Mobile 1 15W-50

[slythern12]

I bought some mobile 1 15w-50 oil the other day and then started looking at the bottle and it doesn't show that it is SF or SG. I haven't put it in yet but want to make sure I don't mess up.

[Kunkies]

Amsoil 20W-50

[BobB]

It's probably the oil that I started using last year.  It's labeled API SN meeting the requirements of SN, SM and SL.  I get it at Walmart.  You must insure that it does not have friction modifiers, nothing in the bottom half of the circle. 

[Brian]

I have been using it for years except this last oil change I switched over to Rotella fully synthetic. I truly believe the transmission noise is reduced. Mobil One almost $8 a quart here.

[indybobm]

Nothing wrong with Mobile 1 15w50. It is a good oil that many people use.

[salty1]

SF and SG designations are essentially obsolete. SL and SM oils exceed and replace the older designation oils. Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic is a great oil for your valk.

[pastmast95]

Napa auto parts is having a sale on Mobil 1 this month for $5.99 a bottle! They do about every 3 months. I pick up the 15-50 a couple times a year.

[Gideon]

Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil works great and you can't beat the price.   

[slythern12]

Thanks for all the input I know it was another stupid oil question. Also I got mine at walmart for $5.00 a quart.

[Blaze]

I have been using it for years except this last oil change I switched over to Rotella fully synthetic. I truly believe the transmission noise is reduced. Mobil One almost $8 a quart here.

Did you use Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40?

[Gideon]

[

I have been using it for years except this last oil change I switched over to Rotella fully synthetic. I truly believe the transmission noise is reduced. Mobil One almost $8 a quart here.

Did you use Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40?

Also I got mine at walmart for $5.00 a quart.
[/quote]

Yes - I have since hearing about it on this board. Shell Rotella-T6 Synthetic 5W-40 Oil is heavy-duty diesel oil. Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, it has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella-T6 means it does not interfere with wet clutch operations. 

[Bone]

I've logged 100K using Rotella-T6 Synthetic 5W-40 Oil in my 98 Tourer.

[R J]

I've logged 230K using Mobil 1 Oil in my 97 Tourer aka MGM.

I've logged over 70K on my 2010 Dodge Dakota Magnum V8 using Mobil 1.

Mom has logged around 20K on her Toyota Highlander using Mobil 1.

Daughter has logged over 70K in her 2010 KIA 4 banger with turbo.

I've logged over 200K on my Chevy Trike using Mobil 1.

All my John Deere tractors have had nothing but Mobil 1 in them since new.

I've also got about 50 cases of 5 qt jug, Mobil 1 in the store room at my son's shop.

Any oil changes he does, get Mobil 1 put in them.

[Hook#3287]

I've logged 100K using Rotella-T6 Synthetic 5W-40 Oil in my 98 Tourer.

How about standard gas motors in cars?  I'd like to find one oil to use in everything.  4 diesels, two gas vehicles, 4 bikes,  2 compressors, 4 generators, and a bunch more smaller engines in lawn equipment I can't even count.

[Gideon]

Should we move on to the best oil filter.

I use a Pure One PL14610.

Four qts. of oil can be used when you use a 3.5" long filter such as the Pure One PL14610 Oil Filter.
The anti-drainback valve is double the thickness of many of those that fit, and it seals very well.
The media is one of the best available, and there's a lot of it.
The bypass valve is made from a laser-cut piece of stainless steel, and just can't bind or jam.

[Bone]

Whats the PL ?

[salty1]

The PL is the high end filter that is more efficient at removing contamination.

[Gideon]

The PL is the high end filter that is more efficient at removing contamination.

It will say PureONE on packaging and be marked as "PL" plus number.
Google it.

[slythern12]

Well i did my oil change today with the Mobile 1 15/50, I think my baby likes it. Another question while I think the shifting is smoother I have had and do still have a slight problem sometimes going from 1st to 2nd seems to caught in neutral and then a hard shift to 2nd works good 90% of the time but sometimes it happens.

