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Author Topic: Anybody got a pic of a valkyrie ujoint that has the cap off?  (Read 903 times)
F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« on: May 18, 2015, 06:04:50 PM »

How hard would it be to put in a drill press and drill a hole in each cap and tap to put a zerk in? Once greased, unscrew zerk and screw in a plug.
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2015, 06:20:01 PM »

Wouldn't it require one drilled into each cap, and after greasing, why remove? With 4 it should be balanced, and even with one in the corner of a universal there is no thought of being out of balance.
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F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2015, 07:48:45 PM »

I dont think the ujoint is cross drilled. If you leave the zerks on, they may stick out too far.
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KG
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Munford Tennessee


« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2015, 07:59:34 PM »

If the cross is hollow you could just drill into the center of the cross and install a zerk fitting just like the do on automotive applications
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F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2015, 08:15:56 PM »

I have no idea if the ujoint is hollow......???  If I had a ujoint with the cap off, I could see if it was hollow.
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Redline +
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Northwest Washington


« Reply #5 on: May 18, 2015, 10:15:45 PM »

Most u-joints are hardened, making drilling and tapping a challenge.

Redline Cool
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Magellon
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Santa Rosa, CA


« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2015, 10:54:53 PM »

Will this work? If you can see it in the picture the center is NOT hollow.



I thought the bearings on this end cap would be toast when I pulled it apart but they looked ok, this is the cap that was spinning inside of the yoke, original u-joint with 32k on it. It had a clicking sound I heard just pushing the bike back and forth in my garage. New u-joint installed, no more clicking sound.

Hope this helps.
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F6BANGER
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Albuquerque NM


« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2015, 04:39:06 PM »

Will this work? If you can see it in the picture the center is NOT hollow.



I thought the bearings on this end cap would be toast when I pulled it apart but they looked ok, this is the cap that was spinning inside of the yoke, original u-joint with 32k on it. It had a clicking sound I heard just pushing the bike back and forth in my garage. New u-joint installed, no more clicking sound.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Magellon,
From the pic, it looks like the indention in the T is about 1/4" to 3/8". If the caps are drillable and tapable, there may be enough room for a zerk. Grease would reflect off the indention, fill the cap and ooze out the seal. Only problem I see is the fact that there probably will get metal filing in the cap. You could use solvent to wash it out really good, maybe use a little teeny tiny magnet, and then grease the snot out of it. HMMMMMM
« Last Edit: May 20, 2015, 05:47:14 AM by F6BANGER » Logged
old grouch
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If it aint broke, don't fix it!

Colorado Springs, CO


« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2015, 05:41:45 AM »

FWIW I had a modified yoke on my I/S trike.  The joint used was the part used in the  "my rebuildable u-joint  linked at the top of the page.  The grease zerk was in the cap & it rubbed on something.  Had to replace it with a plug & replace the zerk when greasing.  The swingarm on the trike was different than stock, so this might or might not be an issue.  Stan
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da prez
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. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2015, 06:02:43 AM »

 Most U-joints are not able to be drilled with home tools. A sealed U-joint will not have a drilled cross. Another option for a grease zerk in a grease able U-joint is a needle fitting. It has a small ball bearing opening that is nearly flush mounted. It is greased with a needle like attachment on a grease gun.

                                    da prez
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