Rear wheel bearing sequence?

[pago cruiser]

Did a search, and could not find this topic.  I thought for sure this would have been discussed previously...

In setting my Valk up for a hack, I got my Austone 'tar mounted on a second rear wheel, and am now changing bearings.  Going the double wides each side.  No problem.

I know from bearing changes on my GL1200 that the sequence matters.  The brake side is always installed first, as when that bearing seats in the rim, it allows the disk to be at the correct distance for the caliper bracket.  This then allows for the splines to take up the correct slack.  The GL1200 manual is clear.

But... the Valk Honda Shop manual is buggered; I think.
It shows a pic of the rear wheel, calling the drive side bearing out as the "left bearing".   And the brake side bearing specified as the "right bearing". 

Then the text further calls out the "right" bearing to be driven in first.  Say what?

I guess literally, the text is correct; assuming you ONLY believe the text, and ignore the fact that it is actually on the left side of the bike - with the brake...

I would assume that the brake side first is still correct.  But think I'll wait for some feedback b4 I install these...

Am I right?  Or Left?  Or wrong?   

[Chrisj CMA]

The Valkyrie bearings have nothing to do with the brake rotor.  They need to be seated ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM of the bearing seat.  I would do the drive side first, then the spacer DONT FORGET THAT then the brake side.  But, really on the Valkyrie I don't suspect it matters which one is done first as long as they both get in all the way and the drive side is FLUSH with the hub

[pago cruiser]

Chris

I originally posted this because I thought something might be ... different... about the Valk pumpkin/bearings/caliper bracket, etc.  After some more looking at various hardware, they appear identical in function to the GL1200 and the ST1100. 

True, the bearing does not directly affect the rotor; guess I worded that badly.  But the bearing/spacer combination directly affects the caliper bracket spacing relative to the rotor, which allows the caliper to engage the rotor at the correct distance.  Which is why the double row bearing mod requires the spacer to be shortened.

I went back and checked my GL1200 Clymer manual, and it matches the Honda GL1200 manual; brake side first, then drive side.  Just for grins, I then went to my ST1100 Honda manual, which BTW uses the same splines as the Valk.  Same thing, in that brake side is first.  Anyone have a GL1500 Dresser Manual to confirm?

From what I remember from this discourse on the GL1200 forum a few years ago (and cannot find the thread on the site...), the rational is that manufacturing tolerances are additive.  And by bottoming the brake side bearing first, that establishes the caliper bracket spacing to the disk - with minimum variables.  The spline has a lot more latitude to float, allowed by the pins inserted into the aluminum/rubber bushings.  I have 2 GL1200's and you would think that the spline engagement would be identical - but it varies by about 2-3 mm.  I have no idea why.

Unless someone has another line of thinking, think I'll stick with the Valk manual being incorrect; or vague at best....  Between the ST1100 and the (2) GL1200's I've got about 140,000 miles in the last 4-5 years using the "brake side bearing" first logic, with no bearing failures.  YMMV.

Regards     

[Chrisj CMA]

certainly wont hurt a thing doing the brake side first, just make sure its seated ALL the way into the bearing seat.  If its not pressed all the way in it will later be forced all the way in during the assembly process but that way the force is applied to the inner race not the right way (outer race)

At least on the Valkyrie wheel the tolerances are non adjustable.  There is no way to affect spline engagement by proper or improper bearing installation.  The wheel will only go back on if all the metal parts (spacers and bearings) are butted up solid.  The only bearing that can possibly muck up the spline alignment is the right (drive side) bearing if not seated properly and Im sure it would get forced into its seat as well during the assembly process, again not what you want.

[Chrisj CMA]

Chris

I originally posted this because I thought something might be ... different... about the Valk pumpkin/bearings/caliper bracket, etc.  After some more looking at various hardware, they appear identical in function to the GL1200 and the ST1100. 

True, the bearing does not directly affect the rotor; guess I worded that badly.  But the bearing/spacer combination directly affects the caliper bracket spacing relative to the rotor, which allows the caliper to engage the rotor at the correct distance.  Which is why the double row bearing mod requires the spacer to be shortened.

I went back and checked my GL1200 Clymer manual, and it matches the Honda GL1200 manual; brake side first, then drive side.  Just for grins, I then went to my ST1100 Honda manual, which BTW uses the same splines as the Valk.  Same thing, in that brake side is first.  Anyone have a GL1500 Dresser Manual to confirm?

From what I remember from this discourse on the GL1200 forum a few years ago (and cannot find the thread on the site...), the rational is that manufacturing tolerances are additive.  And by bottoming the brake side bearing first, that establishes the caliper bracket spacing to the disk - with minimum variables.  The spline has a lot more latitude to float, allowed by the pins inserted into the aluminum/rubber bushings.  I have 2 GL1200's and you would think that the spline engagement would be identical - but it varies by about 2-3 mm.  I have no idea why.

Unless someone has another line of thinking, think I'll stick with the Valk manual being incorrect; or vague at best....  Between the ST1100 and the (2) GL1200's I've got about 140,000 miles in the last 4-5 years using the "brake side bearing" first logic, with no bearing failures.  YMMV.

Regards     

Another line of thinking is this.  Many members (me included) have had to replace just the left bearing.  In this case the right is untouched, meaning its already in when the new brake side is installed......no problems that I have ever heard of with doing this