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msb
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« on: August 19, 2015, 10:43:44 PM » |
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Looking for advice on further preventative maintenance / part replacement I can do on my 99 Interstate (rather than waiting for something to fail and have to deal with it on the go). It's ridden year round, mostly 2 up about 12k a year now, with just over 80k on the odometer. To date I've done the following: - replaced water pump (required) - replaced fork seals (required) - replaced rear shocks (supposed upgrade) - replaced front and rear wheel bearings (preventative) - replaced drive cush gear (preventative) - replaced headlight bulbs (preventative) - replacing petcock next week (preventative - after listening to Daniel Myer's warnings at his tech session at Inzane this year) - all regular maintenance performed since new...no real issues at present as far as I can tell Any advice from those more experienced mechanically than I will be greatly appreciated. My long time tech at local dealer is no longer there...now just a bunch of young'ns who comment on how "old" the girl is whenever I bring her in  Thx |
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Mike
'99 Red & Black IS
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2015, 03:17:02 AM » |
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I didn't see any mention of fluids, brake- clutch- coolant
Also, rear drive splines, pinion cup cleaning/greasing, final drive oil
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Momz
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« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2015, 04:05:06 AM » |
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Replaced the water pump? (At less than 100K miles?)
Was it not functioning?
Never heard of a pump failure yet. Although I know that there have been O-ring failures in the coolant tubes.
Replacing non-functioning assemblies is not Preventative Maintenance,......it's called Corrective Maintenance.
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« Last Edit: August 20, 2015, 04:15:55 AM by Momz »
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 ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
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Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
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« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2015, 04:49:54 AM » |
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Considering the age of the old girl, I wouldn't let the timing belts go past 100k. When inspecting timing belts, they almost always look good and then they break without warning. It's an easy job and not expensive. You may want to change the tension pulleys for the belts while you are there. The Valk engine is an Interference Engine, so if the belts break you may end up with bent valves and a really big job.
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 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
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98valk
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« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2015, 07:03:34 AM » |
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Considering the age of the old girl, I wouldn't let the timing belts go past 100k. When inspecting timing belts, they almost always look good and then they break without warning. please provide documentation of this happening to GL1500 Goldwings and Valkyries. Honda does not state "AGE" as a factor for belt replacement only wear conditions for their Flagship GL1500 Goldwing models. same for the Valkyrie GL1500 engines. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2015, 07:42:43 AM » |
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Well you said "all regular maintenance," so I assume that would cover oil changes, air filter, coolant flush, brakes, etc. If those things have been done at regular intervals you should be fine, but I would echo the thing about changing timing belts just because of the mileage on your bike. And i'm too lazy to scroll back up and read your post again, but how's your battery? I just replaced mine because I didn't know the age of the one that was in there when I bought the bike.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2015, 08:09:29 AM » |
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Oh yeah, I'll add doing the starter button maintenance – a real pain in the butt your first time – but apparently a necessary thing for these bikes. Do a search about it and see the shoptalk pages.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2015, 08:32:27 AM » |
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Metal valve stems.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #8 on: August 20, 2015, 08:42:50 AM » |
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Considering the age of the old girl, I wouldn't let the timing belts go past 100k. When inspecting timing belts, they almost always look good and then they break without warning. It's an easy job and not expensive. You may want to change the tension pulleys for the belts while you are there.
Ahem...mmm...I agree with CA; please provide GL1500 examples of this; I'll be very surprised if you can produce any. |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #9 on: August 20, 2015, 08:45:11 AM » |
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Metal valve stems.
I'm pretty sure we're talking metal tire valve stems here, just to be clear. |
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Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
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« Reply #10 on: August 20, 2015, 09:04:27 AM » |
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OK, for you guys that want documentation about AGE being a factor for timing belt replacement, you're right, I can't produce any. Just because Honda doesn't state AGE as a factor, doesn't mean it is not a factor. I doubt you can produce documentation that it is not a factor.
I own an auto repair shop and have lots of cars being towed in with broken timing belts. Some of the belts are well past their mileage limit and some are not. Might be that AGE is involved. Timing belts are made from a rubber compound and rubber dries out with AGE and heat.
You can think the way you want, but for me, I like to prevent problems before they become problems.
