brake rotor

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

My rear brake rotor is worn below spec. I just ordered a used one with plenty of meat left on it. For those of you who have already replaced one or more of your rotors, "did you also replace the rotor mounting bolts"? Has anyone ever heard of a failure related to not replacing these bolts when replacing the rotor?

Thanks,
Mike

[Skinhead]

The reason for replacing the bolts is that the new ones (and the used ones) have a thread locker "patch" applied to them that is similar to loctite, but a dry paste like material that is only supposed to be used one time.  I reused mine, clened them up with a wire wheel and applied blue loctite before installing.

[PharmBoy]

You shouldn't have any problem as long as the new rotor is the same as the one you took off and your rotor bolts are still in good shape.  There are two different rotors and I don't remember when the change came.  It's for sure that the '97s & '98s are different than the Interstates which began in '99.  The rotor bolts are different also.  The early rotors & bolts have the head of the bolt above the rotor surface and the later rotors have their bolts countersunk into the rotor and are level with the rotor surface.  I spent a lot of time looking up parts #s a few years ago, but if the bolts that came out of your rotor fit the new one, you should be good to go.  Might put a drop of medium Lock-tite on each of them...Jim

[hubcapsc]

97, 98 & 99 Tourers and Standards use the "old" rotors and wheels.

Everything else uses the "new" rotors and wheels.

Rotors need to match wheels, so a 99 Tourer rotor is fine for a
97 Standard wheel, but a 2001 Standard rotor is not.

People put washers as shims under new rotors on old wheels and
get away with it, but I don't think you'd want to get in that
situation on purpose...

-Mike

[salty1]

The reason for replacing the bolts is that the new ones (and the used ones) have a thread locker "patch" applied to them that is similar to loctite, but a dry paste like material that is only supposed to be used one time.  I reused mine, clened them up with a wire wheel and applied blue loctite before installing.

I agree.    Pay attention to the torque spec. 

[Hook#3287]

The reason for replacing the bolts is that the new ones (and the used ones) have a thread locker "patch" applied to them that is similar to loctite, but a dry paste like material that is only supposed to be used one time.  I reused mine, clened them up with a wire wheel and applied blue loctite before installing.

I agree.    Pay attention to the torque spec. 

Yeah, torque spec, them suckers snap rather easly.

[indybobm]

97, 98 & 99 Tourers and Standards use the "old" rotors and wheels.

Everything else uses the "new" rotors and wheels.

Rotors need to match wheels, so a 99 Tourer rotor is fine for a
97 Standard wheel, but a 2001 Standard rotor is not.

People put washers as shims under new rotors on old wheels and
get away with it, but I don't think you'd want to get in that
situation on purpose...

-Mike

I have found that if you look at the wheel around where the brake rotor mounts, you will find either a '1 J' or a '2 J'. The 1J wheels take the old rotor and the 2J take the new rotors.
The reason you need to check this is that the wheel might not be the original that came with the bike.

[da prez]

  I always run a tap in the holes to clean them out. I HAVE SEEN SOME THAT THE THREAD LOCKER FILLED THE BOTTOM OF THE HOLE AND THE BOLT BOTTOMED OUT BEFORE CONTACTING THE ROTOR.  Take your time as a mistake can be costly. I also dry set the bolts before using the thread locker. THIS WILL INSURE THAT THE BOLT HEAD CONTACTS THE ROTOR.  ( I seem to keep hitting the caps lock)  It only takes a few minutes to do it right.   

                                 da prez

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Wish I'd posted this question before I ordered the rotor. I forgot about the difference in rotors until you guys mentioned it. I ride a 97, the rotor is one of the newer ones with the countersink. If I'm in the plant tomorrow I'll take a look at Andy's 2000 Valk. It's spending a month or two stored in the hanger at work. If it will work on his bike I'll keep it till he needs it, if not, I'll see if anybody here on the board wants it.

Thanks a million guys. I might not have noticed until I tried to install it without the shared wisdom here.

Frye

[Farther]

Somewhat off topic but I would think that if your rear rotor is gone that the front would not be far behind.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Somewhat off topic but I would think that if your rear rotor is gone that the front would not be far behind.

Fronts are good. I use my rear brake a lot more since I went darkside around 80,000 miles ago. The rear braking traction is probably double what it was before. Also, I use the rear frequently during low speed parking lot type situations as was taught in the "ride like a pro" video series.

Went to the plant and looked at son Andy's bike today. It uses the newer type rotor so I guess I'll just bank this one till it's needed.

[Chrisj CMA]

Somewhat off topic but I would think that if your rear rotor is gone that the front would not be far behind.

Fronts are good. I use my rear brake a lot more since I went darkside around 80,000 miles ago. The rear braking traction is probably double what it was before. Also, I use the rear frequently during low speed parking lot type situations as was taught in the "ride like a pro" video series.

Went to the plant and looked at son Andy's bike today. It uses the newer type rotor so I guess I'll just bank this one till it's needed.

Slow riding, yes, rear brakes are the key.  For sure stopping you should not forsake the fronts, to do so is to risk your neck.  Dark side or no dark side, on two wheels you should rely on front brakes to save your neck, that means you have to be in the habit of using them

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Somewhat off topic but I would think that if your rear rotor is gone that the front would not be far behind.

Fronts are good. I use my rear brake a lot more since I went darkside around 80,000 miles ago. The rear braking traction is probably double what it was before. Also, I use the rear frequently during low speed parking lot type situations as was taught in the "ride like a pro" video series.

Went to the plant and looked at son Andy's bike today. It uses the newer type rotor so I guess I'll just bank this one till it's needed.

Slow riding, yes, rear brakes are the key.  For sure stopping you should not forsake the fronts, to do so is to risk your neck.  Dark side or no dark side, on two wheels you should rely on front brakes to save your neck, that means you have to be in the habit of using them

During one of the advanced rider courses I've taken my Valk to I stopped faster from a higher speed than any bike there including my son's ducati monster. The duc's brakes are amazing but the rear wheel lofting prevents it from out stopping my valk.

The boy and I used to compete against each other with emergency stops from 60 mph on a local county road. The valk always beat the duc. You can bet my front tire was "leaving a mark" on and off during these runs. But, since it won't stoppie the CT really makes a difference even after the weight transfer and even when it's sliding.

The duc will leave me sniffing exhaust when it come to acceleration though.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

The General Altimax's I run now don't have the traction the GY TT's I used to run back then did though. Nor does the altimax squeal when you light it up the way the TT's did. But, the altimax gives me less steering input on uneven roads than the TT's which is why I've stuck with them.

I might not be able to so easily out stop the duc now because of the different tires but we've both gotten saner and no longer engage in that kind of thing anyway. He's got a family depending on him now and I don't heal well or quickly anymore.