27 PM by Savago » Logged
valkcowboy
Member
*****
Posts: 23



« Reply #26 on: August 29, 2014, 10:54:53 PM »

I'm starting to get puddles of oil/gas (pics below). I've already searched the archives but must not have put in the proper words. So can anybody direct me to the links? Or, what was the solution? Thanks in advance.





 Just changed all 6 of mine out 2 months ago pretty easy to do even on my Interstate with its radiator pods. All I did was to loosen all 3 on one side at a time. Besure to look at the rubber boots while you are there also & no they where not an issue to get back on.. Remember a small amount of fresh oil aplied to parts will make them easier to install. Don't let the engine size intimidate ya, just take it slow & easy one thing at a time & all will go well.. I always tell myself if a man made it another man can work on it, none  
of it was born together.. LOL
« Last Edit: August 29, 2014, 11:01:35 PM by valkcowboy » Logged
Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #27 on: August 30, 2014, 01:06:53 PM »

Remember a small amount of fresh oil aplied to parts will make them easier to install.
I would not get in the habit of using oil to lubricate rubber parts; some rubber is damaged by oil.  Silicone grease or spray lube is better for rubber parts.
Logged
nogrey
Member
*****
Posts: 939


Live every day as if it were your last

Nampa, Idaho


WWW
« Reply #28 on: September 03, 2014, 06:34:19 AM »

ordered the o-rings from Redeye.  Thanks for the thread and advice.
Was riding with a friend on Saturday and he asked me why he was getting these puddles after riding. We ran to the parts store, bought some of the "remains pliable" gasket sealer and put it on the offending down tube. Viola! Problem solved. I sent him a link to Redeye Ricks website to get a new set of Viton B orings.
Just a note: the O-rings he had on his were rubber and only lasted 6 months. I know because I put them there!
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: