Carbs....the bane of my existence!!

[big poppa pump]

Been riding my bike for the past couple of weeks after putting it back together after my accident. However something just doesn't sound right, and again it might be just me. The idle seems to be somewhat rough and so does anything under 2.5k rpm. However there is absolutely no popping at any given time at any speed.

I've already run an entire can of Techron once and plan to do it again at the next gas up. However before I do this, I am also planning to change over to 38 jets this weekend. I have a few questions and I am hoping some of you knowledgeable members can help me out. A couple of my questions may sound noobish, but then again I am not that very experienced with a carb setup:

1) How do I tell if 1 or more cylinders are not firing? Does the bike pop, not idle properly or is there any other aural indicators to indicate cylinders not firing?

2) How involved of a process is it to change the oem jets to 38 jets? It's not that I am incapable of doing this even though it will be my first time, I just want to know what I am getting myself into?

3) Is a Carb-sync required after I make the change over to 38 jets? How many turns on the pilot screw after I make this change?

4) Since I will be doing this, I am thinking it might be a good idea to replace all the O-rings in the carbs? I see a lot of posts mentioning the O-ring kit from redeye tech, can somebody please tell me which kit I should get? A link to the kit would be really appreciated.

5) Anything else that needs to be maintained/checked when I am digging into the carbs? I see a few posts mention about replacing some screws in the carbs with hex screws, what is this about?

As usual, any input from y'all is highly appreciated.

BPP.

[old grouch]

I will only address the questions I have personal experience with. 
1)  When I have run my 97 with a plug wire disconnected (hence 1 plug not firing) it was blatantly obvious.  Really rough idle, lowered idle speed.
2)  If I recall from earlier posts, you have removed the carb bank before??  If not that can be a bit of a chore and some others on here are more qualified to advise you on that.  Once the carbs are removed, all that is required is to remove the float bowl, unscrew the slow jet (flat blade screwdriver) & screw in the new one.  All the usual cautions when working with brass fittings apply.
3)  Just replacing the slow jets should not affect the carb synch as that only balances the amount of airflow through the carbs.  If a synch was needed before the change it will still be needed.  If not, then not.
Hope this is some help.  Stan

[Patrick]

What has been done?
I don't really see a need for 38 lows, but, thats up to you. 38s require 1.5-1.75 turns out while 35s should be 2.25-2.5 turns.
If you think the carburetors are clean then maybe a sync is in order. When was the last time it was checked/adjusted ?
Check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
To check for a cylinder missing firing. First is a compression test just to make sure there isn't a real mechanical issue. These engines run a waste spark system, so, removing one plug wire without grounding it will kill 2 cylinders. If you remove a plug [ use insulated pliers] wire then ground it and see what happens. You should be able to tell by the engine operation whether a difference is noticed. Any cylinder where nothing is noticed is the dead cylinder.

[big poppa pump]

I just spoke to mechanic. I am going to remove the carbs and take it to him. He is going to charge me about 150 bucks to rebuild the carbs, install 38 jets and do a carb sync.

[Ricky-D]

If you have already removed the carburetors one time - that most likely is your problem.

Synchronicity goes out the window when you mess with the linkage.

An off the bike synchronization is not as accurate as one performed on the bike with the engine running and up to temperature.

It's very easy to tell if a cylinder is not running. Simply touch that particular exhaust pipe. Cold = not running.

***

[Earl in Pensacola]

If I were looking for a "not-firing" plug, I'd start the engine and at idle I'd pull one plug wire at a time to see which one didn't change the engine sound/speed etc.  With the engine off, I'd pull that plug out for inspection and maybe replacement. You could then test that wire for spark.

[pancho]

I go along with the recommendations Patrick made, but if you have already decided to remove the bank and take them for the mechanic for 38's,,,, well, that is that.

I like what you did with the bike BPP,, looks sharp,, nice color.   Is that the same Hot Rod Pearl that is the Honda OEM???   

[big poppa pump]

Thank you everybody for your suggestions. I dropped off the entire carb bank with my mechanic as he knows Valks inside out. He is going to clean the carbs completely, replace the o-rings and install the 38 jets. I've been wanting to go with 38 for a while due to some of the cold start issues I've been having with the bike in the mornings. The 38's should resolve all that. Looking at my carbs, I don't believe that it's ever been worked on, so a good cleaning was in order.