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Author Topic: Puting swingarm Ujoint back in  (Read 1230 times)
Boatnut
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Posts: 16


« on: July 04, 2015, 09:01:59 AM »

  I've fought all morning to get this thing back together any one got some tips that makes it easy?
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davit
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Deerfield, WI


« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2015, 10:13:07 AM »

Well, it's easy to get off. Grin

I did mine this morning as well.  I feel your pain.  It's best to do a search, that way you're armed with lots of advice (some good some bad).  I usually Google the issue and add the word "Valkyrie", it'll typically lead back here.
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davit
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Posts: 261


Deerfield, WI


« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2015, 10:16:29 AM »

Actually I do have some advice:  go easy and don't use any sharp instruments or you'll tear the boot and be screwed.
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2015, 10:26:00 AM »

What are you having trouble with ? The swing arm or the u-joint or both ?
I'm not sure what the problem can be, but, it seems easier if the swing arm is level/horizontal which also makes the boot easier to install.
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #4 on: July 04, 2015, 10:32:11 AM »

Is there a proper direction to have the u-joint pointing (front-back/long-short)?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2015, 10:59:41 AM »

If my rememberer is working correctly, it only goes one way.
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sandy
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Posts: 5388


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2015, 11:51:45 AM »

Yes Patrick: It only fits one way. The splines are different front to back: grease the trans output shaft with 3% moly grease. I use Valvoline Durablend.   Slide the joint into the sw/arm and insert it onto the shaft. Now the tricky part: I usually put the boot on the engine and work the rear onto the swingarm. Some folks do the opposite and roll the boot back before joint insertion. I've heard of silicone grease helping this along. Using small fingers or long needlenose, : after this statement is the fun part. Put the boot on. Have fun.
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Boatnut
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Posts: 16


« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2015, 12:30:34 PM »

Found a link to some directions I was going at it wrong and the part pic shows the ujoint wrong bassacwards.
    Gave it up for today humity and temp is playing leapfrog that is they are swaping the lead.73 Patrick
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2015, 12:55:24 PM »

I got the swingarm level, then used a broom handle to slide the Ujoint up, gently wiggling the handle and the swingarm a bit and in she went.

Similar to intercourse in a dark room.  Cool
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15224


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2015, 02:13:19 PM »

Geez Jess, I've never thought of using a broom handle during sex. Exactly how does that work anyway?  Evil 2funny
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Boatnut
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Posts: 16


« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2015, 02:21:27 PM »

well swingarm is in as well as u joint took the u joint back  out the drive shaft gos in the ujoint ok  but can't get it to start with the ujoint in place,any good info.or tips?
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Boatnut
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« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2015, 02:25:03 PM »

     Broom handle for sex takes a large gal,now back to the swingarm etc.
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #12 on: July 04, 2015, 02:37:10 PM »

The key word was similar John.   Smiley

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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #13 on: July 04, 2015, 03:13:10 PM »

Broom handles are popular in prisons.
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Daniel Meyer
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Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #14 on: July 04, 2015, 04:01:10 PM »

To get the driveshaft into the ujoint, stick rear end in, raise the swing arm up as high as you can, and wiggle the crap out of it.

Should go home in seconds. If the rear end goes in, it has to be in the joint. No room to miss.

This procedure also works for sex, but I'm pretty sure you were wanting to get the Valk back together.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Boatnut
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Posts: 16


« Reply #15 on: July 04, 2015, 06:17:21 PM »

           At  last its together took a 3/8 30" ext. and lifted the ujoint up and a 3/8wood dowel to hold it up until I got the driveshaft started pressing in and turning it until it indexed with the ujoint then a light tap with a small hammer sent it home.
       I hope this ujoint will last longer than the one it replaced (60,000 mi)thanks all.   73 Patrick
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Bigwolf
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Posts: 1502


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #16 on: July 04, 2015, 10:13:42 PM »

Boatnut,
your last post has me thinking you put the shaft in and then put rear end on.   crazy2
If you put the drive shaft in the swing arm and U-joint and then put the rear end on the swing arm, I think you might have a problem.  That is a good way to tear the seal on the drive shaft at the pinion cup.  If that seal gets damaged, you will be buying a new shaft and pinion cup very soon.

The shaft should be installed in the pinion cup on the rear end first and then inserted into the swing arm.  Only this way can you see that the seal is going straight into the cup and not getting torn on the side of the cup.

Bigwolf
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14779


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2015, 05:51:04 AM »

Boatnut,
your last post has me thinking you put the shaft in and then put rear end on.   crazy2
If you put the drive shaft in the swing arm and U-joint and then put the rear end on the swing arm, I think you might have a problem.  That is a good way to tear the seal on the drive shaft at the pinion cup.  If that seal gets damaged, you will be buying a new shaft and pinion cup very soon.

The shaft should be installed in the pinion cup on the rear end first and then inserted into the swing arm.  Only this way can you see that the seal is going straight into the cup and not getting torn on the side of the cup.

Bigwolf

Yes, what he said..also I hope you had a strap on that swingarm before adding the weight of the wheel

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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15224


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2015, 06:01:33 AM »

And next time, keep in mind you don't have to remove the swingarm to pull the u-joint.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html
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Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5493


Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


WWW
« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2015, 06:52:58 AM »

Boatnut,
your last post has me thinking you put the shaft in and then put rear end on.   crazy2
If you put the drive shaft in the swing arm and U-joint and then put the rear end on the swing arm, I think you might have a problem.  That is a good way to tear the seal on the drive shaft at the pinion cup.  If that seal gets damaged, you will be buying a new shaft and pinion cup very soon.

The shaft should be installed in the pinion cup on the rear end first and then inserted into the swing arm.  Only this way can you see that the seal is going straight into the cup and not getting torn on the side of the cup.

Bigwolf

What he said...if you installed the shaft in the swing arm and then put the rear end on, you probably should redo it. Likely the pinion cup seal is out of place. I demo this at inzane every year...if you stick the shaft in the rear end and then follow the instruction I put (above somewhere) it goes home on seconds...every time. No broomsticks. No playing around.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
mustang071965
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Posts: 165


those that dare, Succeed.

monticello Ar


« Reply #20 on: July 06, 2015, 08:58:41 AM »

was the swing arm bearings bad? cause it is not needed to remove the swing arm to replace the u joint. did mine last year.
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Boatnut
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Posts: 16


« Reply #21 on: July 06, 2015, 01:21:10 PM »

                     
I pulled the swingarm befor I knew better,thought I could stab ujoint and then swingarm pivot bolts
I was wrong.
     What sort of life are you getting out of ujoints? 60,000 seems rather short.   73 Patrick
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14779


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #22 on: July 06, 2015, 02:45:29 PM »

60K would be normal for a very heavily used one or one that was over stressed by abuse or poor Assembly/disassembly technique
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mustang071965
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Posts: 165


those that dare, Succeed.

monticello Ar


« Reply #23 on: July 06, 2015, 05:30:06 PM »

The one I replaced was from prev owner. I got the bike with 29,000 on it. Replaced it last year at 65,000. Due to it going south on me. Got 15,000 on the new one now. So far so good.
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Boatnut
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Posts: 16


« Reply #24 on: July 07, 2015, 06:35:35 AM »

             My right wrist likes to drop down takeing the twist grip with it LOL I have a 78 with a 77 engine in a Gw custom that will get up to 75mph from my job to a overpass,the Valk gits up to 90.
                    73 Patrick
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