Starter Switch at the Handlebars Question ???

[Old Geezer Richard]

I have a 1998 Standard and the oem starter switch finally crapped out on me last weekend ... I was able to pick up another starter switch off a 1999 Interstate .... Now my question is , on my 98 starter switch wiring harness from the handlebar going into the Headlite Bucket , I noticed a blue/white stripe wire inside coming out of the soft rubber hose that plugs into another blue/white stripe wire that disappears into the back of the head lite bucket , but the Interstate switch wiring does not have that extra blue/white wire coming out of the rubber hose , just the male red plug .... So do I need that blue/white wire and what does it do ??  and will the Interstate starter switch inter-change with my Standard at all ??   Thanks the Geezer 

[sandy]

Before you get too involved, go to shoptalk and see how to fix the starter button. It's usually just dirt or carbon buildup on the contacts.

[gordonv]

The IS should be different than the Std/Tourer models, so you'll need to read the schematics and most likely figure that out yourself, or the help of someone who has actually done it themselves.

Good luck.

[Old Geezer Richard]

Thanks , Sandy but I already did the clean up two years ago when it capped out on me out in the Boonies .... Thank you all , I'll take a look see at the schematic diagram for both models .... Thanks the Geezer 

[RonW]

Perhaps, leave the stock harness and plugs in place. Pry off the stationary contact plate (black) from the old start button and reinsert it back onto the I/S start button of course after removing the same stationary contact plate from the I/S start button. The substrate for the stationary contact plate is polycarbonate and doesn't wear. Specifically, the contacts embedded in the polycarbonate don't sink into the polycarbonate material due to electrical heat softening the polycarbonate. Whereas heat causes the contacts on the movable half of the start button to sink into its nylon substrate. (There are 4 locking barbs molded on the edges of the stationary plate so make sure they're full seated in their mating slots.)

[Chrisj CMA]

I would take both switches apart make sure you have all good pieces and put the standard switch back together and put it back in the bike and you'll be fine

[John Schmidt]

Then add the relay that takes the load off the start switch and drops the headlight current through it to a fraction of an amp. Makes a huge difference in reliability.

[Gryphon Rider]

The blue/white wire sends power to your headlight high/low switch, which sends power to appropriate headlight filament.  When you push the starter button, it disconnects power to the headlight so more power is available to the starter.  On the Interstate the blue/white wire goes through the connector, while on the Standard/Tourer it is external to the connector.  There are some other things to consider with the connector when adapting an IS switch to a Std Valk, and you should study the schematics in a shop manual to get a clear understanding.  See the schematic below, with the Std/Tourer diagram on the left, and the Interstate diagram on the right (sorry for the quality).  I have actually purchased an Interstate switch for my Tourer to add a little throttle cable slack, so what I plan on doing is rewiring the harness to use the old connector from the Tourer.

[Old Geezer Richard]

Hey Gryphon Rider , according to Ron as I understand it , I might be able to just swap out the stationary contact plate from the old switch which the worn out part with the clam shell button unit from the I/S unit , if that's the way I'm understanding his post .... I'll be taking a look see if that's possible , I don't think I can re-condition the starter switch a 2nd time ??? ... Thanks the Geezer  

[Gryphon Rider]

Hey Gryphon Rider , according to Ron as I understand it , I might be able to just swap out the stationary contact plate from the old switch which the worn out part with the clam shell button unit from the I/S unit , if that's the way I'm understanding his post .... I'll be taking a look see if that's possible , I don't think I can re-condition the starter switch a 2nd time ??? ... Thanks the Geezer  

I haven't pulled it apart with that in mind yet, but it might be what I end up doing, too.  I won't be attempting for at least a few weeks, as I want to replace my cables at the same time, and I'm a little short of cash after time off and spending for InZane, so you can be the pioneer for this.  

[BobB]

To answer your original question, on a Tourer, the blue/white comes into the headlight bucket from the starter switch and connects to another blue/white leading to the hi/low beam switch.  From that switch, a separate blue wire and white wire leads back into the bucket and connects to the bulb. 

On an interstate, there is a relay in these circuits to handle the amperage load of the dual headlights.

[BigBad1]

To answer your original question, on a Tourer, the blue/white comes into the headlight bucket from the starter switch and connects to another blue/white leading to the hi/low beam switch.  From that switch, a separate blue wire and white wire leads back into the bucket and connects to the bulb. 

On an interstate, there is a relay in these circuits to handle the amperage load of the dual headlights.

+1

[roadmap]

follow this link

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

if you put a new switch on you really need to put a couple of relays in the in the headlight wiring harness. this is a must i did mine so long ago never had anymore trouble out of the switch
cleaning the contacts is only a temp fix

if the switch still is in good shape put these relays on nothing worse then out with your friends that drive harleys and you break down....... lol 

[Bone]

I already did the clean up two years ago when it capped out on me out in the Boonies

Can the Valk be jumped when the starter switch fails ?
 
