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twdurdentwd
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« on: November 28, 2014, 01:52:47 PM » |
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What does it feel like when they're going out?
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2014, 02:05:43 PM » |
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Are you talking about the pressure plate in the clutch or the rubber dampener thinggys in the rear wheel?
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Pete
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« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2014, 03:19:59 PM » |
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I think he means damper plates in the clutch!
Sorry I do not know never had any go bad.
Rubber cushions in the real wheel?
More drive line slack/play when rolling on and off throttle.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2014, 03:39:40 PM » |
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It's been a long time since mine went south but I remember the clutch lever felt "Mushy" and the clutch would disengage either at the very beginning or the very end of the lever movement.
Good news was, it still worked enough to get her home and replacement was not that difficult.
The hardest part was waiting on the parts.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2014, 04:06:51 PM » |
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If it is the clutch dampener plates, I don't think anyone has posted a failure of the plates, but rather of the rivets that bond the pads to the metal disks. The rivets separate from the pads, making them "bigger/thicker".
These would be the pressure plates if I have my terminology correct.
The dampeners are in the rear rim, behind the dampener plate. These are the rubber dampeners that the drive flange go into to adsorb the "shock" of the drive line.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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F6Dave
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« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2014, 07:05:55 AM » |
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Assuming you are talking about the clutch damper plate, the rivets are what fail, as was stated. The clutch damper is actually 2 steel drive plates riveted together, with some flat steel springs sandwiched in between. When the rivets shear, centrifugal force ejects them from the clutch pack. As they work their way out, the clutch pack briefly becomes thicker, which causes the clutch lever to feel like it hits a stop part way in. Once the rivet is spit out of the pack, the lever feels normal again. But since the damper now has less rivets holding it together, it isn't long before the next one shears and repeats the process.
If this is your problem the fix is not too difficult. I posted pictures of some shortcuts I learned when I replaced mine at about 138K miles. I'm sure the post is still available via search.
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2014, 05:36:55 PM » |
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No.
Dampener 'thingys' in rear wheel
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2014, 05:38:40 PM » |
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Would you say a vibration when letting off throttle would characterize it?
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2014, 07:09:58 PM » |
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Would you say a vibration when letting off throttle would characterize it?
No vibration, more like a mild clunk when easing off or on the throttle from a neutral speed |
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GravyTrain
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« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2014, 09:18:06 PM » |
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For a vibration on decel, or a clunk, would look at the u joint first.
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« Last Edit: November 30, 2014, 09:19:38 PM by GravyTrain »
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Pete
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« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2014, 06:44:35 AM » |
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U-joint, drive shaft splines, flange splines (rear wheel), drive line cushions (rear wheel).
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twdurdentwd
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« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2014, 01:09:31 PM » |
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For a vibration on decel, or a clunk, would look at the u joint first.
I recently had the u joint out of this bike and didn't particularly see anything unusual.... What should I look for? |
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00' Valk tourer - 6-6, trigger wheel
00' Valk std - complete build
00' I/S salvaged.. Transplant to std
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2014, 01:14:26 PM » |
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For a vibration on decel, or a clunk, would look at the u joint first.
I recently had the u joint out of this bike and didn't particularly see anything unusual.... What should I look for? A U-joint can be ready to fail and still look great. You are looking for radial movement. The best way is to clamp one end in a vise and clamp a vise grip on the other end to use as a handle and then try to twist is as it would be twisted under use. back and forth if there is any play its bad. |
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