timing belt

[deadvelvet]

At what mileage should you change the timing belt

[Grandpot]

The manual says to check it every 100,000 miles, but does not state a replacement interval.  I own an auto repair shop and can tell you that a timing belt can look good and then fail a short time later.  Most car timing belts need replacing at 60,000 miles, some go as far as 90,000.  Very few are more than that.

The Valkyrie engine is a "interference" engine, which means if the belt breaks, the pistons may hit the valves and bend them.  Very expensive.

Personally, I change my belts every 50,000 miles.  I also change the tension rollers and bearings every other timing belt change.  Peace of mind.

[bentwrench]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

[Chrisj CMA]

At what mileage should you change the timing belt

First of all...there are two belts.  Most riders tend to change THEM at or around 100,000 miles.  As was stated, its gonna cost you lots if one should break so replacing them every 100,000 is good insurance

[John Schmidt]

Just remember, those belts are guaranteed for the life of the engine; you break a belt, that's the life of your engine.    As Chris stated....many shoot for 100k, I'm a long way from that on my ride.

[gordonv]

By the time you take it apart to the point of inspecting the belts properly as per the manual, you might as well replace them for the added cost of the belts.

You don't need to go to Honda. Just buy the Gates belt from your supplier of choice (some are less expensive than other suppliers), $25 - $50 for a pair.

I did my 88' GW just last year, 61K miles and 26 years old. I'm more worried of a bike with low miles and age, than one with high miles and age. Don't like the idea of the belt sitting in one spot for a very long time.

[Cracker Jack]

I change my oil at every tire change and my timing belts, fork seals, wheel bearings and brake pads at every second tire change. Cheap insurance and peace of mind you know.

Never had a breakdown  on the road on any of these components, must be doing something right.
 

[Bighead]

so you change your timing belts , fork seals, bearings and brake pads every 20k miles(WHY)? and only change your oil every 10K miles. WOW don't sound too smart from here
do you pull your rear tire every 100 miles to do a rear end re-lube and spline check?

[Chrisj CMA]

I change my oil at every tire change and my timing belts, fork seals, wheel bearings and brake pads at every second tire change. Cheap insurance and peace of mind you know.

Never had a breakdown  on the road on any of these components, must be doing something right.
 

That's the most bazar maintenance schedule Ive ever head of.  If you can go through a whole set of tires on one oil change you are getting some horrible mileage on them tires, or you are running on some tired oil by the time its changed.  So you push the oil to its limits and needlessly change fork seals and belts.  And if you really wear out tires in 10K or less miles and you change wheel bearings every 20K as well that's just nutz

This is not good advise

[Cracker Jack]

Absent minded me, I forgot to mention that I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change. Cheap insuranc you know. 

Works for me, never had a problem.

[Rio Wil]

I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change.


Soooooo, what do you do with the used parts??

[Cracker Jack]

I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change.


Soooooo, what do you do with the used parts??

I put them in the trash. If I thought they were good enough to use, I wouldn't remove them. I don't think it's fair to put them off on someone else if I wouldn't use them myself.

[98valk]

The manual says to check it every 100,000 miles, but does not state a replacement interval.  I own an auto repair shop and can tell you that a timing belt can look good and then fail a short time later.  Most car timing belts need replacing at 60,000 miles, some go as far as 90,000.  Very few are more than that.

The Valkyrie engine is a "interference" engine, which means if the belt breaks, the pistons may hit the valves and bend them.  Very expensive.

Personally, I change my belts every 50,000 miles.  I also change the tension rollers and bearings every other timing belt change.  Peace of mind.

per EPA regs since 1997 all timing belts must last 100k miles minimum and are designed that way.  the old cheap designed belts of the '80s that only lasted 60k miles are long gone.
if your shop is changing sooner u can save your customer money by telling them it is a warranty item at the dealer, their owners manual will state this.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change.


Soooooo, what do you do with the used parts??

I put them in the trash. If I thought they were good enough to use, I wouldn't remove them. I don't think it's fair to put them off on someone else if I wouldn't use them myself.

I'd gladly pay shipping some extra for your inconvenience.

[Hook#3287]

Absent minded me, I forgot to mention that I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change. Cheap insuranc you know. 

Works for me, never had a problem.

That's a lot of wench time for piece of mind.

Lets see, if I followed your schedule I'd have gone thru 5 u-joints, 5 sets of pinion cup & drive shafts, 5 sets of fork seals, 5 sets of timing belts, 10 pair of bearings, 15 pair of brake pads, and I'd be gearing up to do it all again.

That's on just 1 bike.

From Partzilla, that totals over $2,500.00 with out associated o-rings, grease, shipping, etc.

