zzed28
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« on: April 07, 2015, 08:14:02 AM » |
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Hopefully someone can assist me with info on desmog of 99 Valk. I have read lots of info on different lists, as well as here. It appears, that the pair valves are actually powered, by vaccum pulses from cyls 3 and 4, and that there are no other cyls involved in the powering of the valves that pull air from the air cleaner, and push it into the exhaust ports , and this is under deceleration only, and only when the bike is cold. Is this it, or do I have something wrong here.
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zzed28
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« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2015, 08:19:07 AM » |
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I also believe, that there are a number of different ways to do the desmog, different kits etc. What is the simplest possible way to do this, I would like to just leave everything possible in place that is there, although, I dont generally like clutter, but am not keen on having to deal with that air box base. Is there a way to effectively do this without moving the airbox base? Keep in mind, that I think the only thing, that I am trying to accomplish here, is to eliminate vac lines, and their potential failure from leaking, to eliminate future vac leaks on my bike. It appears, that the valve becomes unused, and basically benign, just sitting there, if the vac lines from numbers 3 and 4 are blocked. Are there any negative affects, from doing this, I am not expectiing performance increases at all, just simplicity in the future and not having vac leaks from failed lines. Thanks
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« Last Edit: April 07, 2015, 08:23:29 AM by zzed28 »
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salty1
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Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2015, 09:59:37 AM » |
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You might want to look at the Valkyrie Desmog Refit Kit that redeye has for sale. It is definitely easier to remove the tank and airfiter box to desmog. https://sites.google.com/site/valkparts/
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
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Bambam650
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« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2015, 12:39:07 PM » |
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I did the full desmog on my '97 standard a couple of years ago. Yes, it was a real PITA but I'm glad I have that behind me. My bike ran so much better after that and eliminated all of the popping on decel. Plus I ended up losing a whole bag full of unwanted parts. So while it's a royal pain, I would recommend that you follow through and do the complete desmog, which means removing the entire airbox. Actually, the only thing that gave me a real fit as I recall was removing the one nearly impossible to get to bolts on one of the check valve manifolds.
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« Last Edit: April 07, 2015, 01:33:01 PM by Bambam650 »
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1997 Standard (Black) original owner, bought new in August 1996
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zzed28
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« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2015, 01:22:36 PM » |
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Like I said, the only thing that matters to me is that, I minimize the vac hoses that can go bad in time. If anyone can weigh in on my original posts info, it would be appreciated. Is there a true downside to only removing the vac lines from 3 and 4, I already have the redeye desmog kit. I have stock exhaust, with no popping now at all.
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da prez
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« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2015, 02:38:34 PM » |
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I believe it was John Schmitt That gave a short cut way. Pull and plug the vacuum lines , cut off the air tubes and fill with J B weld and there was another block off. You can somewhat follow the de smog nfo in the tech section.
da prez
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Brian
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« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2015, 06:51:07 PM » |
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I left all the chrome tubes in place at first just using JB Weld to seal them off. You can also use a short piece of rubber tubing with clamps and plugs you want. The JB Weld has not been a problem after three years.
As for the air box connection I just used two fender washers a nut and bolt and some silicone. No problem here either. Cheap desmog as far as I am concerned.
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Dogster
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Posts: 15
My #1
North Jersey
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« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2015, 11:24:34 AM » |
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I have everything I need to do the de-smog. Just wondering if any sealant is needed on freeze-out plugs when using, or does the crimping action of the plug make a true seal?
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