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Author Topic: In DFW and at a complete loss. Headlight Gremlins! Please help!  (Read 1025 times)
Mitchapalooza
Member
*****
Posts: 63


Fort Worth, TX


« on: January 28, 2015, 11:53:57 PM »

Hey Folks,

As I said, I've been out in the garage for three hours now and I'm at a total and complete loss - on the verge of insanity, and not enough beer in the world to make it better.  I've already posted this in Tech, though I figured I would reach out to the local crowd.

I've had a few electrical gremlins as of recent, and it has kept me from riding, which is unacceptable.  On the way back from my ranch, the turn signal/brake light fuse blew.  No big deal. 
Prior to that, I was having starting/ignition and headlight issues, which of course led me to service the starter switch prongs.  No issues with that since.

Most recently (as in about a month ago), I've got no headlights.  I didn't notice - as I do have a pair of good highway lights, but I saw my reflection in another car and I have no high or low beam.  Below are the facts and what I have done so far.  I'm completely open to suggestions, help, miracles:

*The blue high beam indicator on the headlight housing works when the high/low beam switch is toggled!
Checked the fuse, all of them, in fact - Good (hence the high beam indicator working)
Disassembled the starter switch housing (4 times) to ensure it is good - It is.
Bridged contacts on both starter terminals and Headlight terminals on said switch - starter function is flawless, no luck with headlight.
Disassembled the high/low beam switch - contacts cleaned, continuity tested, indicator light works, all good.
Removed Halogen Bulb and checked for continuity - Good.
Ensured there is a relay installed or for aftermarket highway lights or they are on a separate circuit - They are on a separate circuit.
Tested for appropriate continuity/power at all points from battery ground (starter switch, high/low beam switch, at three headlight terminals) - All appear to be good. 
Gone through Clymer manual wiring schematic to trace appropriate wiring (now, I'm no electrical genius but I can generally work my way through a schematic) - As far as I can tell, everything looks okay.

That is about it.  I've been beating my head up against the wall here.  I'm about to the point of putting it all back together and taking it to a shop (which I have NEVER done, ever). 
If anyone has a fool proof way of troubleshooting this issue, I'm all ears.  If anyone lives in the DFW area (I'm in Fort Worth by TCU) that is better at this kind of thing and can help me fix it.  I will be at your door with a case of beer first thing tomorrow after work with a case of beer.  My girl works for MillerCoors, so I've got a pallet of it and happy to share!

Please help and thanks ahead of time for your replies!



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RainMaker
Member
*****
Posts: 6626


VRCC#24130 - VRCCDS#0117 - IBA#48473

Arlington, TX


« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2015, 06:00:53 AM »

Have you verified that you do not have power at the socket when you turn on the power switch and toggle between low and high beams with a meter?  Have you tried a different bulb, even though the current bulb shows it has continuity?  How about the ground/wiring for the tail light?  Guess there is a possibility it may be grounding out your circuit if a wire is frayed.  Did not hear if you had taken a look at the tail light to see if it was burning.

There are multiple fuses - can't think offhand if there is a separate one just for the headlight, but I'd check continuity on all of them just to be sure.

And that's my 2 cents.

RainMaker
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2005 BMW R1200 GS
2000 Valkyrie Interstate
1998 Valkyrie Tourer
1981 GL1100I GoldWing
1972 CB500K1
Mitchapalooza
Member
*****
Posts: 63


Fort Worth, TX


« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2015, 10:24:34 AM »

Rainmaker,

Thanks for the reply.  When I was troubleshooting last night, my multimeter was not functioning (of course) and I verified it has a bad fuse.  One of my continuity testers does have a voltage reading on it though, and it appears that I do have power at the terminal.  The ground, however, is what I'm concerned about.  I have not tried a different bulb yet, though that is next on my list.  I understand that despite showing continuity, those halogen bulbs can still be tricky and not illuminate despite showing a closed circuit. 
Forgive my ignorance, though I am not sure how the tail light is pertinent in this issue.  As far as I remember, it is burning, though the addition of the aftermarket hard bags with built-in tail lights could make this a more difficult issue if it is a contributor.  If you know of a way to check/diagnose this, please let me know.  I'll pick up a new bulb and multimeter fuse today on the way home.

Thanks again.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
Member
*****
Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2015, 10:25:04 AM »

Interstates have relays in the stock lighting systems. Check shoptalk for replacements you can buy at auto parts stores. My bike did the same thing to me once. Started up after fueling and no lights decided to drive home with just running lights. After riding a mile or two the lights came back on and never had problem again.
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