Anyone know of a sturdier replacement for the rubber/plastic stalks on the turns

[Mr Steve]

The '59 caddy taillights I added to to the rear turn sockets are obviously heavier than the stock lenses were and so it causes a bit of a bounce over rough roads, which I suspect will end up shortening the lifespan of the bulbs due to the shaking.  I'm wondering if anyone has already been through this and knows an easy way to either reinforce the stalks or a replacement piece that doesn't have the give of the stock rubber/plastic piece.  I don't have the tools available to manufacture one myself (ie. lathe, etc).

[DFragn]

That's the reason for the rubber insert. To protect the filament. Your heavier lenses are causing it to do its job even better. I know of no direct replacement that will accept that diameter lenses and fastener position. That's a proprietary setup & housing unit.

Maybe searching the web you could find an entire rear brake, turn, plate replacement that would suit your needs. Or all individually mounted functions.

My bet is it-is-what-it-is if you want to keep the caddy lenses.

[Ricky-D]

I understand your problem but I suggest you find some additional hose to put over the existing rubber and also some hose to put inside the rubber to help with the problem you are having.

If you succeed in stiffening up the mount that holds the lights you will simply be transferring the problem to a different point and possibly causing damage which the rubber was originally intended to avoid.

Damage for instance to the taillight bracket itself, or the bolting structure, the fender and/or mounting areas of the fender.

***

[Mr Steve]

I hadn't thought of the give being specifically to save the bulbs, you are right, stiffening it up may cause the bulb to fail even sooner due to more jarring shock.  The bounce isn't that bad, although heavier than the stock lenses they replaced, they aren't overly heavy and I suspect they probably shake the same as stock and just that the six inch bullet lens makes it more noticeable.  They certainly aren't heavy enough to damage the entire fixture if I did replace that rubber piece with steel, but as was pointed out that may cause even faster failure of the bulb.

[Shockbushing Gary]

A couple comments
LEDs are pretty resistant to vibration. If you source an LED replacement for the bulb, you will solve that problem.
Next comment, at one time I had an all-in-one on the drawing board. It was to be "universal" that is, fit any M/C size license plate, and have all the functions needed for the back of the bike. It never got off the drawing board. Think it could be popular?

[Mr Steve]

I wouldn't mind the option of a nicer rear turn signal setup (reason I modified mine), but can't speak for others.  However, common sense tells me that if it was well designed, looked sharp, was not exceedingly expensive, and came already set up with run/turn/brake, that you'd have a decent market.  There are many like me who sink lots of $$ into their bikes with aftermarket bolt ons and customizations.  I don't want to even think about how much I put into my valk, I suspect it has surpassed the purchase price of the bike.

[DFragn]

  There are many like me who sink lots of $$ into their bikes with aftermarket bolt ons and customizations.  I don't want to even think about how much I put into my valk, I suspect it has surpassed the purchase price of the bike.

Ain't that sumthin'. I've owned many bikes in 35 yrs. and never put a nickel into any of them. But this damn Valk of mine has cozied up to an extra 120%+ of what I paid for her new in '98. Yep, it caught up to me with this one.

[ricoman]

the rubber absorbers are not hollow so nothing can be put inside them. They are attached with a 4mm bolt (not really sure of size) from the inside of the tail light into a threaded piece inside the rubber. This allen head bolt can be tightened some to make the rubber more firm by compressing it a bit. I doubt this will cure your problem but it's worth a try.
After market may be a choice. Seems Honda is a big believer in the "shock" absorbers on their turn signals-even the scooters have ones that look a lot like the ones on our valks. Most other mfgrs don't do this, nor do aftermarket suppliers like Kuryakyn.
Good luck and send a pic of what you wind up doing.

[woefman]

If I may Ask .....

Can you show us you Caddy Lights ?   I doubt many will take your Idea not like you can find them in every junk yard. Sounds Like a Sweet Idea Though.

