Tires...Radial or Bias?

[GPz1100]

like the title says, which are better on the Valk? i'm looking at a set of Dunlop Elite 3's for around $410. are there others i should consider?

[Bighead]

Personally I don't like E3's ( but to each his own) usually run Avons but have a Bias Dunlop AMERICAN Elite on now, so we will see what that tire gives in mileage.

[old2soon]

Last year I put on a Shinko S E 890 on the front and a DS rear-both in radial-for LESS than $200.00.  This year I got a deal on a Austone taxi tire and a Shinko 777 and I'm at $249.00 this year. Myself personally-if the E-3s were given to me I would not mount them on MY motorcycle! First rain I hit with those E-3s scared the kaka outa me!  But again-to each his own!. Have a look at Rocky Mountain A T V. Ron Ayers are good to deal with. Find your prices and see if your dealer will price match and try not to make it back on the dismount/mount. Last 2 Shinkos I've run I've gotten 13000+ on one and 14500+ on the other on m I/S. RIDE SAFE.

[sandy]

If you have a GPZ1100 you probably appreciate handling. Go with Avon Cobras. The valk was designed for radials and IMHO should use them.

[Kunkies]

I've had Dunlop Elite III's, Metzler ME880's, and Avon Cobra's on my Valk'.

Avon's hands down are the best tire, I highly recommend.

[Farther]

I've had the same three brands on my bike too and currently have the Avons.  I think I prefer the ride and handling of the Metzlers the best.  Maybe an Avon on the rear for wear and Metzler on the front for handling will be my next setup. 

[salty1]

I've had Dunlop Elite III's, Metzler ME880's, and Avon Cobra's on my Valk'.

Avon's hands down are the best tire, I highly recommend.

Kunkies has it right in my opinion. Cobras have been the best for me. Jake Wilson will have a set of them for around $300.
Radials!
https://www.jakewilson.com/

[Challenger]

There is nothing special about the Valk suspension or design that requires radial tires other than the fact that 180/70R/16 is only available in radial. I agree with the Metz on the front as being the best handling tires I have had and now have a Metz bias up front. Currently have a commander II bias on the rear of my Std and love it. Handling and ride are both enhanced. No more radials for me thanks.   YMMV 

[Jess from VA]

Challenger, although I am a darksider, I would be very interested to learn how that rear bias Commander II 180 works out for you (total miles, etc).  Interesting to note that of all the Commander II sizes available, only a couple are steel belts (including the closest front) (it works and grips about as well as any good front on the Valk, but won't make 7500 miles on my supervalk). 

[Challenger]

"Jess" Darksider on my I/S as well with Metz Bias on front. On the Std, I only have about 3500 miles on the Commander II on the rear and Metz Bias on front. No sign of wear what so ever yet. My Cobras would have been showing cupping by now. The best advantage so far is that with 38 PSI the ride is much better than 44 in the radials and the handling is crisper.  Will report back on the longevity.

[GPz1100]

so i'm guessing the same rule applies to darkside...radial or bias but don't mix the two?

[Jess from VA]

Most darkside are radials, and people are running bias and radial fronts all the time.

[Farther]

I don't think it matters.  I think the old rule used to be same type on both ends of the axle for cars.  I don't know why you would want to go bias on DS rear.  Not so sure on going bias on any vehicle.

[98valk]

so i'm guessing the same rule applies to darkside...radial or bias but don't mix the two?

never use a radial on front and bias on back. been addressed before.

[Fla. Jim]

Over the yr's I have run both and sometimes both together for many miles. Radial on front with a bias rear and the reverse. Could not tell the difference in handling. Never had a problem that was not of my own doing, like not checking the air pressure.  But then everyone does have their own opinion and experience.

[cookiedough]

I'm with challenger and old2soon on this, I hope.

I too just bought for only 125 a new rear Shinko SE890 Journey and hope it lasts 10K like my now defunct Avon Cobra has.  I wasn't impressed with the rear Avon Cobra to be honest, but was o.k. and 2nd cheapest radial I found out there tad over 150 bucks.  Was expecting more mileage than 10K though more like 12-13K tops before puncture wounds with still some slight center rear tread left. 