[R J]

Well i did my oil change today with the Mobile 1 15/50, I think my baby likes it. Another question while I think the shifting is smoother I have had and do still have a slight problem sometimes going from 1st to 2nd seems to caught in neutral and then a hard shift to 2nd works good 90% of the time but sometimes it happens.

If ya get lazy on the shift to 2nd gear it will sometimes catch on ya.

The Phat Gurl likes to be slammed into gear, any gear.

Mobil 1 will need more time also to work itself in.

[Hook#3287]

I've logged 100K using Rotella-T6 Synthetic 5W-40 Oil in my 98 Tourer.

How about standard gas motors in cars?  I'd like to find one oil to use in everything.  4 diesels, two gas vehicles, 4 bikes,  2 compressors, 4 generators, and a bunch more smaller engines in lawn equipment I can't even count.

I contacted Shell with this question and the answer is gasoline powered cars before 2000, which works for me.

[Jersey mike]

OK, so now i'm getting confused on this whole topic re: oil viscosity.

we all know Honda recommends 10w/40 but some people like the

15w/50 synth

5w/40 synth

10w/40 synth

I've been using 10w/40 regular oil and have never used a synth oil in any of my vehicles, but do change oil regularly in all my vehicles.

I've read articles that say if you start using synth oil you can't switch back to regular oil AND I've read that say you can switch back.

are you guys using heavier (50) weight oil because of where you live, hotter temps?  OR is it a personal preference for your riding style?  is it for better lube of the clutch and trans?

I know the "W" designation on oil is for cold (Winter...quicker flow) weather start up so I'm guessing a 5w or 10w is good for New Jersey since I don't really do much cold weather start ups.

[98valk]

Should we move on to the best oil filter.

I use a Pure One PL14610.

Four qts. of oil can be used when you use a 3.5" long filter such as the Pure One PL14610 Oil Filter.
The anti-drainback valve is double the thickness of many of those that fit, and it seals very well.
The media is one of the best available, and there's a lot of it.
The bypass valve is made from a laser-cut piece of stainless steel, and just can't bind or jam.

 I use the oversized pure-one PL14459.

[Kunkies]

I use a full synth' 20w-50 weight oil for two main reasons:
-More cushion, and
-I can get away with it because I live in the southeast

[Gryphon Rider]

I've read articles that say if you start using synth oil you can't switch back to regular oil AND I've read that say you can switch back.

If the manufacturer allows synthetic and regular oil, or doesn't specify one or the other, you can switch back and forth whenever you want, and even mix them if you have to (e.g. you need to add a litre but don't have the same stuff handy).

[slythern12]

Well i did my oil change today with the Mobile 1 15/50, I think my baby likes it. Another question while I think the shifting is smoother I have had and do still have a slight problem sometimes going from 1st to 2nd seems to caught in neutral and then a hard shift to 2nd works good 90% of the time but sometimes it happens.

If ya get lazy on the shift to 2nd gear it will sometimes catch on ya.

The Phat Gurl likes to be slammed into gear, any gear.

Mobil 1 will need more time also to work itself in.

Nothing like slamming the phat girl!!

[R J]

Well i did my oil change today with the Mobile 1 15/50, I think my baby likes it. Another question while I think the shifting is smoother I have had and do still have a slight problem sometimes going from 1st to 2nd seems to caught in neutral and then a hard shift to 2nd works good 90% of the time but sometimes it happens.

The Phat Gurl likes to be slammed into gear, any gear.

Mobil 1 will need more time also to work itself in.

Nothing like slamming the phat girl!!
 

[Woton]

Should we move on to the best oil filter.

I like the chromed version of the K&N product that fits the Valk.  KN-303C

Especially like the nut doohickey on the end that means I don't have to pull out that blasted oil filter strap wrench!

Oil?  Amsoil 10-40 Motorcycle. 

[98valk]

Should we move on to the best oil filter.

