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Author Topic: Frame Swap  (Read 902 times)
twdurdentwd
Member
*****
Posts: 232

Sebastian, Florida


« on: November 14, 2014, 12:01:26 PM »

What a b****!  tickedoff
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
NJF6Cowboy
Member
*****
Posts: 309


« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2014, 03:58:33 PM »

What problems are you having? Reason I ask is I have a brand new frame  from  HDL in my shed to replace the frame in my 99 interstate. The neck in my bike is tweaked due to our wreck last October.
I'll be starting my project around Thanksgiving.

Stan
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hal47
Member
*****
Posts: 545

INDIANA


« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2014, 06:59:48 PM »

You may want to check state laws,changing frames may require a salvage title, or a builders title.
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gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2014, 08:40:34 PM »

Wouldn't the new frame come with a title, a clean one?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

R J
Member
*****
Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2014, 09:15:36 PM »

Wouldn't the new frame come with a title, a clean one?

I've bought frames for several dirt bikes the kids raced and no title came with them.

I know in California a street bike would have to be checked by the DMV before it could go on the road.     If that didn't happen, the bike could be impounded.

The title on a changed street bike out there became a Builders title.   I think that is what it was called.    It has been tooooooo damn many years ago since I retired to remember.    I retired from the CHP on 1/1/1987.   Dat be 27+ years ago.   I actually had in 32 years, 9 months and some odd days in service.   Back then your service date was the day you graduated from the Academy.     Now, I think it is the day ya start the Academy.

 cooldude    cooldude    cooldude    cooldude    cooldude
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44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

twdurdentwd
Member
*****
Posts: 232

Sebastian, Florida


« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2014, 05:12:39 AM »

It is all good...frame I used was my broken-down (registered, insured) valk. Everything I put on the frame came from a salvaged title I/S...

My biggest challenge was the wiring harness. I strategically used masking tape and a permanent marker to aid in re-installing this on the new frame. I LABELED EVERYTHING. After fishing the harness through the rear, leaving it attached to the rear fender, I went backwards in re-installing it. The only reason I left it attached to my rear fender is because I preferred not to disconnect the rear taillight assembly on the right side of the bike on the seat area...just because.

Even after getting everything done, I'm still finding so much wiring is just in my way and not exactly organized like it was on the old bike so I advise you to take photos.

Another piece of advice I can give you is that you do not need to remove the carbs. I jacked the bike up, left as much attached to the engine that I could, disconnected the mount-areas, both sides of removable part of the frame under the engine, then used a second person to help stabilize while I "malleted" the old frame off the engine leaving engine on jack.

FYI before doing any of that, the front end and rear end was installed on the new frame (rolling chassis).

With the friont end, you may find it easier to simply pull the triple-tree apart, this will pevent you from having to re-install fork tubes, etc.


I advise that you use masking tape and a perm. marker for labeling, and ziplock bags for bolts/pieces, etc.

So In conclusion, these were the phases:
1) front end
2) rear end (no shocks) - used a homemade "stand" to keep new rolling chassis upright (do not install kickstand yet). rear end will include all to driveshaft, but do not tighten this, as you will need to loosen later to install u-joint..after installing engine
3) wiring harness/rear fender/taillight assembly - installing fender on the (what I call) "bag bars", but not to battery box just yet, straighten out all of wiring harness first.
4) Engine/carbs - starter will need to be removed in order to remove engine - the bottom bolt on starter will back your ratchet into the swingarm if you choose to use a ratchet, have patience and take your time using a wrench. Unless your are taking the swingarm too... I also removed the seat lock at this phase so that I could leave that plastic assembly together which houses the key insert.
5) radiator.
6)airbox
7)tighten up loose ends, wiring, fluids, bags, rear brake assembly, kickstand (has a wiring connection on it.), etc.
8)pipes
9)engine guards
10) foot pegs for rider and passenger.

One more bit of advice and I'll be done: when you get frustrated, walk away.





LASTLY, does anyone have a spare (smallest/shortest) third pipe for the right side? Mine has something rattling inside it

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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
indybobm
Member
*****
Posts: 1601

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2014, 06:47:16 AM »


w rolling chassis upright (do not install kickstand yet). rear end will include all to driveshaft, but do not tighten this, as you will need to loosen later to install u-joint..after installing engine


Good info. The only thing I would add is if you are installing the swingarm, be sure to put the side stand mounting bolts bolts in the crossmember first.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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