Bled clutch, now no clutch

[Eagle 1]

The clutch on my 99 I/S was a bit spongy, so decided to bleed it. Using my bleeder tool and following all directions bled until all air was expelled (small amount), used Dot 4 (as recommended), made sure not to let reservoir run dry,  when fluid was absolutely clear locked off bleeder and was ready to give it a road test, guess what? no clutch, lever pulls through with no resistance. Can anyone give me some help as to what went wrong and/or what I can do to get my clutch back.

Thanks all
Eagle 1

[Gryphon Rider]

I have to ask the obvious question:  You squeezed it several times?

[Steve K (IA)]

Sounds like you may still have air in the line.

[Savago]

Eagle

I had an awful experience using a mittyvac in my vstrom (draining the brake fluid) in that the oil reservoir was leaking and as a result, it injected air into the system.

The brake lever would have no resistance, just like you described.

I was forced to pump the air bubbles out of the system squeezing the brake lever to exhaustion and next bleed it 3x times until all the little bubbles came out of the system.

The following day, I flushed the clutch in my I/S, but did it the old fashion way: squeeze the lever, open the drain valve just a little bit to start draining, close the valve, release the clutch.  It worked pretty well and no spongy-ness at all.


Savago

[Eagle 1]

Hey guys: thanks a lot for you rapid reply, I got it fixed by loosening the Banjo bolt and squeezing the lever, suddenly got the clutch back. now have developed a different problem by bleeding the clutch and brakes. Prior to doing the bleeding I was able to start the bike in gear as long as I pulled the clutch, which saved my bacon on several occasions including last evening, we were doing a group dinner ride and came to stop light that had a very steep uphill and a significant side angle to the right, I had a passenger and was hard put to hold the brake, clutch and balance the bike, I attempted to let the clutch out while releasing the brake but was not fast enough on the brake and the bike died, not a problem just pull the clutch and start it in gear and off we go, since loosing the ability to start it in gear I will need to pull the clutch, hold the brake, lean it to the right far enough to kick it out of gear, start it, kick it back in gear and try to get going again. Yes I have been in this situation before with a bike that did not start in gear, but not such a heavy one with a passenger. I do not know if all Interstates have this ability but would like to get it back for mine, anybody got an idea how this can be accomplished?

[DK]

I had the same situation last week. Just out of the blue, my Tourer would actuate the starter only if in neutral.

I loosened the contact switch that works against the clutch lever to see if it was adjustable & since it's not, I rinsed it down good with electrical contact cleaner while flipping it off & on reinstalled it. Works fine.

Dan

[Eagle 1]

Thanks Dan: did as you suggested and all is well in never never land once again.

Eagle 1

[Patrick]

Not sure what a 'bleeder tool' is. Mine is a hand and a wrench.   

[O-B-1]

Took a lot off lever action when I bled mine to get it all purged.

I was going at it like the "Rifleman"... 

[Thunderbolt]

You can tie the clutch/brake lever down to the bar overnight and that will let the air go to the reservoir and out.  Helped me once.  On the not starting with the clutch in, check the electrical/mechanical function of the clutch switch at the clutch lever.

[gwan2cruz]

I have no manual and trying to bleed the clutch, any pic of where the bleeder is?  I thought it was just above the alternator but after bleeding that I have no resistance at all.
Thanks in advance.

Gary

[The emperor has no clothes]

I have no manual and trying to bleed the clutch, any pic of where the bleeder is?  I thought it was just above the alternator but after bleeding that I have no resistance at all.
Thanks in advance.

Gary

Yes that's it. You probably have more air in it.

[Savago]

For a picture, check the second photo in:
https://goo.gl/photos/Wj8MNGBZ8Smpy3cg6

[falconbrother]

I always try to bleed uphill.  On my old Harleys over the years you could spend days trying to bleed downhill and never get any joy.  So, anytime I'm bleeding from a low point I reverse bleed.  It's quick and easy.  That is force new fluid from the low point to the high point in the system.  Do this on HD and it works fast and easy.  Air doesn't like to be forced downhill.  It loves to go uphill. 

I just have a little plastic bottle with a piece of hose attached to the nozzle.  I fill it about half way, attach the hose, loosen the bleeder and squeeze it like it owes me money. 

[oldsmokey]

If I remember correctly, my wing gave me aggravation, read somewhere to turn handle bars to the right, end of story. That was also on its center stand.

[gwan2cruz]

Thanks for the photo, I did bleed the right one, so I must have more air in there somewhere.  I have a vacuum type bleeder so I guess I will have to try it some more.
Thanks again.

Gary

[Chrisj CMA]

When stopped facing uphill, the proper move is to use the rear brake to hold the bike. When it's time to go you start off with a little extra throttle and feather the clutch. When you feel it start to pull release the rear brake and it's good to go.

[Jruby38]

Had air in mine too. You ha have to bleed the system up from the bottom up from the slave cylinder with a syringe and tight line over the bleeder. Go slow and easy.  You will see tiny air bubbles come up in the master cylinder.