I like the chromed version of the K&N product that fits the Valk.  KN-303C

Especially like the nut doohickey on the end that means I don't have to pull out that blasted oil filter strap wrench!

Oil?  Amsoil 10-40 Motorcycle. 

check out the amsoil 10w40 auto oil. basically same thing at a lower cost, label says its for m/c also. only thing the m/c oil is good for is if the bike will sit for months at a time due to the higher levels of anti-corrosion additives, which all of their oils have anyway. I used to be a dealer I know the history.

[Woton]

Pardons for hijacking the thread here... 

The local NAPA store (or someone in there) is my Amsoil supplier.  They told me this very thing at my last purchase.  But, they had the auto brand in stock and had to special order the motorcycle oil.  I'm afraid I doubted their word a bit given that.   

While I tend not to pinch pennies on the Valk there would be some respectable savings per oil change here.  Thanks, CA.

[98valk]

Pardons for hijacking the thread here... 

The local NAPA store (or someone in there) is my Amsoil supplier.  They told me this very thing at my last purchase.  But, they had the auto brand in stock and had to special order the motorcycle oil.  I'm afraid I doubted their word a bit given that.   

While I tend not to pinch pennies on the Valk there would be some respectable savings per oil change here.  Thanks, CA.

quick history, at first all they had was the 10w40 and 20w50 oils label always stated for m/c also. then one day they decided to put the same oil in m/c labeled specific bottles, sales took off like a rocket. and like I mentioned they have tweaked the formula a little.
as a side note most oils out there are synthetic or a blend today. just look at specs. any diesel oil is better than most oils. they have too be to handle a exhaust hot turbo bearing spinning at 10k rpms or more and the higher shear the oil sees due to the long piston stroke. M/Cs with their short strokes will never hurt the oil.
I've done oil analysis, using syn oil, 10k oil changes are no problem with a filter change and top off at 5k miles.
 

[Woton]

More great, money saving info! 

In typical tooling around I STILL have always tried to change the Amsoil/Filter every 5K miles.  But, knowing it was Amsoil I haven't worried if a ongoing trip pushed me past this limit even quite a bit.

I know some do it, but I've never had an oil change performed on our bikes mid-trip.  It is either done before, or immediately after.  Guess I'm saying I'm trusting the Amsoil and the Yamalube Synthetic in the wife's Stratoliner.

And, I have never changed a oil filter on ANY vehicle w/o doing the oil as well - that one I'll have to think about.  I DO realize you're saying the 10K is with a filter change mid-way...

Thanks again.

[Stormchase]

Great info here.
 I have used Castrol GTX for years. It seems that it has fallen a bit behind nowadays. I have known some yacht guroos that run twin diesels on their $100-$200k machines. They will drive a state away to get Rotella marine for the boats. I might go that route myself. 

[98valk]

posted this a few days ago

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,76667.0.html

http://www.nanomech.com/products-services/nglide/

http://www.nanowerk.com/news2/newsid=25882.php

http://biosynthetic.com/passenger-car-motor-oil
notice how they use a bullet proof chevy v-6 for their testing...


http://www.ozarklubes.com/E2M.aspx   uses nglide


latest popular Diesel oil specs.   (I prefer Delo due to the high Boron levels, moly used to be higher also but now is under 100ppm like Rotella T6)
why Boron?
 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729116

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%20HDEO%202015.html

2013 specs including Supertech which is a very good oil

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/HDEO%20SUMMARY.html


walmart has roll-backs on Delo and Rotella right now

[Woton]

If the manufacturer allows synthetic and regular oil, or doesn't specify one or the other, you can switch back and forth whenever you want, and even mix them if you have to (e.g. you need to add a litre but don't have the same stuff handy).

Educate me a bit here, please.  What would there be about an engine, bike or car, that either would or would not allow what you're describing here?  Is it just a warranty thing, or is there more to it??

[Gryphon Rider]

If the manufacturer allows synthetic and regular oil, or doesn't specify one or the other, you can switch back and forth whenever you want, and even mix them if you have to (e.g. you need to add a litre but don't have the same stuff handy).

