I think we did it!

[Chrisj CMA]

Turned a hydrolock bike into a non-hydrolock bike.  

My friend got a good deal on a 2000 tourer with 14K miles on it.  However, the first week he had it he hit the starter and heard the tell tale "clunck"  Good thing I had already warned him about the possibility, no gear box damage.

We tore the carbs out and got rid of the OE petcock.  Installed a manual Pingel and put all new floats in the carbs, plus a new needle valve in the offending carburetor.  Just got back from his house, took about 3 hours to put her all back together and it fired up great, no leaks and doesn't seem to be trying to lock.  We shall see as the next days goes by he is going to leave the gas on a couple minutes and have the #4 spark plug out and test to see if any gas is dripping .  I don't think it will.

When we first opened #4 you could push the float all the way down (which is really all the way up) and you could feel it "come off" the needle valve and be under NO SPRING TENSION...that tells me that as gas filled up the float just floated up, left the needle valve so there was no pressure on the pin and no reason for the gas to stop.

All was better with the new parts, you could press the float all the way and as soon as you release it it springs back so you know it was always on spring tension with the needle valve.

Interesting to actually FEEL the cause (one of them) of the hydrolock.

Also, when we took the tank off, petcock in "off" position, gas was dripping from the petcock steady drip, not pouring but definitely not good...(the other cause).  That thing is gone now!

I think he is good

[GPz1100]

cool beans!

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Nice to catch it before you need to replace gears 

[westnek]

Turned a hydrolock bike into a non-hydrolock bike.  

My friend got a good deal on a 2000 tourer with 14K miles on it.  However, the first week he had it he hit the starter and heard the tell tale "clunck"  Good thing I had already warned him about the possibility, no gear box damage.

We tore the carbs out and got rid of the OE petcock.  Installed a manual Pingel and put all new floats in the carbs, plus a new needle valve in the offending carburetor.  Just got back from his house, took about 3 hours to put her all back together and it fired up great, no leaks and doesn't seem to be trying to lock.  We shall see as the next days goes by he is going to leave the gas on a couple minutes and have the #4 spark plug out and test to see if any gas is dripping .  I don't think it will.

When we first opened #4 you could push the float all the way down (which is really all the way up) and you could feel it "come off" the needle valve and be under NO SPRING TENSION...that tells me that as gas filled up the float just floated up, left the needle valve so there was no pressure on the pin and no reason for the gas to stop.

All was better with the new parts, you could press the float all the way and as soon as you release it it springs back so you know it was always on spring tension with the needle valve.

Interesting to actually FEEL the cause (one of them) of the hydrolock.

Also, when we took the tank off, petcock in "off" position, gas was dripping from the petcock steady drip, not pouring but definitely not good...(the other cause).  That thing is gone now!

I think he is good

CHRIS  can I ask you how the pingel hooks up ? if it can be operated on/off with the original switch on bike left side. I allways turn my  OE pet rooster  off since reading about hydro lock,, but don't trust  the  OE on it now ==would be happy with a simple shut off  if I though I can reach it to close it easy
  thank you chris    west

[Bighead]

West I am not Chris but you just take your peck clock out and put the pingle in its place. But may I ask way The OE scares you? If it is not leaking it is fine. Also it takes more than just the petcock leaking to Hydrolock.

[Chrisj CMA]

CHRIS  can I ask you how the pingel hooks up ? if it can be operated on/off with the original switch on bike left side. I allways turn my  OE pet rooster  off since reading about hydro lock,, but don't trust  the  OE on it now ==would be happy with a simple shut off  if I though I can reach it to close it easy
  thank you chris    west

The complete petcock and on, off, res switch goes away.  The Pingel threads right up like the OEM, in its place after removal.  (must insure the plastic OEM fuel filter comes out.

You have to reach in under the tank to operate the lever to turn it on, off and to reserve.  Its not hard once you get used to it

[Chrisj CMA]

West I am not Chris but you just take your peck clock out and put the pingle in its place. But may I ask way The OE scares you? If it is not leaking it is fine. Also it takes more than just the petcock leaking to Hydrolock.

I don't blame anyone for being distrustful of that OEM POS.  even if it doesn't hydrolock the motor it can and has and WILL someday cause you to be stranded on the side of the road.  If I had a brand new Valkyrie out of the box, Id remove that thing and sell it to someone that still likes them and put a Pingel on.

[westnek]

CHRIS  can I ask you how the pingel hooks up ? if it can be operated on/off with the original switch on bike left side. I allways turn my  OE pet rooster  off since reading about hydro lock,, but don't trust  the  OE on it now ==would be happy with a simple shut off  if I though I can reach it to close it easy
  thank you chris    west

The complete petcock and on, off, res switch goes away.  The Pingel threads right up like the OEM, in its place after removal.  (must insure the plastic OEM fuel filter comes out.

You have to reach in under the tank to operate the lever to turn it on, off and to reserve.  Its not hard once you get used to it

  sorry chris my brain is frozen from past winter but ?? what filter come out as ive never had OE pet rooster apart   thanks again for the help west

[westnek]

West I am not Chris but you just take your peck clock out and put the pingle in its place. But may I ask way The OE scares you? If it is not leaking it is fine. Also it takes more than just the petcock leaking to Hydrolock.

  thanks bighead but im not sure if the OE pet rooster scares me as much as the info ive heard --just want to be safe . what I did after winter sitting I took spark plugs out put a electrical wire in cylinder head plug holes to see if any dampness or smell of fuel was in the cylinders before starting ,,was all ok -not sure if anyone dos that with a wire.. thanks for the input  west

[Chrisj CMA]

CHRIS  can I ask you how the pingel hooks up ? if it can be operated on/off with the original switch on bike left side. I allways turn my  OE pet rooster  off since reading about hydro lock,, but don't trust  the  OE on it now ==would be happy with a simple shut off  if I though I can reach it to close it easy
  thank you chris    west

The complete petcock and on, off, res switch goes away.  The Pingel threads right up like the OEM, in its place after removal.  (must insure the plastic OEM fuel filter comes out.

