Cobra Light Bar Wiring Instructions

[Valkorado]

I'm needing the wiring instructions for a Cobra light bar.  Mine was poorly wired and is shorting, need to have it redone.  If anyone can photocopy and send or email to me I'd really appreciate it.

[PharmBoy]

I just finished this very thing on a '97 standard last week.  Chet from Rattlebars posted more electrical info on Valkyrie installations and modifications than most people will ever need.  I think that you can find what you need here....Jim
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/foglites.html

[hubcapsc]

Here's a diagram I got from Rivco, I like it.

http://myweb.clemson.edu/~hubcap/diagram.jpg

I don't use the button on my Cobra light bar, my "any" wire
is the blue wire in the headlight, and my switch is the
normal headlight dim/bright switch... my light bar
comes on when I hit bright...

-Mike

[Valkorado]

Thanks guys.  Pharmboy, I think that is to much information for me.  Mike, I don't see the link.  I sure like the idea of the bar switching on with the brights.  

Thank you!

[hubcapsc]

Thanks guys.  Pharmboy, I think that is to much information for me.  Mike, I don't see the link.  I sure like the idea of the bar switching on with the brights. 

That's because I forget to put in the link  ... it is there now, look again.

And Rattlebars has lots of good stuff, every time I mess with a relay I review this:

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/basicrelay.jpg

If you decide to use the high beam idea, I'd just like to say that I did it without
molesting the OEM wiring... the place where the wiring harness plugs into the
headlight is implemented as a plug with a bunch of blades and receptors. I just put the
right sized blade onto the end of my "any" wire, and put it into the receptor
where the blue wire goes, and it has been that way for years.



Jerry: I don't understand. Do you have my reservation?

Rental Car Agent: We have your reservation, we just ran out of cars.

Jerry: But the reservation keeps the car here. That's why you have the reservation.

Rental Car Agent: I think I know why we have reservations.

Jerry: I don't think you do. You see, you know how to *take* the reservation, you just don't know how to *hold* the reservation. And that's really the most important part of the reservation: the holding. Anybody can just take them.

-Mike

[MarkT]

Seth - if you use the "on with hi beam" plan - be sure to wire in a relay.  Honda already had a bad plan by not using a relay for the headlight, and running it's load thru 2 switches - the starter sw and the hi-lo sw. They changed that with the IS - added relays - but the std/tourer has the bad design. Tap off the blu/white wire (hi-beam) and use it to trigger a relay which powers your spots.  So you don't add even more load to an already overloaded series of sw contacts.  BTW - when those switches fail - and they will, if you haven't already reduced their load with relays - your spots will also fail with this plan.  IOW you have a single point of failure, the opposite of a redundant schematic.

It would be better to install relays to power your headlight, and also another relay to power your spots.  To protect the 2 Hondaline switches I mentioned.  On Deerslayer, I have done that, and with 2 pairs of spots, each pair is powered by it's own relay, and with a 3-pos sw that lets me select trigger for the spots: Off, On With Ignition, or On With Hi-Beam. The juice for that sw is the blue wire - input to the OEM Hi-Lo sw, which comes from the starter button and powers the lights off when the starter is cranking. Yes I have a single point of failure - but it's not likely with only relay trigger power going thru the OEM circuits (including the original headlight load)

[Valkorado]

Mark check email.