Changed my Headlights and.....

[HayHauler]

I went through the whole faring cleaning and replacing parts that were either stuck or broken.  The stuck parts were some of the screws that attach to the brass "sockets" and the broken parts were some of the plastic dash pieces.  

I replaced the headlight using these instructions that can be found in the VRCC Shop Talk website.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/interstateheadlight.htm  Even with my big meat hooks, the replacement was pretty easy.  The easiest thing I did all day.

I had 3 of the little brass threaded sockets that had spun in the plastic and had to be replaced and glued into place (JB Weld).  I even had one in the chrome trim piece that covers the windshield bolts that stripped.  I had to use my Dremmel tool and but a slot in it to get it out, because the phillips head was stripped.

While I was in there, I replaced the windshield (original 1999) with a short, black, windshield for summer riding.  I know, a little late, but there is still a month of riding in the heat here in Houston.  Anyway, now that I have gone through the whole faring, it will be MUCH easier to take apart and replace the windshield for a good clear or slightly smoked normal height shield.

I don't know when it happened, but I found that my meter panel had some cracks one the left side and the right side had a chunk missing where the speaker panel attaches.  I got the part (5 in the pic) with the plastic bezel, the indicator surround, and the rubber water shield from Ron Ayers.  It was about $40 with shipping included.


On my trip to Inzane, I noticed that the dash lights behind the speedo are out and I can only see my speed if I am going over 100 mph...    I have ordered those and will replace all dash lights when they come in.  

All things considered, it was pretty easy, just had to take my time and let the JB Weld set up all day before I put things back together.  I put antisieze on all of the bolts/screws that thread, none on the self tappers, to make it a breeze to take apart when my new windshield comes in.

I will take some pics of the bike with the new windshield and the Meter Panel (damage) and post them in a while.

Thanks for listening.

Hay  
Jimmyt

[cutter]

Would like to see a picture of that windshield, got one?

[HayHauler]

Why SHORE!!!





I think I like it!  Wife says she needs some goggles, but I will change it out for winter riding.  This is a Clearview short black shield.

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Rocketman]

I replaced the headlight using these instructions that can be found in the VRCC Shop Talk website.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/interstateheadlight.htm  Even with my big meat hooks, the replacement was pretty easy.  The easiest thing I did all day.

I had 3 of the little brass threaded sockets that had spun in the plastic and had to be replaced and glued into place (JB Weld).  I even had one in the chrome trim piece that covers the windshield bolts that stripped.  I had to use my Dremmel tool and but a slot in it to get it out, because the phillips head was stripped.

I don't know when it happened, but I found that my meter panel had some cracks one the left side and the right side had a chunk missing where the speaker panel attaches.  I got the part (5 in the pic) with the plastic bezel, the indicator surround, and the rubber water shield from Ron Ayers.  It was about $40 with shipping included.

Once you've gotten the fairing apart, it's a piece of cake to replace the headlight bulbs.  It's doing that when you don't want to disassemble the fairing that things get hairy.  As I found out this weekend, it's better not to remove the fairing, because I always seem to mess with a connection that I hadn't intended.  I need to get back into the left side and reconnect the turn signal that I apparently pulled apart while messing around in there.
As for the meter panel, mine cracked due to one of the lines from the right side handlebar control (can't remember whether it was a brake line, or an electrical line off the top of my head) pushing against it.  I zip-tied the offender to the handlebar a little lower down, and the problem never recurred.
Good call on the anti-sieze.  Those are a weak point in the design, and always seem to fail.

[Disco]

Thanks for the write-up, Hay.  She shore looks purdy.

[RainMaker]

Nice job - it looks sharp!

[godfire]

Very nice look.
How does it feel?

[HayHauler]

Very nice look.
How does it feel?

Cooler, as in more wind in my face and neck.  No, it's not just the 5 degree "cool" front we have been having that has taken us down to 95 in stead of 100...    I used to be able to ride at night without clear glasses, not any more, don't feel safe. 

It is a good idea for the summer in South Texas.  I will put on a regular clear, or slightly smoked, shield for the winter.  Might put it on sometime in November...  hehe 

Hay 
Jimmyt

[HayHauler]

I replaced the headlight using these instructions that can be found in the VRCC Shop Talk website.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/interstateheadlight.htm  Even with my big meat hooks, the replacement was pretty easy.  The easiest thing I did all day.

I had 3 of the little brass threaded sockets that had spun in the plastic and had to be replaced and glued into place (JB Weld).  I even had one in the chrome trim piece that covers the windshield bolts that stripped.  I had to use my Dremmel tool and but a slot in it to get it out, because the phillips head was stripped.

I don't know when it happened, but I found that my meter panel had some cracks one the left side and the right side had a chunk missing where the speaker panel attaches.  I got the part (5 in the pic) with the plastic bezel, the indicator surround, and the rubber water shield from Ron Ayers.  It was about $40 with shipping included.

Once you've gotten the fairing apart, it's a piece of cake to replace the headlight bulbs.  It's doing that when you don't want to disassemble the fairing that things get hairy.  As I found out this weekend, it's better not to remove the fairing, because I always seem to mess with a connection that I hadn't intended.  I need to get back into the left side and reconnect the turn signal that I apparently pulled apart while messing around in there.
As for the meter panel, mine cracked due to one of the lines from the right side handlebar control (can't remember whether it was a brake line, or an electrical line off the top of my head) pushing against it.  I zip-tied the offender to the handlebar a little lower down, and the problem never recurred.
Good call on the anti-sieze.  Those are a weak point in the design, and always seem to fail.

The only thing that might have made it easier for me is that I had removed the speaker panels.  This let me almost see the light socket, but not really!  I can replace them, with the link that I posted, without removing any panels.
I STILL am waiting on my dash lights to come in so I can replace them and get everything back to new condition again.

Oh, yea, I replaced my headlights with some Silverstars.  Tonight I replaced my H3 driving lights in the PODS with the same color (light wise) Silverstars.  My driving lights use a relay to drive them from a switch mounted in the left POD, so I went to the 55watt H3 bulb.  I had to mod the bulb slightly by following this guys post....
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,6592.0.html
Don't try this if your driving lights are not wired through a relay, the wiring might not survive, not to mention your start button...

Ride safe,
Hay 
Jimmyt

[cutter]

Thanks for the pics, I like the look. My shield is showing it's age and been thinking about getting a shorter one.