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Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
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msb
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« Reply #11 on: August 20, 2015, 12:48:13 PM » |
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Thanks to all for the responses, very much appreciated. - changing of all fluids, greasing, brakes, etc. has been performed as required since new - water pump was making a racket, so it was replaced - can hear and "feel" a little something at idle, thought it may be loose timing belts...probably will get in there to check and service/replace before next long ride - tire valve stems & starter button...can and will do - battery replaced several years ago I'm not a great mechanic by any means but I like to ensure the old girl's kept in top shape as it'll be my main ride for a few more years at least, as I haven't seen anything out there yet I'd be 100% happy replacing it with. Cheers  |
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Mike
'99 Red & Black IS
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #13 on: August 20, 2015, 06:43:31 PM » |
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Mike, are you doing the work yourself, or paying the dealer? I'm not sure from your post.
Post a wrench party, I'll do my best to drop by and wrangle Paul into coming too.
My biggest concern is whoever is doing your rear wheel, that they are actually lubing the splines and pinion cup.
Timing belt is up to you, and how comfortable you are. Mine was replaced last year at 61K on my 88' GW. Figured it should be done.
How about your alternator? I would be looking at cleaning the brushes or replacing them. I've got one spare set, bought 3 pairs, for Paul and myself to replace ours.
I know how much you ride, you did mention maintenance, but how about the little things? A volt meter, or a USB port to charge your toys?
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #14 on: August 21, 2015, 12:34:41 PM » |
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+1 on the alternator. If the brushes have never been changed, they are about done.
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« Last Edit: August 21, 2015, 12:37:31 PM by Chrisj CMA »
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Steve-L
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« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2015, 01:53:09 PM » |
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Can alternaator brushes be purchased still through Honda? Or is there a orm equivalent available?
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Tailgate Tommy
Member
Posts: 1438
2000 Interstate, 2001 Interstate and 2003 Standard
Fort Collins, Colorado
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« Reply #16 on: August 21, 2015, 03:47:53 PM » |
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From a couple of old posts -I have not personally verified this info. So YMMV. Alternator brushes Ron Ayers shows them for about $3 each. http://www.ronayers.com/Search.aspx?k=31101-MN5-005This was posted awhile ago. I personally have not verified the Napa #. OEM is correct #. 1500 wing alternator Napa # ECH E480 2 - $4.49 OEM w/spring 31101-MN5-005 - $2.73 ea |
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Icelander
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« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2015, 07:53:29 AM » |
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1998 Valkyrie Tourer.
VRCC Member #36337
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Valkorado
Member
Posts: 10499
VRCC DS 0242
Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.
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« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2015, 08:49:53 AM » |
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You might want to also slap in an accessory fuse block, especially if you use 12v plug-ins like heated gear, etc. Less chance of frying a switch or main fuse. Some guys hardwire them in, I just got the Kuryakyn one that is a direct hookup to the battery. http://cycleplicity.com/products/115495-kuryakyn_2208_accessory_fused_terminals.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=115495NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GSNOFITMENT&adtype=pla&kw=&utm_term=&adpos=1o3&network=g&gclid=COSSvZmJvccCFQuMaQodrW8PFAI also went to LED headlight, taillight and spots for less draw all around (and better visibility), which is also easier on the switches and starter button and draws less pull on alternator. Battery Bug or voltmeter can help you keep an eye on your electrical system. |
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« Last Edit: August 22, 2015, 09:15:41 AM by Valkorado »
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good, there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood? - John Prine 97 Tourer "Silver Bullet" 01 Interstate "Ruby"  |
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #19 on: August 22, 2015, 09:56:48 AM » |
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Ditto on this stuff. If you don't use LED's to lower the draw, then install relays for the headlight (and spots, especially if you use the blue-wh line to the hi-lo sw or the white or blue lines out of the hi-lo sw to power the spots - you would use any of these lines so the spots go off while cranking (same as the headlight)). Trigger the relays for the headlight from the wires that now go to the bulbs. This only applies to std or tourers, I'm pretty sure Interstates have relays powering the headlights. (Except the spots, use relays for them.) |
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #20 on: August 22, 2015, 12:43:04 PM » |
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Battery Bug or voltmeter can help you keep an eye on your electrical system.
I'm removing my battery bug and replacing with one of those LED volt displays. I placed the bug on my shelter, too flat and hard to read while driving, not lite. The display should go on top of the dash, like the IS, and is a LED instead of crystal display. The one I bought also has outside temp. Just waiting for it to be delivered from HK. |
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1999 Black with custom paint IS |
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