Doc809
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« on: January 30, 2015, 07:30:56 AM » |
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I have been told that there is a coolant fluid called (I think) Engine Ice. Supposed to lower the running temp of an engine for warmer weather. Anybody have any experience/knowledge with that product? Is it safe for a bike? ETC? Thanks in advance for your input. L
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How much fun can I have before I have to go to hell?
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Houdini
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Posts: 1975
VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144
Allen, TX
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« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2015, 08:29:30 AM » |
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I tried a product called Water Wetter to improve my coolant performance and lower the engine temp. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74It did nothing......
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"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need? 
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2015, 08:37:17 AM » |
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I don't know about Engine Ice*, but there is an old thread or two here about Red Line Water Wetter** .
From memory... while some drag race applications run it pure for significant cooling benefit, most would use it more as an additive to assist the 50/50 mix of distilled water (NEVER tap) and silicate free antifreeze and get a pretty small, couple-degree assist in ordinary operating temps. You cannot run it pure if you live in freezing winters (where you need antifreeze).
Last time I changed coolant in one of my bikes, I added a few ounces of Watter Wetter. Maybe it helped and maybe it didn't (didn't hurt). I have temperature oil dipsticks in both bikes and as long as I am at or below 220*, I know I'm good, and I could never determine if the bike I added it to ran any cooler than the other. There are supposed to be a couple of added benefits to Watter Wetter besides extra cooling but don't remember what they are (anti bubbles, anti corrosion??)
I think if I lived/rode in TX AZ or Hades (or spent a lot of time in really hot stop and go city traffic), I would look into this. But for the rest of the country I think if you have good decently fresh 50/50 mix, and good synthetic oil, you are going to be fine.
If I do get caught in traffic in the hot summer, I turn my bike off when sitting (actually I turn it off when sitting in any temps). I will go 70 miles out of my way to get away from such traffic, if I have to.
That's all I got. (What Houdini said)
* http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=engine+ice&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=3527198589&ref=pd_sl_4zgzgqutch_e
** http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10
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« Last Edit: January 30, 2015, 08:46:33 AM by Jess from VA »
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RainMaker
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Posts: 6626
VRCC#24130 - VRCCDS#0117 - IBA#48473
Arlington, TX
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« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2015, 08:51:17 AM » |
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Cyclegear.com has it and a couple of other products similar to it. Read on!
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 2005 BMW R1200 GS 2000 Valkyrie Interstate 1998 Valkyrie Tourer 1981 GL1100I GoldWing 1972 CB500K1
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da prez
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« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2015, 08:57:33 AM » |
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There is a product called (if I remember) keep-cool. It is used in conctruction equipment and trucks. It will lower the coolant operating temperature and has been used for years. Check with a NAPA parts store or whom-ever is near you.
da prez
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chauffeur
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« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2015, 11:19:23 AM » |
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The mere concept of significantly lowering temperature with an additive is absurd. Unless you have excessive internal or external fouling (and the product removes it) or it has the "magical" ability to improve heat transfer coefficients, you are generally outside the bounds of proven formulas for heat transfer and fluid flow.
It's antifreeze with a great name (for marketing purposes).
It would be interesting to see the data that supports the manufacturer's claims. Might have something to do with their recommendation to flush the coolant system before using it. Hmmmmm.......
Don't hesitate to give it a shot, Doc. It won't hurt anything except your pocket.
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Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2015, 12:19:31 PM » |
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I haven't researched them, but I reckon these additives base their claims on improved surfactant properties. This means that they produce a more intimate contact with the heat bearing surfaces which are then able to transfer heat to the coolant more effectively, then reverse the process through more intmate contact with the surfaces in the radiator for greater transfer of coolant heat to the air.
I will observe that lowering the operating temperature below about 220° F is not good.
Moisture condenses in the crankcase and co-exists as water with the oil. While it doesn't exactly mix with the oil, it will emulsify and get circulated with the oil, reducing the lubrication effectiveness.
You need to heat the oil at least to the point that the water in the crankcase will boil off and be vented out. It recondenses as the icky mung that collects in the dragon drool tube.
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« Last Edit: January 30, 2015, 12:41:44 PM by Valkpilot »
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing 
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5_19
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« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2015, 04:43:48 AM » |
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Hey Doc,
That doesn't make any sense whatsoever. The thermostat determines the Engine temp. The engine produces enough heat to reach the thermostat setpoint regardless of cooling fluid.
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 Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle. IBA # 45723 2001 Honda Valkyrie Standard (Sold after 9 years) 2009 BMW R1200 GSA
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Evil Santa
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« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2015, 07:14:32 AM » |
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We were required to run straight water, Water Wetter or Engine Ice in our road race bikes. It worked in that very harsh environment. The regular glycol antifreeze is very hard to clean up in case of a wreck. The engine ice will not freeze in cold weather. The water wetter will so if your going to try it and live in an area the freezes use engine ice. Does it work yes, do I run it in my daily drivers no. I live in Northern Minnesota so overheating has never been a problem. 
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MarcusS
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Posts: 311
New To Me August 2013
North Houston
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« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2015, 06:56:16 PM » |
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I don't know what is in those chemicals but I can make a better cooling liquid than strait water. Glycol is light and has a poor conductivity and will even make your engine overheat if you use to much. Once the engine and radiator surfaces are wet, the surfactant does nothing. I think most of these tricks are using heavy water. Everyone knows that salt water is denser and causes rust faster. It is the chlorides that attack the metal. And make the use of standard salt a bad idea. Potassium nitrates and some other salts have been used in tractor tires for years to add a few hundred pounds when mixed with water. High density and high conductivity water will pull the heat to the radiator more efficiently. If your fan is cycling on and off why care? Mr Clean rides in 100+ and the bike does not care. I get hot and wear light colored clothes to minimize the solar thermal gain. The cold oil issue is true. Engines that do not reach operating temps regularly sludge up bad.
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Life goes on whether you are in it for the ride or not.
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YODA MASTER
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« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2015, 07:37:34 PM » |
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Well, let me state for the record: I don't know! ???
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JC ALLEN VRCC 22906 '03 BLACK 'HOWIEFIED' VALKYRIE '99 BLACK VALKYRIE INTERSTATE SUPER VALK '14 ALL BLACK GOLD WING - ALL BAD
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f-Stop
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Posts: 1810
'98 Standard named Hildr
Driftwood, Texas
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« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2015, 05:31:13 AM » |
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Moisture condenses in the crankcase and co-exists as water with the oil. While it doesn't exactly mix with the oil, it will emulsify and get circulated with the oil, reducing the lubrication effectiveness.
You need to heat the oil at least to the point that the water in the crankcase will boil off and be vented out. It recondenses as the icky mung that collects in the dragon drool tube.
…always wondered where that icky mung came from… 
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 Had my blinker on across three states!
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