[Mr Steve]

It's not a unique mod, many replace their turn signals with the '59 caddy bullets, and not just Valks, it's a popular Harley mod too.  They can be found all over, about $25-$40 a pair, depending upon where you get them.  I still have not found my cam (ok, I haven't even looked yet), but here is a pic of another valk with them, which looks just like my mounting job:



and from another angle:



Mounting them was a bit tricky, though, until I decided to try a couple wood screws between the old socket and body to lock it, then it was easy.  I think it gives a nice retro look, especially on my '97 red/white, but I am biased  

[Mr Steve]

Actually, the rubber pieces are hollow, or rather have a hole through them, your turn wires pass through them.  I have considered a steel bar through them next to the wires, just have not yet tried it, maybe this weekend I'll go back into them.  Wish I had a lathe, a nice steel replacement would be even better, or if I had the shop to cast, a billet replacement.

[ricoman]

when I said not hollow, I was referring to the comment that a piece of rubber hose could be put inside to help stiffen them. There is not room for that.
Your steel rod idea may work if you find a way to maybe attach it to the rubber bumper to actually get some stiffening effect, or use a size that will, by forcing it in, become a tight fit and result in stiffness.
If you wind up making a billet replacement, I'll bet you could find many customers for them here- put me on the list for 4.

[Mr Steve]

Yeah, not only would the steel bar need to fit tight into the rubber piece, it would also need to be attached somehow to both the signal housing and the main body, otherwise it wouldn't add much.  Not quite sure how to do that without it being permanent, like with jbweld.  I want to keep the ability to easily go back to stock should I ever sell and also need to be able to easily take it all apart again should something ever happen.  I've been watching e-bay for a spare set of rear turns that aren't too expensive.  If I can find a set then I'll have more options available while still being able to strip it back down to stock if sold.  I agree that a billet piece would be best, problem is that while I have the know-how, I don't have the equipment.  I live in a condo, which really limits what I can have for tools and obviously gives me no shop.  I wonder if I can find someone to do it.  Anyone in Central MA know any place able to do custom billet and plating for relatively small orders?

[valkmc]

Lets see if this works, my first pic post, anyway this shows the tail lights on my Valk. I hated the big wide things so I bought smaller lights and eliminated the rubber stalk. It was easy and cheap, the lights cost about $25 total. I got amber lenses and wired them to be on all the time so I am now more visible from the rear. Oh yea they have been on there for 5 or 6 years w/o any problems.

[G-Man]

Until one cracked right off.!   

Some of the roads I ride here in NY have so many potholes and raised bumps that run across the roads.  When I got to work one day, I notice that the right one cracked where the stem of the housing flairs out into the body of the housing.  Also, I did replace the rubber about two years in as they began to sag.  Never have a problem with bulbs blowing....never.

I loved the look, but I was NEVER able to find a bulb settup that worked with those lights during the daylight, especially a nice sunny day.  No problems at night.  I tried brighter 1157's (I wired them for running and turn signal), I tried LEDs with varying angles, and I even tried this funky looking halogen things with two bulbs (a 20W running and 50W turn/brake) sticking off of it. 

I picked up a new stock set-up and wanted to re-install the caddy lights, but because of the low visibility during the day, I haven't done it yet.  I read that painting the inside of the hosing a glossy bright white will help, but I still would like a better bulb.  I believe that the problem is that the bulb sits too far back in the housing.  An extension of some kind that would move the bulb out into the lense would be the best solution.  When the light is on the caddy fin, it is at eye level of the driver behind, but on the bike, it's at bumper level.

[Mr Steve]

That's one of the problems with the aftermarket ones, they don't contain the defuser lens and they use a dull base.   This makes it harder to light up that bullet piece.  Find a set of defuser lenses (they go inside) and use the shiny side of some tinfoil for the backing and daylight visibility will be much better.  Unfortunately, the defuser lenses will probably cost you more than the lights did, I haven't seen any aftermarket ones.  Good to know on the cracked stalk piece, makes needing to reinforce it more important than just stopping the wiggle.  I also ride some rough roads.  City roads are always bad, it seems.