You have to reach in under the tank to operate the lever to turn it on, off and to reserve.  Its not hard once you get used to it

  sorry chris my brain is frozen from past winter but ?? what filter come out as ive never had OE pet rooster apart   thanks again for the help west


[/quote
There is a plastic fuel filter slipped over the tube and hat extends into the tank.  It almost always stays in the tank when extracting the OEM petcock. Hope that helps

[gordonv]

Thanks for the diagnostic on the floats. We are getting some good data of what the problem of the carb is on a hydro lock.

[BchBum]

Good job.  My fuel line rails were leaking so while I have the carbs off, figured I was just clean them up.  Bike sat for 18 months with gas in carbs, did not drain them and the throttle would not even work,  They were laquared up pretty bad so ordered gaskets from rich byrne at http://redeye.ecrater.com/filter.php at a great price but need to replace one of my float valves.  Actually found them at jets R Us and for the price and piece of mind I will probably replace all of them.  Where did you buy your float valve?

They have two shown on their web site with part numbers    021-862K or 18-8955 with two different prices.

Here is the link, bottom of page.  They have pics but it is hard to tell which one I need.

https://jetsrus.com/needle_valve_float_bowl_gasket/needle_valve_and_float_bowl_gasket_honda_street.html

I have the carbs apart and cleaned just waiting for parts to arrive to re-assemble and get this fat lady back on the road again. Putting in the new gaskets on the fuel rail lines today.

[BonS]

you can get a whole set of K&L needles for about $22 with free shipping. I'd replace them all.

http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Float-Needle-6pk-18-8955/dp/B001KOD732/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432646217&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=K%26L+valve+NEEDLE+VALKYRIE

[Bagger John - #3785]

What's the commonality with a hydrolock - perhaps leaving a bike sit for an extended period of time then returning it to service? Or has this been happening with daily drivers?

Since 2000 I've owned 5 Valkyries - 2 new; 3 used - and have had to rebuild precisely ONE petcock in all that time due to a leaky diaphragm. The two most recent arrivals (and the only remaining Valkyries) got theirs rebuilt "just because" (I had the tanks off for other service work) but all the internals looked good.

Likewise with the carbs; never have had to replace needle valves, seats or floats due to either age or to mileage. The only time mine are idle are from November until the last of the salt is washed away in spring - and when the bikes are put away, they're properly winterized.

It would be nice to get some data points here.

[Chrisj CMA]

What's the commonality with a hydrolock - perhaps leaving a bike sit for an extended period of time then returning it to service? Or has this been happening with daily drivers?

Since 2000 I've owned 5 Valkyries - 2 new; 3 used - and have had to rebuild precisely ONE petcock in all that time due to a leaky diaphragm. The two most recent arrivals (and the only remaining Valkyries) got theirs rebuilt "just because" (I had the tanks off for other service work) but all the internals looked good.

Likewise with the carbs; never have had to replace needle valves, seats or floats due to either age or to mileage. The only time mine are idle are from November until the last of the salt is washed away in spring - and when the bikes are put away, they're properly winterized.

It would be nice to get some data points here.

I feel letting a Valkyrie sit is a common culpret when it comes to a hydrolock.  I believe its the plastic floats deforming over time due to soaking in deteriorating gas that is at the crux of the matter.

[BchBum]

BonS - Thank you, I will have them this Thursday when My other stuff arrives.  Total price including two day shipping $38.  Much less than $5-9 per plus shipping.  And yes, I am replacing them all, 1999 tourer, 62K. Never had a problem until I put it up for 2 years, shut fuel off the carbs and DID NOT drain bowls. Also did not use sea foam, just a bottle of fuel additive for moisture. My Bad! Can't wait to hear her purrrr again.  I need some wind in my hair, errr face, lost a bunch not riding. Stress!

[Bagger John - #3785]

I feel letting a Valkyrie sit is a common culpret when it comes to a hydrolock.  I believe its the plastic floats deforming over time due to soaking in deteriorating gas that is at the crux of the matter.

Might explain why I've not yet had an issue. When the bikes go up for the year, their bowls are drained - and the drain screws left open until each is put back on the road for the season.

There are four bikes in my garage at present, and though I may not get to ride the Valkyries every day due to crappy weather it's a rare occurrence that they're not ridden at least once every couple weeks.

Will be interesting to see what other's experiences are. FWIW, a tank cleaning/petcock and carb rebuild is Priority One with any bike I've owned which has been left unattended for more than a season without proper storage prep.

[westnek]

I feel letting a Valkyrie sit is a common culpret when it comes to a hydrolock.  I believe its the plastic floats deforming over time due to soaking in deteriorating gas that is at the crux of the matter.

Might explain why I've not yet had an issue. When the bikes go up for the year, their bowls are drained - and the drain screws left open until each is put back on the road for the season.

There are four bikes in my garage at present, and though I may not get to ride the Valkyries every day due to crappy weather it's a rare occurrence that they're not ridden at least once every couple weeks.



Will be interesting to see what other's experiences are. FWIW, a tank cleaning/petcock and carb rebuild is Priority One with any bike I've owned which has been left unattended for more than a season without proper storage prep.

hi bagger J   west here I don't drain bowls but from what I have read maybe its best I do..i use sea foam and start bike a few times over winter [Canada ay] ,,had no issues so far 124000 kilos 98 std
 your opinion is appreciated thank you  west