I can do most electrical things with instructions

[The emperor has no clothes]

I already did the clean up two years ago when it capped out on me out in the Boonies

Can the Valk be jumped when the starter switch fails ?
 
I can do most electrical things with instructions

I don't think so (because the switch won't make contact letting the starter engage). But it can be push started. It helps if you have an incline.

[Bone]

Thanks with help I can do that, maybe.

[BobB]

I already did the clean up two years ago when it capped out on me out in the Boonies

Can the Valk be jumped when the starter switch fails ?
 
I can do most electrical things with instructions

The Valk can be started by shorting across the contacts of the starter relay.  Have done it.  Use a heavy wire or screwdriver...

[Bone]

Thanks BobB was hoping for a bypass of the switch.

I'll give that a try in the garage usually if I can fix it or carry a spare it doesn't break.

[Old Geezer Richard]

Hey Bone , while I was waiting on the I/S switch to show up , I had wired the two Allen head bolts on the starter relay with two thick gauge wires to a temp action toggle switch and it worked for a while until the contacts in the toggle switch over heated and quit working .... I know now that those cheap low amperage switches you get at the auto parts won't handle the high amps during the starting process .... You would have to use a high amp push button style switch that you use for a car , like race cars have their push button switch on the dash to start after you turn the key on  ... Just my .02 cents

[Old Geezer Richard]

Hey Bone , on Ebay what you need as a spare is called a Harley Mini Momentary Push Button Switch on Ebay for $11.00 ... I ordered one myself as a back up switch , it's  designed for starting for Chopper's ... It's a flat fit , chromed and comes wired .... I figure it beats using a screw driver or jumper wire in a pinch ....  Thanks the Geezer 

[Bone]

Thanks Geezer my start button just began acting up a little when this thread started. I haven't opened it up yet to check it's condition. I have put 100K on it without a problem. I like the push button / switch idea for a backup.

[gordonv]

I don't think so (because the switch won't make contact letting the starter engage). But it can be push started. It helps if you have an incline.

Try push starting your bike now while it's running good, before you need it.

I couldn't get mine to start unless it was already warmed up and I had a decent incline to roll down. Push starting with one person.

[Old Geezer Richard]

Well Boy's & Girl's,  the idea Mr. Ron had explained WORKED !!!! I cleaned up the contact surfaces and I swapped out the contact plate that has the push button from the I/S to the Tourer switch and it works like a Champ .... Mr. Gordonv thanks but no thanks for the push start idea , but I'll only push start it just to get my butt cheeeks home in a pinch , but not every time I wanna go riding , no way Jose .... Hey Bone , I mounted a push button switch as a Back up just in case this switch acts up again ....Thank you all for your help , Thanks the Geezer 

[Bone]

Glad you got her going again. I searched Ebay and didn't find the switch you bought  I'll try again.
We are the same age I want help with push starting to keep me from hurting myself.
Thanks for the update.

[Old Geezer Richard]

Hey Bone , if your starter switch is acting up , just do what Ron explained with a used switch unit or either replace the whole unit with a new unit , I went the cheaper way and found a used starter switch unit for $38 on Flea Bay with free shipping ..... While I waiting for the part to come in , I looked up on Flea bay just for the hell of it , push button switches , you can pick and choose the design and the way it mounts ..... I found three Harley Momentary push bush button switch's with different prices pop up , so I ordered the Harley Switch and when it came in , I was not impressed with it because it's was real small ... So I went out to Advance Auto Parts and found a push button switch designed for high amperage for starting car's that is all metal and has the center metal part not plastic with a small circular chrome lock ring , so you can  mount it on any flat surface and tighten it down ... I drilled out a small hole in the left engine hanger , pushed the switch thru and tightened it down and it's solid .... I connected the two thick gauge wires to the switch with connectors already crimped on at the other end , then I pushed the wires thru towards the other side cover with the connectors all taped up sitting on the other side ready to be used just in case .... But be sure the switch is for automobiles starters , because those POS Cheapy Plastic ones (I call door bell switches) in the auto parts are just for horns only ..... Thanks the Geezer  

[Bone]

Thanks for the info I'm going to get a switch. Rain all day yesterday so I took the start switch apart and cleaned the contacts.
Started like a new machine.

[Gryphon Rider]

So, I finally put in the Interstate throttle cable housing/kill switch/start button and wire harness assembly on my 2000 Tourer. The only modification needed to make the IS wiring work is to clip the bullet connector and a couple of inches of its blue/white wire off of the Tourer harness, clip the blue/white wire off of the IS harness connector, and solder on the bullet connector. The position in the connector that that wire takes on the IS connector is empty on the Tourer connector.

[Gryphon Rider]

The icon for this thread shows it locked. Is it really? This is a test.

[BigBad1]

Thanks for that update. My brother has a standard and purchased a interstate switch housing and wanted me to help him install it. Sounds easy enough.