Educate me a bit here, please.  What would there be about an engine, bike or car, that either would or would not allow what you're describing here?  Is it just a warranty thing, or is there more to it??

I have heard of manufacturers specifying synthetic only for very tight tolerance and/or turbocharged engines, where the oil either has to flow especially well when cold, or be able to withstand very high localized temperatures.  I'd have to do some googling to give examples, but I know I've read about this.  Maybe certain Corvette engines?

[Tundra]

  I have run full synthetic for 9 years in my Valkyrie. I switched from Amsoil to Mobil-1, 15w50 several years back due to the price of Amsoil. I like it, but really? what's to like? it's oil, it works.
I have never heard of any oil related problems with a Valkyrie, just lot's of opinions on which oil to use.

[98valk]

If the manufacturer allows synthetic and regular oil, or doesn't specify one or the other, you can switch back and forth whenever you want, and even mix them if you have to (e.g. you need to add a litre but don't have the same stuff handy).

Educate me a bit here, please.  What would there be about an engine, bike or car, that either would or would not allow what you're describing here?  Is it just a warranty thing, or is there more to it??

with todays engines there are no problems switching back and forth. pretty much all oils today are some type of semi-synthetic oil. they have to be to meet latest specs.

olders style engines due to machining practices required regular dino oil for correct breakin of rings. this is not true anymore unless a local/home rebuild is done.
search the court case of castrol vs mobil 1 about what is synthetic today, basically all oils are. this why I state any diesel oil is the best out there at a reasonable cost.
a 15w40 or 5w40 will be better than the 20w40 yamalube although some analysis shows it to be a good oil, but yami has it made for them by somebody and then yami sticks a huge markup on it, for your strat. my friend has a strat and I've been giving him the same info.

well worth the read oil 101
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

[DK]

The Ferrrari article is great but their engines need really good oil much more than mass produced engines. They run like hell but I never saw anyone run one hard for many miles without paying for it thru the nose.  They are like helicopters: two hours maintenance for each hour on the road. The factory supported race cars are a wole mother matter.

My experience with various viscosities of Mobil 1 is >400,000. with two LandCruisers, > 150,000 on several 911's, & 928's & 914's, an X-5 & a Cayenne & 350,000 on a Honda Accord all with no problems & all with excellent engines when I sold them. 

I'm sure Mobil 1 is not the best, but it seems good enough for me. I drive vehicles hard & raced the sports cars. The oil was always changed at 6,000 miles.

I became sold on Mobile One many years ago at the Hallett Oklahoma Racetrack when this guy in a 930 Porsche who had been reprogramming a chip all weekend threw a piston while leading the race right after taking the white flag. After he dumped 14 quarts of M1, he continued the lap for a mile and a half & won the race.

Overnight, he helicoiled on a new jug, installed a new rod & piston & valves and was back on the track the next morning not blowing any blue smoke.

For me, the M1 works well enough for me.

Dan

[vicnelson]

My 2 cents. I have used mobil 1 since the late 70's in all my vehicles. There was only one vehicle that it did not work well in and that was a 280z that would leak it. I used it in a new KLR650 after its first oil change over the objections of the mechanic at the dealership. I was having heat problems with this water cooled one lunger and wanted to switch to the M1. He gave me a lot of s### about it not being up to specs and I challenged him to show me where it did not meet the specs and he backed of but threatened that I should not bring the bike in if something went wrong. This occurred in Phoenix, during the summer of 1990. It was HOT. I changed to M1 and I had no more heat problems with that bike.

I do want to ask, when you speak of M1 are you speaking of the MC special brand of M1 or the basic car version. My latest Valk has the special MC M1 in it and I am about 5km into the oil change and I have two issues. As the miles accumulate, I have trouble finding neutral and I have to slam the phat gurl once and a while. This has just begun to occur and I am not sure if it has to do with the miles on the oil or what. MC specific M1 is almost double the cost of regular M1.