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cajundood
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« on: March 20, 2015, 08:50:45 AM » |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE  |
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Flint
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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2015, 12:34:09 PM » |
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Had mine apart many times not really a big deal just take off the four nuts on one end of the rods that go thru the carbs 2 on each side. Then separate the carbs carefully. I normally put some paper down and wright 1-6 on it and place the carbs on the numbers as I am disassembling them so they go back where they were. If you look at your carbs you will see small springs between the carbs, 4 of them. They are 2 different sizes , take note of where they go, when you pull the carbs apart they will fall out. After you reassemble the carbs you can put them back in. Just squeeze them and place them in there. Also take note of were your carb sync adjusting screw springs are, take a picture of them and make sure there back together right. The carbs have dowels in them and sometimes there hard to separate just be gentle with them. You can see the dowels in them in this pic.  |
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2006 VTX 1800C3
1999 blk/orange standard
1997 blk standard
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cajundood
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2015, 02:36:41 PM » |
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Had mine apart many times not really a big deal just take off the four nuts on one end of the rods that go thru the carbs 2 on each side. Then separate the carbs carefully. I normally put some paper down and wright 1-6 on it and place the carbs on the numbers as I am disassembling them so they go back where they were. If you look at your carbs you will see small springs between the carbs, 4 of them. They are 2 different sizes , take note of where they go, when you pull the carbs apart they will fall out. After you reassemble the carbs you can put them back in. Just squeeze them and place them in there. Also take note of were your carb sync adjusting screw springs are, take a picture of them and make sure there back together right. The carbs have dowels in them and sometimes there hard to separate just be gentle with them. You can see the dowels in them in this pic. CAREFUL....I WAS NOT  in trying to separate the #6 carb i punched a hole in the side of it.  now i'm either gotta try and repair it or buy another #6 carb..... this job is really starting to suk  |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE |
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pancho
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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2015, 05:06:06 PM » |
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Ughhh,, thats gotta hurt. Forget that one for now,,, continue to work on getting them apart using wood wedges,, like a set for setting doors and windows, soak the connection points with a break free lubricant as they build corrosion in that area, no more metal tools in there. After you have everything apart look into doing a repair on that carb body,, if nothing else, pushing and filing the area into shape and putting silicone on the outside,, probably last forever.
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« Last Edit: March 20, 2015, 05:08:57 PM by pancho »
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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bentwrench
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2015, 05:02:09 AM » |
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Any hole in a alum. part can be be repaired with JB weld.I would grind it down smooth and place some tape over the outside.Lay the carb down so the dammaged spot is level,fill it in with jb,let sit overnight.once it is set,smooth it out with a dremmel or sandpaper.Get it smooth,use two coats if you must because the diaphram may contact when it's running.I've fixed and modded lots of alum.parts with jb never had a failure.
BW
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Brian
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« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2015, 05:39:50 AM » |
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Redeye now has a carb separator tool included in his carb rebuild kit along with new dowels that are not made of steel. I may still have this tool or wedges and the instructions that I could send you if you still need it. Penetrating fluid is a must. I ended up using a punch inserted in the old dowel and vise grips to crush the dowel into the punch to wiggle and twist out the old dowels. The stupid flux brush that Redeye sent was useless to drift out the stuck dowels.
Let me know if you would like for me to see if I still have this tool and your address to mail it.
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Attic Rat
Member
Posts: 446
VRCC # 1962
Tulsa, OK
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« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2015, 07:39:58 AM » |
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I may have and extra # 6 carb I would have to ck
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
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cajundood
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« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2015, 08:09:58 AM » |
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Suspended the job yesterday after my screwup and had some alcohol for console.  I bought some high heat metal repair stuff thats supposed to be better than JB weld. Pinwall only had a full set of carbs for sale..  I have that redeye kit your talking about. Its got plastic dowels and a bent flux brush in it. Gonna use penetrating oil and the suggested wood shims to seperate them now....wish me luck  Attic rat.....I may be hitting you up for that #6 if you have it. We'll see how the repair goes...... |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE |
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cajundood
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« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2015, 09:13:50 AM » |
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well....patience and wood shims worked got the #6 separated. (notice the big-ass hole in the side) Gonna briefly try and separate the others but if they are stubborn like the #6 (which is the one that was leaking) i'll abandon the rest and simply put it all back together.  |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE |
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Pappy!
