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Author Topic: Fork Oil Maintenance - Instructions  (Read 1196 times)
DarkSideR
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To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.

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« on: August 20, 2014, 08:42:49 AM »

Gentlemen,

The ol gal now has 43k on her. Far as I can tell the Fork Oil hasn't been serviced. I did some initial research in the "Shop Talk" and found a small blurb about Fork Oil, but it only stated to refer to the manual for instructions. So my question is; Does anyone know of a write up, video, or have an electronic version of the manual giving specific instructions on how to change out the Fork Oil, and Seals that you can share with me?
« Last Edit: August 20, 2014, 11:39:48 AM by Joshcornkid » Logged

2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer
VRCC#34410
VRCCDS#0263
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16785


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2014, 08:50:50 AM »


I don't think I'd mess with it if the fork seals aren't leaky...

Unless you don't already have Progressive springs in there, in which
case I wager you would be very happy if you put them in, at the same
time changing the seals, oil and probably bushings...

valkyrienorway.com has the OEM manual and http://valkyrienorway.com/forksprings.html
which offer two ways to look at how to do all of this...

-Mike
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DarkSideR
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To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.

Pueblo, Colorado


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« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2014, 09:02:41 AM »


I don't think I'd mess with it if the fork seals aren't leaky...


My efforts are towards maintenance so that I don't end up with a leaky fork. With how often and how far I ride I don't want this to affect me in the future. Routine maintenance says this should be done every 2 years. Er I'm pushing 13 years...

Thank you for the link. That helps.
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer
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CASABROKER
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« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2014, 10:43:53 AM »

Use the 35 mm film trick to stop the leak it works.

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F6Dave
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« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2014, 11:07:21 AM »

Some of the bikes I've owned called for fork oil maintenance, but I've never seen the need unless they are leaking or you need to change seals, springs, or bushings.  It's a non-detergent oil so most of the dirt it picks up just falls harmlessly to the bottom.  I doubt there are enough shear forces to reduce the viscosity that much (though it might be interesting to do a new vs. used oil analysis).  So why bother?

If it really is needed, wouldn't it be necessary to change the oil in your shocks as well?
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DarkSideR
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To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.

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« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2014, 11:29:45 AM »

Some of the bikes I've owned called for fork oil maintenance, but I've never seen the need unless they are leaking or you need to change seals, springs, or bushings.  It's a non-detergent oil so most of the dirt it picks up just falls harmlessly to the bottom.  I doubt there are enough shear forces to reduce the viscosity that much (though it might be interesting to do a new vs. used oil analysis).  So why bother?

If it really is needed, wouldn't it be necessary to change the oil in your shocks as well?

In my research I came across some discussion of upgrading to the Progressive Springs, to which others noted that when they simply serviced their forks by replacing the oil and seals that the suspension came back to life and they felt good as new. Furthermore - I just serviced my Petcock to avoid the dreaded hydroLock. Why wouldn't I service my forks to avoid a leak on the road?
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2014, 01:52:10 PM »

You can get a leak in a new seal just as easy as an old used seal. Have seen new seals leak after 500 miles and seen old seals las 100k miles. Seems like it is hit or miss when messing with the fork seals.
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rws
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1997 Valkyrie Tourer

North Dakota


« Reply #7 on: August 21, 2014, 05:33:34 AM »

Gentlemen,

The ol gal now has 43k on her. Far as I can tell the Fork Oil hasn't been serviced. I did some initial research in the "Shop Talk" and found a small blurb about Fork Oil, but it only stated to refer to the manual for instructions. So my question is; Does anyone know of a write up, video, or have an electronic version of the manual giving specific instructions on how to change out the Fork Oil, and Seals that you can share with me?

Valk basically the same as VTX in the YouTube video...you'll also want to get a seal driver...Google "Motion Pro Ringer Fork Seal Driver"  you can get them on eBay for about $40 delivered.

Link to part 1 of 4...view others from links in YouTube sidebar.  Use the videos along with your manual and you will be just fine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXZPzQqfAXc

« Last Edit: August 21, 2014, 05:35:14 AM by rws » Logged

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rws
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1997 Valkyrie Tourer

North Dakota


« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2014, 05:41:45 AM »



If it really is needed, wouldn't it be necessary to change the oil in your shocks as well?

quality motorsport shocks are rebuild-able...these are cheap throw-aways
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #9 on: August 21, 2014, 06:17:55 AM »

Routine maintenance says this should be done every 2 years.
Where'd you see this?

Furthermore - I just serviced my Petcock to avoid the dreaded hydroLock.
How does servicing the petcock prevent hydrolock?  Issues that require a cover set kit to fix have nothing to do with hydrolock.
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DarkSideR
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To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.

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« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2014, 06:25:19 AM »

Routine maintenance says this should be done every 2 years.

Where'd you see this?

Furthermore - I just serviced my Petcock to avoid the dreaded hydroLock.

How does servicing the petcock prevent hydrolock?  Issues that require a cover set kit to fix have nothing to do with hydrolock.


I read it in Shop Talk under "Fork Oil"


The petcock failing allowing gas to flow to the carbs, which in return would need to have a sticky float valve open to allow gas to fill the cylinder causing hydrolock. Though the petcock is only one of the components that needs to fail it is a big part of the failure. I also rebuilt my carbs to prevent this.
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2014, 06:31:25 AM »

Routine maintenance says this should be done every 2 years.

Where'd you see this?

Furthermore - I just serviced my Petcock to avoid the dreaded hydroLock.

How does servicing the petcock prevent hydrolock?  Issues that require a cover set kit to fix have nothing to do with hydrolock.


This bad diaphragm caused gas to fill up #6 through the vacuum line...



It made raw gas shoot out the exhaust, I bet it could have caused hydrolock...

-Mike "check out how the previous owner tried to fix it  Smiley "
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2014, 07:27:02 AM »


This bad diaphragm caused gas to fill up #6 through the vacuum line...



It made raw gas shoot out the exhaust, I bet it could have caused hydrolock...

-Mike "check out how the previous owner tried to fix it  Smiley "

If the small diaphragm is good, fuel will not contact the large diaphragm.  If the small diaphragm is bad, fuel would leak out the vent hole before it got a chance to reach the vacuum hose via the damaged large diaphragm.  Putting a cap on the vent hole allowed the fuel to reach the vacuum hose; i.e. the yellow cap caused the hydrolock.
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DarkSideR
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To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.

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« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2014, 07:37:24 AM »

Fork Oil Gentlemen, Fork Oil!  Cool
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #14 on: August 21, 2014, 09:05:09 AM »

Fork Oil Gentlemen, Fork Oil!  Cool
We're setting an example for you and just leaving the fork oil alone.  Grin
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2014, 12:00:54 PM »

Fork Oil Gentlemen, Fork Oil!  Cool
We're setting an example for you and just leaving the fork oil alone.  Grin

i.e. the yellow cap caused the hydrolock.

He's right about that too  cooldude

-Mike
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