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Momz
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« on: July 25, 2015, 09:17:59 AM » |
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After having a hard time getting the rear fender mounted while trying to get the "square nuts" into the nut cages and installing the fender/strut screws,.....well it was frustrating.
Many people have simply cut off the nut cages, and it does make the job a bit easier, but it is still difficult. I have done the nut cage cut on several Valks but I felt that there had to be a better way. After some thought I came up with a better solution.
My solution was to put RTV silicon on the nut cages and insert the square nuts, add a bit more RTV a bit more on the open ends of the nut cages to hold the nuts in. I then inserted the mounting screws and tightened them down so as to align and hold the nuts to the fender, then set it aside to dry thoroughly.
Installation was made easier by loosening the fender struts at the shock absorber and the larger strut screws. Doing it this way makes the job far less frustrating and there is no reason to modify/cut the nut cages.
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 ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2015, 09:23:22 AM » |
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George, the only reason I did it was so I could make a "quick drop" kit for the saddlebags. With that system you have to run that rear bolt from the inside out, can't do that with the cage in place. Your method sounds good if no bags are involved or the rider doesn't have quick drop on his bike.  |
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Momz
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2015, 10:21:30 AM » |
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John,
I used this method on my Interstate (bags) and it also has the "Rattlebars Bag Drop Kit".
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ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2015, 06:20:01 AM » |
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People usually cut off the nut cages to prevent their car tires from rubbing on them, not to get easier access to the nuts.
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Dusty
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2015, 04:30:46 PM » |
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Another tip is to grind a taper on the first 2 or 3 threads on the bolts. The tapered part of the bolt will help to line up the two pieces of fender and the nut. Works like a charm. Just apply some pressure on the bolt head as you turn it. Dusty |
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Icelander
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« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2015, 08:55:03 AM » |
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I like the idea of using an adhesive of some sort to hold the nut but I would not use RTV.
RTV is "hydrophobic" meaning that it repels water, it however is not concerned where it puts that water. If any moisture gets on/in the RTV it will push it wherever it can, including against the fender and the nut, and hold it there for an extended period of time.
I learned this from an auto-glass installer when he pulled the rear window of my '71 Chevelle so that I could repair all the rot to the window channel. His words were, "Never use RTV/Silicone caulk on metal, it will encourage rot."
Just my $.02. Hope you find it helpful.
Icelander
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1998 Valkyrie Tourer.
VRCC Member #36337
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westnek
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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2015, 02:29:52 PM » |
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hi folks I have soft bags on a standaed valk I will reach up the rear fender with a small magnet to align the nut then start the bolt,, seems to work good, also just lately I removed bolts and used threaded stock, I inserted the stock into the nut,then slipped bags over threaded stock and held the bags on with nuts= don't have to remove bolts any more, just undo the nuts inside the bags and bags are off, the threaded stock is still through fender-take care ride safe all
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