Instead I've used 0 u-joints, 0 pinion cup & drive shafts, 2 sets fork seals, 1 set timing belts, 1 set bearings, 6-8 sets brake pads.  About $500.00.

Seems like your forgetting some things, what about damper sets, brake rotors, water pump, thermostat, alternator, batteries, some of these items could potentially leave on the side of the road.

I understand preventative maintenance, but you might be taking it to the extreme and wasting a
lot of time, money, and good parts.

There's a guy in Texas right now that might need one of your pinion cup drive shafts sets if you haven't trashed them.  He's gone thru a few sets.  But he's got over 450K on his Valk.

[Hook#3287]

I thought maybe Cracker Jack was pulling our collective leg.  Cheap insurance just got more expensive.  New pads, u-joint, drive shaft, blah, blah, blah every 1500 miles now.

Cracker Jack
Member
*****
Posts: 90


View Profile  Email  Personal Message (Offline)
   
Re: How to oil change on a long road trip....
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2014, 11:31:38 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote
I think everybody should change their oil when they want to. cooldude The bottom line is that everybody will have the same results, no oil related failures. I change mine every 750 miles uglystupid2 and it has worked out great for me. Cheap insurance!!

[Chrisj CMA]

Absent minded me, I forgot to mention that I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change. Cheap insuranc you know. 

Works for me, never had a problem.

OK, I get it now.  I think its smart for you to change the water pump every coolant change and clutch every winter when the bike is set up more.  You should also buy a few alternators while they are available.  You should need one about every other trip to walmart.  So replace the alternator with your monthly new battery.  How many final drives do you go through in a year?  Id say you probably need one every six months.   

[98valk]

Absent minded me, I forgot to mention that I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change. Cheap insuranc you know. 

Works for me, never had a problem.

do u change out every light bulb in your place of residence every 3 months?
cause u never know when one will burn out at night. Its just cheap insurance. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Absent minded me, I forgot to mention that I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change. Cheap insuranc you know.  

Works for me, never had a problem.

do u change out every light bulb in your place of residence every 3 months?
cause u never know when one will burn out at night. Its just cheap insurance.  

CA, its obvious hes just pulling our legs........no one is that stupid.  Well I take that back after the 80mph video, there are some that stupid, but I think CJ is not one of them.  Maybe he is trying to make a point that the Valkyrie doesn't need preventive maintenance.  Or making fun of grandpot for changing the tensioners.  He probably doesn't change anything, ever.

Sure derailed this simple thread though.  Change the belts at 100,000 miles and don't worry about them.

[John Schmidt]

Geez you guys sure are slow in the New Year!    I even told my HD riding neighbor with the New Year it was time to put fresh air in the tires along with an oil change. His wife just giggled and winked when he got this serious look on his face followed by questions. He caught on a bit faster!

[gordonv]

Absent minded me, I forgot to mention that I also change my u-joint, drive shaft and pinion cup at the second tire change. Cheap insuranc you know. 

Works for me, never had a problem.

That's a lot of wench time for piece of mind.

Wench time? I wish. Any time is wench time, and the longer and the harder the job the better the out come. 

[Brian]

The manual says to check it every 100,000 miles, but does not state a replacement interval.  I own an auto repair shop and can tell you that a timing belt can look good and then fail a short time later.  Most car timing belts need replacing at 60,000 miles, some go as far as 90,000.  Very few are more than that.

The Valkyrie engine is a "interference" engine, which means if the belt breaks, the pistons may hit the valves and bend them.  Very expensive.

Personally, I change my belts every 50,000 miles.  I also change the tension rollers and bearings every other timing belt change.  Peace of mind.


Hey grandpot. I hope you have the old OEM tensioners. They can be rebuilt easily and for under $25.

[DK]

What, if any, problems do any of you know about concerning timing belt tensioner idlers & water pump bearings?

My '200 Valk with 14000 miles sometimes makes a high pitch engine speed related noise which sounds  to me to like a bearing whine that seems to be coming from within the timing belt cover. It begins about 2500rpm & diminishes and goes away after 4,000rpm. It's not bad enough to make me think impending disaster but it is becoming a mild concern.

The noise level is within that of the normal Valk gear whine but it it is not selected gear related.

Any help would be appreciated.

[R J]

What, if any, problems do any of you know about concerning timing belt tensioner idlers & water pump bearings?

My '200 Valk with 14000 miles sometimes makes a high pitch engine speed related noise which sounds  to me to like a bearing whine that seems to be coming from within the timing belt cover. It begins about 2500rpm & diminishes and goes away after 4,000rpm. It's not bad enough to make me think impending disaster but it is becoming a mild concern.

The noise level is within that of the normal Valk gear whine but it it is not selected gear related.

Any help would be appreciated.

