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dpcarson
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« on: February 15, 2015, 04:50:33 PM » |
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That thing was a beast to get out to remove the carbs. Is it necessary or can you go without it? I don't know if there is any way I can get the dang thing back in?
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers.  |
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2015, 05:09:40 PM » |
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That plastic piece is a deflector. The debate continues on if it's purpose is to protect the carb area above the engine or separate the radiator from the engine heat or keep the carbs cooler from radiator heat or just to drive us crazy trying to put it back.
Anyways, after swearing every time i had to replace it, I just learned this winter that it's a lot easier to replace if you remove the engine mounts behind the carbs and slide the carbs back some.
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2015, 05:14:41 PM » |
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That thing was a beast to get out to remove the carbs. Is it necessary or can you go without it? I don't know if there is any way I can get the dang thing back in?
What plastic engine cover? Are you referring to the plastic heat shield Behind the radiator?, if you are, you should not have removed it. If you want to remove or install the carbs, simply remove the engine hangers and that affords plenty of room for removal of the carbs. Don't complete the job without installing it or the heat will eat you up during summer. In |
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« Last Edit: February 15, 2015, 05:18:20 PM by Red Diamond »
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
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98valk
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2015, 05:16:07 PM » |
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if both engine hangers are removed per the service manual to remove the carbs, the plastic radiator shroud does not and should not be removed. manual does not require it to be removed. I've removed the carbs a few times never needed to remove the shroud. there was a thread a month or so ago about this.
no shroud can cause carb/fuel problems during high ambient temps.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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dpcarson
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« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2015, 05:31:13 PM » |
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Thanks everybody. That is the information I needed. Now that the engine is completely out, hopefully it will be a lot easier to get everything back in. The airbag was a piece of cake compared to that thing. I will try to figure out an easier way if I have to do a carb job again.
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers. |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2015, 10:03:50 AM » |
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It's plastic, so heat it up with a heat gun or other means. Makes it a lot more flexible. But first, do as others told you....don't remove it to begin with if just removing the carbs. After reinstalling the engine, put it back in place before mounting the carbs.
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signart
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« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2015, 10:04:20 AM » |
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Why remove both engine hangers, it can only come out one side?
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Crackerborn
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« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2015, 11:09:15 AM » |
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The deflector was a huge deterrent for getting the air-box to seat properly on my Tourer. I removed it and the air-box fell into place (almost). I had a few 90+ degree days and regretted removing the thing. I did a little modification (bandsaw) to the bottom of the plastic part and it now does not interfere with the air-box installation and deflects the warm air away from the boyz for any future 90* days.
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Life is about the ride, not the destination. 97 Valkyrie Tour 99 Valkyrie Interstate  |
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lightnj
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« Reply #8 on: November 01, 2015, 05:46:46 PM » |
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To the next victim: Just simply cut from the bottom in center of the heat shield plastic cover up to where it starts to curve. This allows just enough flex to work each side in to seat properly so that when your installing the airbox with 6 tubes they will seat correctly into the carbs. My 1st attempt putting the heat shield plastic cover in was not seating correctly so the airbox tubes would not all seat properly into the carbs.  |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2015, 06:08:56 PM » |
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Honestly....if you're having trouble reinstalling the airbox due to the heat shield, then neither is installed correctly. Usually it's a wire bundle that makes installing the airbox a PITA, but that's easy enough to overcome by using a racthet strap, leaves both hands free.
I've never pulled the shield when pulling carbs, and I've worked on numerous bikes. I did have to reinstall one the owner had removed, a heat gun made it very flexible....and wear gloves, those edges will cut you bad. As for the airbox, the first time was a challenge until I figured out it's not really that big a deal either. Now, just a few minutes and they're in. Again....on numerous bikes.
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2015, 05:41:59 AM » |
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...
I've never pulled the shield when pulling carbs, and I've worked on numerous bikes...
Same here. It's not that big of a deal to remove the rear motor mounts then move the carbs slightly rearward and out to the side. |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2015, 06:10:18 AM » |
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Anything is hard to do if you believe it to be so.
I have replaced a couple of these air dams. I didn't know it was supposed to be hard. Pretty easy if the air box is off, you go at it from the top (as per the manual).
It is tough to get it back on from the front (if the air box is not being removed). I put it in the oven for 5 min or so and that made it more flexible
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