If this shinko doesn't work out or doesn't last at least 9K miles,  I will try the bias ply rear commander II and give that a shot.  maybe even the bridgestone exedra or pirelli's? 

The METZ and ELITE III's are the highest priced tires out there and although no experience,  heard they don't last much, if any, longer than the cheaper bias/radial tires.  Most say the METZ grip well and offer good ride, but don't last any longer than any other tire while the Dunlop Elite III's are noisier but tend to last just a tad longer and handling/grip so-so at best. 

If I knew for certain the metz or dunlop elite III would last rear tire 15K, I would purchase, but doubt neither will last that long over any other tire mfg., so why spend another say 150 bucks per set if not much more longevity?  A set of shinko se890's are 235 bucks for both while metz and dunlop are pushing 400.

It's a tough call, but I wouldn't be scared to try a bias ply tire over a radial if the price was right and lasted just as long.  Michelin usually makes good, longer wearing car tires, so can see the bias play commander II being good as well. 

[old man]

Never had to change tires yet, I'm assuming you need to go to a bike shop.  Is that correct?

[Jess from VA]

while the Dunlop Elite III's are noisier but tend to last just a tad longer

They are regularly reported to last much longer than any other tire (but a car tire).  Guys talk about 15-20K.  I have no personal experience with them, but if you seek longevity in a bike tire, this is it.

[davit]

A bit off topic but I'm fanatically in the Michelin Commander II (bias) camp after running one on the rear of a gl1200 Goldwing three months and 3500 miles this spring.  It was quiet, stuck like glue both dry and wet and showed little signs of wear.  A Commander II will be replacing the Bridgestone radial on the rear of my I/S soon.

Here's a pic of a Shinko 230 Tourmaster at 4500 miles:




And one of a Michelin Commander II at 3500 miles:

[cookiedough]

while the Dunlop Elite III's are noisier but tend to last just a tad longer

They are regularly reported to last much longer than any other tire (but a car tire).  Guys talk about 15-20K.  I have no personal experience with them, but if you seek longevity in a bike tire, this is it.

Yes, in general,  the dunlop elite III should last longer than the other radials, but I am not speaking from any experience, just others comments.  Sorry for the 'tad' vs. 'much' mistake.  I doubt I would receiver 20K out of any rear cycle tire, but could see I would hope 15K vs. my 10K out of the dunlop's vs. my avon cobra's, or so I would hope for the extra 70 bucks or so (1/3rd more cost)  I sure hope it would last 'much' longer. 

I'd have no issues trying a bias ply tire next time around though.  I'll keep switching until I find a mfg. I prefer or like better.  I suggest doing the same since everyone has their opinions.

Man, I need and will get that rear avon cobra off ASAP this week.  I started it up and rode it slowly around town and the flat spot at 10K is more pronounced more than I thought while the outside grooves that are bulging outward slightly on the sides you can not only feel bumping going slowly on the city roads, but also hear it just a tad with no radio playing and no helmet on.   I just wanted to start the cycle since has been sitting for 3 weeks not ridden at all since I noticed it leaking air this spring in early April since I wanted to make sure it would start before Thursday when get tire replaced.   

[cookiedough]

Never had to change tires yet, I'm assuming you need to go to a bike shop.  Is that correct?

If you don't have a lift and don't feel like spending money on a lift,  I guess you will have to unless you find someone who owns a cycle with a lift.  You still will have to get the tire balanced  (unless use dynabeads) and mounted on rim at a cycle tire shop more than likely.  It can be done by yourself, but for the little cost if take wheel off yourself, I'd let someone do it for me for 35-40 bucks.  I found 2 cycle shops who will do it all and take my rear tire off one for 85, the other 105 bucks, entirely and put on their lift, etc.  The extra 50-60 bucks is not that big of deal to me since don't go thru rear tires every 2 years, more like every 3-4 years.   If you go to some Honda cycle dealers though, be prepared to spend 180 bucks per rear tire doing it all for you like I found out, no thanks.  Shop around for best prices on tire changes, can vary up to say 100 bucks per tire.