[Scouser]

Good afternoon Gents, after reading all this thread and lots of others, I still have no resistance on my clutch lever. I ve bled it the traditional way, opening and closing the nipple, bought a one way valve bleed tool and bled it for 3hrs today pumping lots of air bubbles out until I got good clear fluid, but still no resistance. Cracked the master banjo as suggested and got fluid squirting out there. Cracked bottom banjo on slave cylinder, got fluid there so after pumping the lever for 3 hrs as I said above still no resistance. What can I do next? At any stage I did not let the master cylinder run too low. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thx

[Gryphon Rider]

Good afternoon Gents, after reading all this thread and lots of others, I still have no resistance on my clutch lever. I ve bled it the traditional way, opening and closing the nipple, bought a one way valve bleed tool and bled it for 3hrs today pumping lots of air bubbles out until I got good clear fluid, but still no resistance. Cracked the master banjo as suggested and got fluid squirting out there. Cracked bottom banjo on slave cylinder, got fluid there so after pumping the lever for 3 hrs as I said above still no resistance. What can I do next? At any stage I did not let the master cylinder run too low. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thx

What is the story behind this problem, i.e., was the clutch working fine until you decided to change the clutch fluid, or has the bike been sitting for several years before you inherited it and decided to get it going, or what?  Where are you, that a local-to-you member might be able to swing by and give you a hand?

[indybobm]

Just as a FYI, be sure to close the bleed valve before you release the lever, otherwise it can suck air back in.

[Jruby38]

I have same problem. I had to bleed from the bottom up to get the clutch back.  Use a horse syringe with tubing over the bottom slave cylinder bleeder. Take top fill cover off and push dot 4 in SLOW SLOW. You will see tiny air bubbles surface up in the clutch reservoir.

[9Ball]

I have same problem. I had to bleed from the bottom up to get the clutch back.  Use a horse syringe with tubing over the bottom slave cylinder bleeder. Take top fill cover off and push dot 4 in SLOW SLOW. You will see tiny air bubbles surface up in the clutch reservoir.

This is a good way to remove trapped air bubbles for both brake and clutch fluids.

Word of caution...make sure the master cylinder is drained enough so you don’t overflow brake fluid all over your bike from the master cylinder reservoir.

Also, I am a fan of speedbleeders for making fluid changes no mess and a one person job.  Don’t forget to order the bladder bag and tubing to catch the old fluid...no leaks, no mess.  I also have a mity vac for wetting and initial filling brake lines (using standard bleed nipples ) with fresh brake fluid, then install the speedbleeders to finish the job.  Once this is done then the mity vac isn’t needed and speedbleeders will handle future fluid changes.  Synpower DOT 3/4 is my fluid of choice.  I change all fluids yearly whether they need it or not.

I install speedbleeders on all my bikes and also my friends new bikes at periodic wrench parties.

[gordonv]

I was also thinking to tie down the lever over night.

[mello dude]

Also, I am a fan of speedbleeders for making fluid changes no mess and a one person job.  Don’t forget to order the bladder bag and tubing to catch the old fluid...no leaks, no mess.  I also have a mity vac for wetting and initial filling brake lines (using standard bleed nipples ) with fresh brake fluid, then install the speedbleeders to finish the job.  Once this is done then the mity vac isn’t needed and speedbleeders will handle future fluid changes.  Synpower DOT 3/4 is my fluid of choice.  I change all fluids yearly whether they need it or not.

I install speedbleeders on all my bikes and also my friends new bikes at periodic wrench parties.

I'll say ditto to all 9Balls post.

[Scouser]

Thanks Gents for info. I'm in Leicestershire UK so no local help Gryph, it all started when I just went to top the fluid up on the clutch. I use the bike weekly and had no problems with clutch. Got the bike out on Tuesday, cleaned air filter and spark plugs and checked gap. Started her up on the drive, all fine, pulled in clutch lever and no resistance straight back to the handle bars? Doh! Opened master cylinder and it was a bit dirty and cruddy so sucked that out and put fresh dot 4 in and started the std. bleeding procedure. See yesterdays post above. I tied the lever down last night to see if any air made its way out as suggested in previous post, still no joy and no clutch operation. Today Im going to try bleeding again with the one man bleed tool and will report back. Thanks for everyone's replies so far. Its a great forum for a great bike.

[steveB (VRCC UK)]

"Thanks Gents for info. I'm in Leicestershire UK so no local help"
Try VRCC UK we've only been in existence for 20 years. (Our website is underused try our FaceBook pages  - includes a for sale page)  Members all over the UK, one of us can probably help.
Are you sure seals are good in both the master and slave cylinders ? Recently replaced a slave cyl on a GoldWing with similar probs.

[nogrey]

I started using this brake bleeding kit awhile back and it has really worked well for me. It has a fill bottle and a capture reservoir for old fluid. Once connected you just open the bleed valve and pump the clutch (or brake) lever until clear fluid is seen dumping into the drain reservoir. There is never an opportunity with this device to introduce air into the system. The fill reservoir comes with several adapters and one of them fits nicely into the clutch or brake cylinder.