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« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2015, 02:07:01 PM » |
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Use the tool in the redeye kit! Pretty simple if you use it. Re-install the nylon bushings in place of the steel roll pins. I just did this job a few weeks ago using the tool. Was simple but I worked slow and careful even using the tool.
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pancho
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« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2015, 08:38:49 PM » |
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You'd really hate it if you just put it back together and developed a fuel rail leak in a different location.....
Be sure to clean up the area where the o-rings seat with a light bore brush or something similar.
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« Last Edit: March 21, 2015, 08:42:57 PM by pancho »
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Brian
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« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2015, 06:31:53 AM » |
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You'd really hate it if you just put it back together and developed a fuel rail leak in a different location.....
Be sure to clean up the area where the o-rings seat with a light bore brush or something similar.
I would hope he was replacing them all going this far into it. |
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cajundood
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2015, 01:52:03 PM » |
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I may have and extra # 6 carb I would have to ck
I"m in need of that #6 carb if you located it. |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2015, 05:20:43 PM » |
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well....patience and wood shims worked got the #6 separated. (notice the big-ass hole in the side) Gonna briefly try and separate the others but if they are stubborn like the #6 (which is the one that was leaking) i'll abandon the rest and simply put it all back together. I think a GOOD tig welder could fix that. It's in a good spot (if there is such a thing) |
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Windrider
Member
Posts: 137
2000 Valkyrie Tourer
SE NE
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« Reply #15 on: March 26, 2015, 09:27:06 PM » |
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If a #6 carb is unavailable and other repairs don't fix the hole --- consider Marine-Tex. You can get it at boat shops.
This stuff is supposed to be about 4x stronger than JB weld. I fixed the throttle drum on #3 with it and it's holding up fine after 1200 + mi. I'm in a cold part of the country, so little riding lately.
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« Last Edit: March 26, 2015, 09:29:43 PM by Windrider »
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Pappy!
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« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2015, 05:52:02 AM » |
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+1 on the Marine Tex.
I work in the marine industry still and use this stuff all the time. Looking at the hole and assuming you have the piece you knocked out it would be an easy fix with MT.
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cajundood
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« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2015, 07:53:09 PM » |
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well.....fixed the hole with some stuff by bluemagic called Quiksteel. I fixed the hole but the reason i was in search of a #6 is in trying to remove the stainless steel pins, one of them broke off. but a friend of mine remove the piece so i'm back in business. used the plastic shims upon reassembly.  Now.....whether or not to put that p.o.s. plastic air dam back in place. I'm no engineer but it looks to me that all that air dam does is limit air flow through the radiator by essentially blocking off the rear of the radiator. Any suggestions on this????? |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2015, 08:42:01 PM » |
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well.....fixed the hole with some stuff by bluemagic called Quiksteel. I fixed the hole but the reason i was in search of a #6 is in trying to remove the stainless steel pins, one of them broke off. but a friend of mine remove the piece so i'm back in business. used the plastic shims upon reassembly. Now.....whether or not to put that p.o.s. plastic air dam back in place. I'm no engineer but it looks to me that all that air dam does is limit air flow through the radiator by essentially blocking off the rear of the radiator. Any suggestions on this????? Yes, PUT IT BACK IN. |
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cajundood
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« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2015, 12:31:26 PM » |
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UPDATE.......... got the carbs back in, along with the airbox, and after an hour of bending and manipulating i forced the air dam back into place. Hooked up fuel tank and went to crank on it and it immediately binded up.  WTH removed the plugs, spun her over and gas shot out of 3 of the cylinders (stuck needles) This is the point where i knew this job was waay over my head. so i called my harley mechanic buddy and he did a little trick by blowing air into the fuel line to seat the needles. 2nd crankup: bike cranked and ran rough for awhile then finally smoothed out. All was fine except that it wouldnt idle down. we fiddled around with the throttle cables adjustments but nothing worked....even messed with the individual idle adjustments....(so now its alll out of sync ) turns out....upon reassembly of the carbs, i put some springs back in the wrong place. 3rd crankup: Now it only just cranks and cranks....wont start ....plus the tach and some of the lights quit working. (now ..wtf??) I replaced a fuse in the panel and it blows immediately. so now i've gone from an idle problem to an electrical issue. my only guess is that somehow by forcing the air dam back in, it somehow screwed up something in the harness and i'm now getting a dead short somewhere. so i guess i have to pull everything back down in order to locate the electrical short.  ain't life grand |
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LIFE's BETTER ON THE DARKSIDE |
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