If anyone has mucked with the timing belts, the whine you refer to sounds like a tensioner is TOOO  tight.     They should be set a tad loose, or just a little less then snug.

1st time I dug into MGM for a 100K look see of the belt, I noticed one tensioner was a bit tight.  Loosen it up and readjusted both tensioner's.     342K and I'm still on the original tensioner's.

[O-B-1]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

[O-B-1]

What, if any, problems do any of you know about concerning timing belt tensioner idlers & water pump bearings?

My '200 Valk with 14000 miles sometimes makes a high pitch engine speed related noise which sounds  to me to like a bearing whine that seems to be coming from within the timing belt cover. It begins about 2500rpm & diminishes and goes away after 4,000rpm. It's not bad enough to make me think impending disaster but it is becoming a mild concern.

The noise level is within that of the normal Valk gear whine but it it is not selected gear related.

Any help would be appreciated.

Have a windscreen on that bike? You'll hear a lot of engine sounds with one on, the concave backside amplifies every noise from behind & below that windscreen.

[hoosier jaybird]

Bentwrench, would you mind checking the Napa part number again for the timing belts? The generic parts list gives a NAPA number as 250275. Was there a number change since the list was published? Thanks, Jaybird.

[DK]

O-B-1

Strangely, I just put a new 25" Clearview shield  with a vent on last week when I first noticed the sound.

The old shield had been cut own 4" so I'm now 8" taller & 1" wider. Seems you may be dead - on.

Do you mean the sound is merely amplified so there is no problem or is it that the new shield enables me to hear a problem?

[Tfrank59]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

What was the part number of that belt – 20275?  I was trying to get that gates belt at rockauto.com and nothing came up for that number.  I also tried the napa site and came up with nothing. ???

[R J]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

What was the part number of that belt – 20275?  I was trying to get that gates belt at rockauto.com and nothing came up for that number.  I also tried the napa site and came up with nothing. ???

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

The correct # is 250275

[Tfrank59]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

What was the part number of that belt – 20275?  I was trying to get that gates belt at rockauto.com and nothing came up for that number.  I also tried the napa site and came up with nothing. ???

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

The correct # is 250275

Perfect, thanks!

[lifguardct]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

Looks like this one??
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-T275-Timing-Belt/dp/B000CRDMS8/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=GL1500CF%20Valkyrie%20Interstate%7C17894&Year=2000%7C2000&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=motorcycle

[quexpress]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

Looks like this one??
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-T275-Timing-Belt/dp/B000CRDMS8/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=GL1500CF%20Valkyrie%20Interstate%7C17894&Year=2000%7C2000&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=motorcycle

Yes! 

[bentwrench]

Bentwrench, would you mind checking the Napa part number again for the timing belts? The generic parts list gives a NAPA number as 250275. Was there a number change since the list was published? Thanks, Jaybird.

I'm wrong,I typed that out too fast for my typing skills

[Jschwenk]

ok, I just picked up my first Valkyrie.  98' with only 22,300 miles.  i'm not worried about the miles, but the age.  I feel I need to replace the timing belt ASAP.  should I?  what kind of time is involved?  thanks,  Joe

[Woton]

Well, assuming you are not being facetious there is a current thread on this very issue just ten spots down on the Tech Board.

Check out that thread, do a search for the additional past threads on the subject if you wish, and enjoy.

Congrats on the Valk!  

[gordonv]

ok, I just picked up my first Valkyrie.  98' with only 22,300 miles.  i'm not worried about the miles, but the age.  I feel I need to replace the timing belt ASAP.  should I?  what kind of time is involved?  thanks,  Joe

My new to me 88' GW 3 years ago, had 63K miles on it, and looks like never done. Waited till the next year at 25 years to change. The inspected out fine. But then, a GW takes a lot more effort to get through all that plastic to get to the belts, you might as well change them out. But I did look for the cheapest supplier for a set of Gates belts I could find.

[O-B-1]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

What was the part number of that belt – 20275?  I was trying to get that gates belt at rockauto.com and nothing came up for that number.  I also tried the napa site and came up with nothing. ???

Price   
GATES T275 {#250275} PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt; 21/32" x 33" (88 Teeth) Info
Category: Timing Belt

[O-B-1]

I do mine at 50k also.The napa gates 20275 is oe quality at 1/3 the price.

The Gates belts I bought at RockAuto.com were like $16 each, and when they arrived, also had the Honda OEM part number labeled on the box.

What was the part number of that belt – 20275?  I was trying to get that gates belt at rockauto.com and nothing came up for that number.  I also tried the napa site and came up with nothing. ???

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

The correct # is 250275

Price   
GATES T275 {#250275} PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt; 21/32" x 33" (88 Teeth) Info
Category: Timing Belt                                                $12.94 EA