8milelake Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Tool with 4 Master Cylinder Adapters 90-120 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013WKCKW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qyCmDb1RSF94P

[mello dude]

I started using this brake bleeding kit awhile back and it has really worked well for me. It has a fill bottle and a capture reservoir for old fluid. Once connected you just open the bleed valve and pump the clutch (or brake) lever until clear fluid is seen dumping into the drain reservoir. There is never an opportunity with this device to introduce air into the system. The fill reservoir comes with several adapters and one of them fits nicely into the clutch or brake cylinder.

8milelake Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Tool with 4 Master Cylinder Adapters 90-120 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013WKCKW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qyCmDb1RSF94P

Thanks for the tip - great price on that equipment!

[h13man]

I use gravity bleed thus making sure the reservoir never gets low enough to let air in. Using a clear hose over the bleed nipple to drain until fluid runs clear, tighten bleeder, pump up at lever, and bleed but never letting lever to bottom out. Basically "pop" open and close quickly. Might need momma's assistance but has worked perfectly over the years. Yes this isn't the quickest but has never failed.

[Fixjet]

Install Speedbleeders and I swear you will never bleed brakes or your clutch by vacuum or gravity again.  I have them on my bike and installed them on my longbed crew cab when I changed the brake lines, those lines are long....... but bleed so easy.  Add the bladder bag also, it has the best bleeder hose I have ever used, it never pops off.   

[nogrey]

Install Speedbleeders and I swear you will never bleed brakes or your clutch by vacuum or gravity again.  I have them on my bike and installed them on my longbed crew cab when I changed the brake lines, those lines are long....... but bleed so easy.  Add the bladder bag also, it has the best bleeder hose I have ever used, it never pops off.   

I installed speed bleeders on one bike. They worked just fine, but honestly, once you use the bleed tool I mention above, you’ll never do it any other way. For the price of just 2 speed bleeders you’re good to go for all your vehicles.

[Ricky-D]

I wish there were a YouTube video that showed the operation of the bleed tool.

I'm reluctant to purchase the tool without seeing how it works.

***

[nogrey]

I wish there were a YouTube video that showed the operation of the bleed tool.

I'm reluctant to purchase the tool without seeing how it works.

***

I mis-spoke. It has been a few months since I did mine. This kit I mention requires an air compressor. I was blown away how quick and easy it was but forgot about the compressor part. No pumping brakes of clutch at all. Here is a video that shows a kit with dual ports (mine only does a single port/time), and they don’t have a feed reservoir like mine does, but this is how they work: https://youtu.be/6FTTWwsitlc

[Steve K (IA)]

Install Speedbleeders and I swear you will never bleed brakes or your clutch by vacuum or gravity again.  I have them on my bike and installed them on my longbed crew cab when I changed the brake lines, those lines are long....... but bleed so easy.  Add the bladder bag also, it has the best bleeder hose I have ever used, it never pops off.   

Speed Bleeders are the ONLY way to go.  Yes, get the bag. 

[3fan4life]

I bought this one at Harbor Freight:



https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html


It works like a charm!

[RonW]

Add the bladder bag also, it has the best bleeder hose I have ever used, it never pops off.   

Yes, get the bag. 

Absolutely, get the bag!

I bought a bunch of bags, but you could reuse them if you like.

[RonW]

I wish there were a YouTube video that showed the operation of the bleed tool.

I'm reluctant to purchase the tool without seeing how it works.

The YouTube videos focus only on installing the Speedbleeder. Probably, because bleeding is done almost the same way with a wrench. The difference is that you just stand by the brake lever and keep filling the reservoir so it doesn't run dry. Where with the wrench method, it was crucial to re-tighten the bleeder zerk before releasing the brake lever, there's no re-tightening the nipple with the Speedbleeder. When you release the brake lever, a one-way valve keeps air from seeping back into the bleeder nipple. So, it's not necessary to run around the bike to retighten the nipple or have a second person. If you don't plan on permanently replacing the oem nipple, than the Speedbleeder with the longer spout makes a securer connection with a bleeder tube. Or, you could snip off the end of the bleeder tube when the end develops a flare. Not sure, but the clutch bleeder might need the Speedbleeder 'LL' (below) otherwise it might not seat. Only Goldwings are listed on the original Speedbleeder website ..... GL1500.

[mello dude]

I like to use a small vacuum spring clamp on the plastic hose to keep it from falling off.... Also if possible to use the SB8125L, I will go for that, because of the slightly longer nozzle to grip on.

I will never even plan a bleed job without having the speedbleeders on hand to install.

That said, I am definitely a tool gadget junkie foole... and gotta try out a vacuum or a power pressure bleed it tool next go around. Possibly more toys to foole with   
 Still in bike build it mode and  system is dead dry...

[SPOFF]

On the clutch switch, just replace the damn thing. It's $12 and Partzilla will get it to your door in 48 hours. I've been replacing all the safety switches while they are still available.